Duo-Phase (Mutron Bi-Phase-ish)

[Coda]

You probably have counterfeit 4k7s…

 

[MichaelW]

It's basically a countersink. I drill a 2.5mm pilot hole for all holes in the enclosure, then for the LEDs I use the step bit from the inside of the enclosure and make a countersink until the LED pokes out the right amount.

You can go from slight bump to full nipple doing it this way. I like slight bump, I have an unnecessary paranoia that I'll stomp on the LED for some reason.

Yah it won’t do to be stomping on nipples….unless she likes that sort of thing…..

 

[szukalski]

Since when did bezels go out of fashion?…

Awww, let us try and save some money and time on builds.

Bezels don't grow on trees!

 

[Locrian99]

Hey curious what ldr’s did you use here?

 

[MichaelW]

Hey curious what ldr’s did you use here?

I used the KE-10720's from Tayda, but I bet GL5516's or 5528's would work too.

 

[Locrian99]

I used the KE-10720's from Tayda, but I bet GL5516's or 5528's would work too.

Awesome got plenty of the 16’s and 28’s. Now if Robert would get some boards in

Is the 4 jack set up the way to go?

 

[MichaelW]

Awesome got plenty of the 16’s and 28’s. Now if Robert would get some boards in

Is the 4 jack set up the way to go?

I did it for the "It's there so therefore I want to build it" but honestly can't see ever using it. I mean the flexibility is cool but unless you already have a stereo rig I don't see a lot of use for two separate phasers. The thrill of the pedal for me is running it as a giant phaser in series with 8 stages....

 

[Robert]

Now if Robert would get some boards in

They're on the way.

The thrill of the pedal for me is running it as a giant phaser in series with 8 stages....

But but but..... imagine an 8 stage phaser with another effect inserted right smack in the middle....

Phaser before or after fuzz?
Yes.

 

[danfrank]

To the OP... Second jack from the left in your pic needs to be mono switched, NOT TRS... TRS will just ground out either the "B" input or "A" output, depending on how you wired the jack.
You need one of these:

Attach output "A" to the "switch" lug, "B" input to "tip" lug...
Hope this helps...

EDIT: OK, I may be late to this one! I saw your other post that says "solved"... Sorry for the redundancy!

 

[MichaelW]

To the OP... Second jack from the left in your pic needs to be mono switched, NOT TRS... TRS will just ground out either the "B" input or "A" output, depending on how you wired the jack.
You need one of these:
View attachment 36334
Attach output "A" to the "switch" lug, "B" input to "tip" lug...
Hope this helps...

EDIT: OK, I may be late to this one! I saw your other post that says "solved"... Sorry for the redundancy!

Yup, figured that out, it was a face-palm moment. Swapped it for a true switching jack. Thanks anyway!!

 

[BGroen]

Hi,
What power do you use? I am experience some noise (affected by LFO) with 9V. When I hook up a 12 V adapter the noise is gone.
Do you experience something similar?

 

[MichaelW]

Hi,
What power do you use? I am experience some noise (affected by LFO) with 9V. When I hook up a 12 V adapter the noise is gone.
Do you experience something similar?

I have only used 9v from my pedal power supply, I have not had any power related issues.

 

[BGroen]

Thanks for the quick response.
Well from the active components the TC1044SCPA has the lowest maximum input voltage of 12V, so using 12V from components view is OK. The noise is low, but it is definitely a clear improvement with 12 V.