Effects Layouts Odd One Out

Laundryroom David

Keyboard Cowboy 🤠
I’m troubleshooting a couple of recent builds of this one that have the exact same issue.

Has anyone else built this per the BOM?


If so, does anyone else get a loud hum when both the “bottom” and “edge” switches are engaged and gain is up past about 11 o’clock?

At full gain the hum sounds like an F (like 3rd fret on the D string).

Turning guitar volume down to zero has no effect, nor does running a buffer before or after the pedal. Turning the gain down on the pedal causes the pitch of the hum to go up a few steps and then cease once the gain knob is down to about 11 o’clock. Disengaging either tone switch (or both) ends the hum even with the gain dimed.

In other words, in stock OD-1 mode, it’s not an issue. In Fulltender mode with gain above 11 o’clock and both tone switches engaged, hum-a-palooza.

I cannot remember the last time I had to troubleshoot a build so extensively. I have inspected, tested, reflowed. Buffer in front, buffer behind, no other pedals in the chain, other pedals in the chain, different power supplies (Boss 9v, PP2+). I separated the input and output wires and isolated them as much as possible. Still no love.

Nothing gets rid of the hum and this is by no means a high gain pedal. My original Fulltender did not hum even with the gain maxed out and both tone toggles engaged.

I am wondering if there’s a problem with parts talking to each other through the rails or maybe some kind of feedback loop getting out of hand. I am (as I often say) not an engineer, nor do I even play one on tv so I don’t know if that even makes sense.

The closest thing I can liken this problem to is the way the havoc switch affects the sound of the Cannon Fodder MkI. Hence my musings about the feedback loop.

I am down the rabbit hole, tucking 47pF caps places in hopes it helps. I dunno man. Getting dark in here. Any help appreciated.
 
If you have the problem, then it strongly suggests that there is an issue with the board.
Yeah and I am hoping it doesn't have a problem or I'm going to have to learn how to design and have my own PCBs made because I'm really looking forward to completing this one. I just tested both options for Edge and Bottom and they both sound good so I'll be building it with those intact.
 
PM storyboardist over of mbp forum. Maybe they can help out. At least knowing it may have an issue, I'm sure sotryboardist would look into it.
Question, I haven't looked at the build doc. Was it designed with the intent of engaging both switches?

@jjjimi84 has a build report with switches over there...
Didn't mention issues, at a glance.
But also.mentions keeping gain below 9
 
PM storyboardist over of mbp forum. Maybe they can help out. At least knowing it may have an issue, I'm sure sotryboardist would look into it.
Question, I haven't looked at the build doc. Was it designed with the intent of engaging both switches?

@jjjimi84 has a build report with switches over there...
Didn't mention issues, at a glance.
But also.mentions keeping gain below 9

Fulltender could run with both switches engaged and gain at max, fwiw. I am not feeling super motivated to stay down this particular rabbit hole, but maybe one of the other good folks here does. Thanks for the info.
 
I'm still playing around with the breadboard and found that I like LEDs instead of the diodes. I took out the 3 asymmetrical diodes and put in 2 LEDs. Sounded better to me. The gain pot worked better because I had more usable gain throughout the sweep of the pot. This things gets distorted quick with just barely cranking the pot up.

Well, the PCB has pads for three diodes so I thought I'll either jumper the last one or I'll try 3 LEDS. By accident, instead of putting the third LED in series with one of the others I put it in parallel to the other two so all three are parallel to each other and it produced the best tone I've ever heard come through my 2204. It changed the frequency or something and sounded perfect. I don't think there is any way of doing this with the PCB(?) but I'm making notes for a future design of my own. It didn't sound good with the Edge switch in the first position though... so I'm not sure if this is a fluke and bad idea or it will work with my future design?

