Kester 311 water soluble flux

chongmagic

Well-known member
Picked some of this up after hearing about it from the BYOC forums. Very easy to clean and easy to use thus far. Works as well as Kester no clean 63/37.
 
Picked some of this up after hearing about it from the BYOC forums. Very easy to clean and easy to use thus far. Works as well as Kester no clean 63/37.
I'm currently using Kester 44 63/37 with the "66" core in both 0.020 and 0.031 diameters and find that it produces great joints but it's a bear to clean up.

I'm interested in possibly switching to Kester 331 and wanted to ask if by "Kester no clean 63/37" you're referring to standard Kester "44" 63/37?

If yes, how would you compare the finished appearance of solder joints between the two? Are you using just warm water to clean the flux residue after soldering?

Thanks in advance!
 
I've used both Kester 44 and Kester no-clean - they are two separate products (not sure if this is what OP is using, but this has been my experience). I actually bought the no-clean first but hated it as it (ironically) made such a mess when soldering. No-clean just means that you don't have to clean it, not that it doesn't make a mess, which was my mistake.

For cleaning Kester 44 soaking the board in iso alcohol works well for me. I soak it for a minute or so then scrub it with a toothbrush using a Kim Wipe between the board and toothbrush. Do this a couple times and it gets off all the flux. There's a couple of threads on cleaning boards that you might want to check out, too.
 
I picked some of the same after I heard about it in BYOC, too. It’s nice, but I still prefer Rosen core.
 
I've used both Kester 44 and Kester no-clean - they are two separate products (not sure if this is what OP is using, but this has been my experience). I actually bought the no-clean first but hated it as it (ironically) made such a mess when soldering. No-clean just means that you don't have to clean it, not that it doesn't make a mess, which was my mistake.

For cleaning Kester 44 soaking the board in iso alcohol works well for me. I soak it for a minute or so then scrub it with a toothbrush using a Kim Wipe between the board and toothbrush. Do this a couple times and it gets off all the flux. There's a couple of threads on cleaning boards that you might want to check out, too.
Thanks @peccary. I have been "successful" in cleaning flux residue with Kester's 44 solder, BUT having the ability to wash flux residue away with warm water would be much easier than having to use IPA. I've found that even with the most diligent attempts using IPA, you're still left with some residual film on the board. I figured it was worth asking about a solder that may be easier to clean IF it also delivered the same quality solder joints as the 44.
I picked some of the same after I heard about it in BYOC, too. It’s nice, but I still prefer Rosen core.
What was it about the 331 that left you with a preference for the latter?
 
Thanks @peccary. I have been "successful" in cleaning flux residue with Kester's 44 solder, BUT having the ability to wash flux residue away with warm water would be much easier than having to use IPA. I've found that even with the most diligent attempts using IPA, you're still left with some residual film on the board. I figured it was worth asking about a solder that may be easier to clean IF it also delivered the same quality solder joints as the 44.

What was it about the 331 that left you with a preference for the latter?
The residue is pretty gnarly.
 
I use Kester 44 "no clean" flux but I do clean my boards. I had started a thread a while ago about different cleaning methods.
Not sure I would want to soak my boards with water (even though I soak them in IPA).

But lately, inspired by @jjjimi84's tips for beginners video post I've gone back to using the can of MG Chemical's flux cleaner that I had sitting on the shelf. Not sure why I stopped using it, I bought it very early in my building career. I guess I started using IPA.

But what I've discovered is that the MG Chemicals spray, a little bit goes a long way to break down that "no clean" mess the K 44 leaves behind.
I spritz it a couple times. Scrub with a toothbrush, then I've been "rinsing" it with a couple spritzes of QD Contact Cleaner. It leaves a nice clean and shiny board and leaves less residue than using plain IPA. (And uses a lot less actual solvent). The contact cleaner also works all by itself pretty well as a flux solvent. (And is a lot cheaper than the MG chemicals stuff)

The only downside is that I need to open the garage door and do all that outside. Pretty overpowering smell.
 
That MG chemicals stuff really destroys the latex gloves i wear when i do it. Its pretty gnarly stuff but works like a dream
 
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