LED polarity

[Robert]

Yep, that's the one.

Part numbers are listed in the v1 build docs.:

https://docs.pedalpcb.com/project/Parentheses.v1.pdf

 

[Kelmark1]

thanks

 

[farwest1]

Thank you! I just messed this up in a circuit, so this clarifies.

What does the K stand for? A is Anode I assume. If K is Cathode, why did the industry not make it C?

 

[Robert]

Cathode was derived from the Greek word "kathodos": https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cathode#Etymology

 

[farwest1]

Cathode was derived from the Greek word "kathodos": https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cathode#Etymology

Exactly the kind of content I come to these forums for! Thank you.

 

[Nostradoomus]

PedalPCB

Come for the fuzz, stay for the etymology.

 

[zgrav]

Step right up! Come to the forums for some fuzzy etymology

 

[irvmuller]

I saw this and wanted to ask about replacing diodes with LEDs. I've been reading about it and wanted to make sure, if you do this, the shorter end goes on the side where the strip would go in the diode, correct?

 

[Nostradoomus]

That’s right. The stripe on the diode pad indicates the negative (cathode) end. If the legs on your LED are clipped you can tell the negative side still by the flat portion right where the legs attach to the epoxy. Generally you’ll want to experiment with the clipping diode sections of the circuit...don’t replace the 1n5817 with an LED

 

[irvmuller]

That’s right. The stripe on the diode pad indicates the negative (cathode) end. If the legs on your LED are clipped you can tell the negative side still by the flat portion right where the legs attach to the epoxy. Generally you’ll want to experiment with the clipping diode sections of the circuit...don’t replace the 1n5817 with an LED

Thanks for the quick reply. Yeah, changing the 1n5817 can definitely lead to some trouble. I'm planning do experiment with the muffin fuzz. Gonna try using symmetrical and asymmetrical set ups and using yellow and red diodes to check out the differences. I'll be running it on bass so I'll see wha the effect is. Doing this with the Stomp 75/Ram's Head and the Green Russian.

 

[Nostradoomus]

I like orange the best!

 

[Barry]

I like Blue Blue Di-oode

 

[Matmos]

damn... that's why my led is not turning on

 

[fig]

You put the long leg in,
You take the long leg out,
You put the short leg in,
( okay done typing now )

 

[Kyle-Vick]

I just put a Little Debbie together and it sounds really good and everything works properly, but it seems noisy. I think it’s normal with the BE-OD because they have so much gain, but now I am wondering if it could be because I switched the LED polarity. Could that be a thing? The status LED functions properly, but I am pretty sure I switched the polarity on that and all of the clipping LEDs. My previous pedal I did before this was one from BYOC and the build docs said to put the long leg of the LED in the square pad, so that’s what I did here.

TL-DR: if I switch the LED polarity, will it make it quieter, or is it just the nature of the beast?

 

[Robert]

The indicator LED wouldn't light up if you installed it backwards.

As for the clipping diodes, as long as you reversed them all then they're still working properly.

 

[Kyle-Vick]

Thank you!

 

[Kyle-Vick]

I wasn’t paying attention and was using a AC adapter with that pedal, that is why the LED was still working. With a DC pedal, it appears to function properly, just no indicator. Would there be any benefit in swapping the 4 LEDs inside around when I swap the indicator? Should not sound any different?

 

[Urshurak776]

Just bought the Cobalt and noticed they are still like example 3. I guess it will change to example
1 or 2 with the next batch of boards?

 

[Robert]

Yes, some of the boards still haven't been reordered since the change.