How to fix the LFO tick in the Sea Horse and Dark Rift
- Thread starter Chuck D. Bones
- Start date
K Pedals
Well-known member
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K Pedals
Well-known member
Happy to help!.¡.!
badpioneer
New member
For this fix on Dark Rift, should C1 be changed to 1nf or left at 100p?
Chuck D. Bones
Circuit Wizard
Leave C1 at 100pF. The real fix involves C30 and is described at the beginning of this topic.
badpioneer
New member
That did the trick! I had the capacitor soldered in the wrong spot before, but redid it just like in K Pedals' photo above. Tick is gone and the pedal sounds great! Thanks to everyone for their info, and Chuck D Bones for the mod!
Anyone know how hard it would be to make wet/dry know go completely wet? I suppose that might be best in its own topic.
Anyone know how hard it would be to make wet/dry know go completely wet? I suppose that might be best in its own topic.
Chuck D. Bones
Circuit Wizard
Do you want to do it with a switch? Or do you want the MIX control to be 100% dry at zero and 100% wet at 10? Go ahead and start a new topic.
Robert
Reverse Engineer
I should probably add this to the first post, but...
Any PCB shipped from today (April 2, 2020) and beyond does not require the modification/fix.
The updated PCBs can be identified by the "Rev 1.3" marking on the back. This applies to both the Sea Horse and Dark Rift Delay.
Any PCB shipped from today (April 2, 2020) and beyond does not require the modification/fix.
The updated PCBs can be identified by the "Rev 1.3" marking on the back. This applies to both the Sea Horse and Dark Rift Delay.
Nostradoomus
Well-known member
bengarland
Active member
Is PedalPCB tracking these types of changes anywhere? I'm always curious if I've built a pedal but missed a fix like this.
I have a Rev. 1.3 PCB but it still has the 47nF for C30. Do these instructions still apply? I get some ticking at certain settings.
Chuck D. Bones
Circuit Wizard
The value of C30 is not critical. How it's connected on the board is. The previous rev produced ticking at all settings. Specifically, which settings produce ticking on your pedal?
Robert
Reverse Engineer
That shouldn't be possible. Can you post a pic?
Robert
Reverse Engineer
What about the marking on the actual PCB? You should generally always follow the marking on the PCB unless a value is blacked out on the board.
Aside from relocating that capacitor there were no circuit changes, but some components may have been moved around to better accommodate trace routing after the change.
Aside from relocating that capacitor there were no circuit changes, but some components may have been moved around to better accommodate trace routing after the change.
Nostradoomus
Well-known member
I just built one of the new boards and don’t remember using a 47N, I didn’t use the build docs though.
Nostradoomus
Well-known member
An update to this issue.
I built the new Dark Rift board and had ticking once it was all boxed up (and sold, of course!?️
). It was only once the rate pot reached its almost extreme which isn’t a big deal to me as I don’t use it like that but could be an issue for the buyer. What I ended up doing was using TL022s in place of the 072s as they are lower current draw and have cured tick in quite a few LFO based builds of mine. I also grounded the footswitch PCB output with a 1M to ground and now it’s just fine and the footswitch pop is a lot more quiet as well.
I built the new Dark Rift board and had ticking once it was all boxed up (and sold, of course!?️
). It was only once the rate pot reached its almost extreme which isn’t a big deal to me as I don’t use it like that but could be an issue for the buyer. What I ended up doing was using TL022s in place of the 072s as they are lower current draw and have cured tick in quite a few LFO based builds of mine. I also grounded the footswitch PCB output with a 1M to ground and now it’s just fine and the footswitch pop is a lot more quiet as well.