chris.knudson
Well-known member
That's the main reason to go to Tayda -- it's not because they are the best and certainly not the fastest, but they are one of the few places you can get everything you need in one order and save on the shipping.
Halp! I Need Some Basic Parts Advice From All You Pros...
- Thread starter Ginsly
- Start date
Feral Feline
Well-known member
Without question, get MACHINED sockets and avoid the leaf springs, here's why...
Get robust machined pins, the leafs are a pathetic excuse for even oven-foil.
Get robust machined pins, the leafs are a pathetic excuse for even oven-foil.
Passinwind
Well-known member
Depends on where in the circuit it lives. I just hand match critical components anyway in tuned filters and the like though, so 5% is typically fine for my purposes. I use mostly Wimas and Kemets, in red or blue respectively. It's better to look mahvelous than to sound mahvelous, no?
jessenator
Well-known member
Interesting. I've never had a leaf socket fail on me in regular use ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ even bent pins I've gotten back without breaking. I suppose it's a matter of YMMV.
Erik S
Well-known member
I’ve tried both kinds and never had any actual problems with either. ICs have flat pins though… and pinching them between two spring loaded flat contacts just seems to make more sense to me mechanically.
Flat pin in a round hole seems like you’d only get edge contact, and have less margin for size tolerance/ position error. Machined ones do look way fancier though.
Silver Blues
Well-known member
Yep! I've definitely used them and have a bunch in the ol' stash but I just stopped buying them for purely aesthetic reasons....Faratronic/Arcotronics greys (so they’re ok, just ugly?
Depends on what sort of deal you can get on them and where they're going in the circuit. If they're just for power filters it shouldn't matter as long as they're good quality, but you might consider the "audio grade" ones for anything in the circuit path (for example, I'm favouring Nichicon Muse caps for bipolar electrolytics that go in the signal path these days - again, perhaps overkill for routine work).
AES is a nice store and they too have a great selection of quality knobs and other hardware, so it may be worth considering purchasing more from them instead of other places if you want to keep the shipping down. They're also one of the cheapest places I know of (even local, for me) to get good silver micas (cough Sushi Box cough).
Good call! I forgot to mention the dust seals. Don't forget to stock up on those, they're necessary to prevent contact between the backs of the pots and your circuit board (and are an elegant solution to this problem).
At the risk of revealing all the trade secrets
, here is some of my list of vetted sellers:- Galaxy Electronics - great source for electrolytics, haven't tried to buy anything else from them but have always had a good experience.
- Yinfonic - same as above.
- World Famous Electronic Component - I get all my high-voltage film caps for Sushi Box builds and the fancy resistors I sometimes use from here. Nice selection and excellent customer service.
- M!M Electronics and ml-electronics - two storefronts run by the same person, well-known in our community as a source of NOS Soviet parts.
- SOVCOM - a premier source of NOS Soviet parts.
Sure, that works! I'm actually surprised so many people love the leaf-spring ones, I agree with @Feral Feline, they're so fragile. I've never broken a machine-tooled socket and have broken several of the leaf-spring ones.
jhaneyzz
Well-known member
The one time LMS sent me the wrong color knobs I gotta say was one of the best customer support exchanges I’ve had in years. I order from them MORE since then because they did handsprings to make me happy.
@Silver Blues Ah, you're Sushi Box, huh? I've heard nothing but great things, and you're already on my radar...
I guess I'm a little confused about "standard" silicon transistors. Mouser seems to carry all-new transistors, but some of them (like metal can 2N2222) are like $3 apiece? Seems odd, as NOS ones can be found for less at Small Bear...
Hmm yeah Tayda doesn't seem great for jacks...I don't see any in-stock DC jacks I'd trust, and very few name-brand stereo jacks. They have these, but are open-style and might take up more space: https://www.taydaelectronics.com/neutrik-6-35mm-1-4-stereo-chassis-socket-jack-3-terminals.html
They have some SPDT switches which they seem REALLY excited about, ha... "made in same factory as (XYZ)!! Wow!" Maybe I'll get a couple...
Thanks for the eBay tips!! It'll be quite some time before I even know what to look for at ANY of them, ha! I'll have to revisit them when I'm less of a dum-dum about this stuff...
I am SO new to this stuff that I haven't quite made it to understanding schematics completely... I sadly wouldn't be able to tell if it was in the signal path or power section... Are there certain uF values/thresholds that might indicate if they're in the circuit path or power section? If I wound up getting all-decent "normal" Nich/Pan electrolytic caps, what is the risk in the audio path? Noise? I REALLY want to reduce hiss, hum, buzz, etc. although I know a lot of that is simply my EMI-ridden environment. Still, some circuits pick up more garbage than others. Wondering if there are certain uF values that a generally wise to go with "audio grade".
