Electrovibe Build w/Monk Mods

I’m just about to start building my first Electrovibe. @Big Monk (or somebody else), can you explain to this idiot what you mean by ”Replace Q1/Q2 with a single MPSA13.” Can I solder in a MPSA13 in Q1 and leave Q2 empty, or what?
In addition to what you posted...
You'd need to jumper Q2's BASE & EMITTER.


Or you could do it the other way 'round (whichever is easier done on the PCB):






ELECTROVIBE Q1 & Q2 REPLACED BY MPSA13.png
 
Or you could stick the MPSA13's BASE and COLLECTOR in Q1 and bend the EMITTER-leg around to Q2, that would work as well, so long as you don't short any of the legs against each other.

ELECTROVIBE PCB — REPLACE Q1&Q2 with MPSA13.png
 
I’m just about to start building my first Electrovibe. @Big Monk (or somebody else), can you explain to this idiot what you mean by ”Replace Q1/Q2 with a single MPSA13.” Can I solder in a MPSA13 in Q1 and leave Q2 empty, or what?

I think I would recommend the following if you wanted a good mix of vintage/modern performance:

Q15 = BC547B
Q5, Q6, Q8-Q12 = BC547A
Q14 = BC547C
Q1/Q2, Q3/Q4 = MPSA13

As far as how to install the MPSA13 in place of two transistors, notice how the pairs in question are actually already wired as true darlingtons, as opposed to the pairs in the phaser stages, where on collector has a resistor:

LFO/Bulb Driver:

1780411466595.png

Phase Stages:

1780411491105.png

The easiest way to make the true darlington install would be to make the install of the single darlington into Q2 and Q3, and simply install a jumper wire from base to emitter on Q1 and Q4:

1780411642588.png

Since 2n5088 and MPSA13 both have the same orientation, it should work out like this, and this is how I did it in the past:

1780411860177.png
 
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