I guess I'll be using LEDs and jumpering that 3rd Diode. It's about time to solder to the PCB :)
 
Ok.. finally got this one built. It sure was disappointing to get it all connected and then have it not work. I took it back to the workbench and found I had forgotten to put the IC in the socket I had soldered in.. LOL.. I'm such a dumb newb. So then I tried to fire it up again but same situation. No LED and no sound with the pedal engaged. It would work as a bypass though so I took it to the work bench again. Then I realized I had wired the power input wrong. Good thing I had the schottky diode or I might have fried it I guess. Another dumb newb mistake (this is only my third pedal build and the first was a BYOC paint by number) but this time it worked and sounded just like it did on the breadboard.

I can't wait to play with this some more.. it really sounds good. I'll have to post up some pics after I order some knobs and get the decals created and applied.
 
If it's like another Effects Layout I had, the schematic didn't match the traces on the PCB!???
Binned 2, never again.
You're a better man than me if you can figure out the traces on these things. I noticed that one capacitor didn't match from the board to the schematic and parts sheet so I went with what was on the part sheet. I also noticed that some of the square pads were actually marked with a + so I put the positive there instead of the negative. I also noticed that some of the pads were very close to each other and it would be easy to create a bridge between the two when soldering. I actually did and had to get the solder sucker out to remove some solder.

But if a newb like me can build this and make it work then I'd say that @Laundryroom David got a defective board.
 
You're a better man than me if you can figure out the traces on these things. I noticed that one capacitor didn't match from the board to the schematic and parts sheet so I went with what was on the part sheet. I also noticed that some of the square pads were actually marked with a + so I put the positive there instead of the negative. I also noticed that some of the pads were very close to each other and it would be easy to create a bridge between the two when soldering. I actually did and had to get the solder sucker out to remove some solder.

But if a newb like me can build this and make it work then I'd say that @Laundryroom David got a defective board.
It can happen & be picked up in the prototype that should be built by the PCB Provider!
This should be standard practice before letting them out into DIY land & frustrating the crap out of the receiver & flushing Money down the toilet!
My biggest issue is they/ some don't put the Component or Values on the PCB so you have to cross reference which is laziness in the PCB design!

My 2 cents!
 
You're a better man than me if you can figure out the traces on these things. I noticed that one capacitor didn't match from the board to the schematic and parts sheet so I went with what was on the part sheet. I also noticed that some of the square pads were actually marked with a + so I put the positive there instead of the negative. I also noticed that some of the pads were very close to each other and it would be easy to create a bridge between the two when soldering. I actually did and had to get the solder sucker out to remove some solder.

But if a newb like me can build this and make it work then I'd say that @Laundryroom David got a defective board.
Glad it worked for you. Good job!
 
It can happen & be picked up in the prototype that should be built by the PCB Provider!
This should be standard practice before letting them out into DIY land & frustrating the crap out of the receiver & flushing Money down the toilet!
My biggest issue is they/ some don't put the Component or Values on the PCB so you have to cross reference which is laziness in the PCB design!

My 2 cents!
I share your 2 cents
 
Yeah I like the values on the PCB a lot. I am bummed to hear about these issues, and maybe I won't buy anymore. However, for all reading this I should note that I built the Mitt and Kentauride in a dual pedal and it sounds great. Yes, there was a long(!) Troubleshooting thread about it but the problem turned out to be a solder bridge that I didn't see even after inspecting PCB. Just this weekend I compared the Mitt to my Tim v3 and, aside form the Hi Cut switch on the v3, it sounds the same!
 
Yeah I like the values on the PCB a lot. I am bummed to hear about these issues, and maybe I won't buy anymore. However, for all reading this I should note that I built the Mitt and Kentauride in a dual pedal and it sounds great. Yes, there was a long(!) Troubleshooting thread about it but the problem turned out to be a solder bridge that I didn't see even after inspecting PCB. Just this weekend I compared the Mitt to my Tim v3 and, aside form the Hi Cut switch on the v3, it sounds the same!
If it works for you, then go for it! I’m not trying to interfere in anybody’s stuff or keep people from trying other pcb makers.
 
Ohh. Glad I found this thread. This is in my non-working bin for the same reason. Will try to make it work with the suggestions from this thread when I find the time.
 
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