I'm definitely going to see if I can find some more things I need at AES. There are some things that Tayda doesn't have, or is simply out of. It does seem like Mouser has the handful of things Tayda is missing, but I'm going to check out AES for all of that too.
I guess I'm a little confused about "standard" silicon transistors. Mouser seems to carry all-new transistors, but some of them (like metal can 2N2222) are like $3 apiece? Seems odd, as NOS ones can be found for less at Small Bear...
Hmm yeah Tayda doesn't seem great for jacks...I don't see any in-stock DC jacks I'd trust, and very few name-brand stereo jacks. They have these, but are open-style and might take up more space: https://www.taydaelectronics.com/neutrik-6-35mm-1-4-stereo-chassis-socket-jack-3-terminals.html
They have some SPDT switches which they seem REALLY excited about, ha... "made in same factory as (XYZ)!! Wow!" Maybe I'll get a couple...
Thanks for the eBay tips!! It'll be quite some time before I even know what to look for at ANY of them, ha! I'll have to revisit them when I'm less of a dum-dum about this stuff...
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spi
Well-known member
If I need jacks and I'm ordering from Tayda, I go for these ones:
I like the ones from SBP better though, because they have teeth to get better ground with the enclosure.
I like the ones from SBP better though, because they have teeth to get better ground with the enclosure.
Silver Blues
Well-known member
Oh god no!! Lmao. You're looking for @vigilante398, he's the one behind Sushi Box and C2C Electronics.
Usually, but not always, the larger-value caps (47uF and up) tend to be power filters. You often find middle values like 22uF as emitter/source bypass capacitors, and the signal path ususally has the lower values (1-10uF). The risk is probably nothing, and you're right that some circuits just pick up more noise than others. The dress of your build (e.g., using shielded wire and being neat about routing) and sometimes using low-noise semiconductors will typically have a more dramatic effect on noise.
Those are the stereo version of the NYS229 that I suggested above.
It's funny, I've seen an equal amount of people both trash these and recommend them! Ha...If I need jacks and I'm ordering from Tayda, I go for these ones:
I like the ones from SBP better though, because they have teeth to get better ground with the enclosure.
Oops, my bad!
I misunderstood...THIS is where I need some guidance. I'm about to buy a small batch of typical silicon transistors, and I have no idea which are more prone to noise than others. I'm also not sure how often I actually see shielded wire in pedals - you mean wire with a metal sleeve that connects to ground separately? I'd love to see an example, because this is top-of-the-list to me. I have EMI everywhere, and try as I might, it creeps in... I'll do anything to reduce it while building a pedal!
Feral Feline
Well-known member
That broken pin is legit, not staged.
I hate flyleafs but convinced myself to give them another go after reading about others' experience with them in the linked thread in my post — as I was trial fitting the flyleaf, the leg broke off. I wasn't even being abusive to it.
That's one of the great things about this place, see what others do and trying it to see if it works for yourself — and a bit of fun on the forum ribbing each other re choices/preferences/tastes.
jessenator
Well-known member
[meeeem that belongs on IAIGF]
vigilante398
Authorized Vendor
Hahaha @Silver Blues name dropped ya! He knows his stuff too, so if you HAVE to have an imposter one day... consider him first!
Feral Feline
Well-known member
darwin999
Well-known member
I wanted to add one thing to this discussion: it's worth being aware that some MLCC ceramic capacitors (e.g., specifically Class II MLCC's such as XR5, X6S, X7R,...) use high dielectric constant perovskite materials that can have surprisingly large capacitance changes with voltage (both AC and DC). Hence,
Here are 2 good links on this topic:
- It's worth looking carefully at the capacitor data sheets, as good manufacturers provide data on the voltage change.
- It's also worth thinking about where you use class II MLCC capacitors in a circuit, thinking about where the AC &/or DC voltage may be large enough to significantly alter the capacitance, and whether the change matters significantly.
Here are 2 good links on this topic:
- From Murata (a quality electronics & capacitor manufacturer): https://www.murata.com/en-us/support/faqs/capacitor/ceramiccapacitor/char/0005
- From Digikey (a quality electronics supplier): https://www.digikey.com/Site/Global/Layouts/DownloadPdf.ashx?pdfUrl=863968494F2E4E13BBEA65B55A358443
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Harry Klippton
Well-known member
At some point you just gotta build some pedals
