MBP Kingmaker (Pearl FG-1 Flanger)

Bio77

Well-known member
A different flavor of flanger, for sure. It's in the BF-2 camp but to my ears, sounds like the odd harmonic setting on a A/DA flange. I still want to wrap my head around the depth and clock trimmers. There were lots of variation in sound available by playing with those. MB's flanger magic in the newest releases is here; this thing is dead quiet when you aren't playing. Very cool build. For the enclosure I used a white paint marker on a no-film decal to block out the skeleton. Super pleased with the results.

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Ohhhhhhhhh you put the paint marker ON the back of the no film?? I assumed you expertly applied the paint marker to the enclosure first. Yeah the gold foil is reverse image too
 
Ohhhhhhhhh you put the paint marker ON the back of the no film?? I assumed you expertly applied the paint marker to the enclosure first. Yeah the gold foil is reverse image too
Yeah, you don't have to be too careful, just color in the lines. You can see where I F-ed up a bit by the ribcage and pelvis. Just color and let dry and then apply like a regular no-film.
 
That looks amazing! How do you cure your film free decals? I use them but, if I want any white in the picture, I put them on a white enclosure because I did not think that putting white paint on the enclosure before putting the decal down would survive the curing process (I generally cure in the oven at about 225° for 30 minutes and I figured most paints like my Posca paint pens wouldn’t survive those temperatures.)

Mike
 
Thanks everyone!
That looks amazing! How do you cure your film free decals? I use them but, if I want any white in the picture, I put them on a white enclosure because I did not think that putting white paint on the enclosure before putting the decal down would survive the curing process (I generally cure in the oven at about 225° for 30 minutes and I figured most paints like my Posca paint pens wouldn’t survive those temperatures.)

Mike
Yes, I cured everything at 225 F after I applied the label. I used a white Sharpie paint marker. Blocked in white on the printed no-film label first, let it dry for a few hours. Then applied the no-film label as usual with the glue -> hairdryer -> curing.
 
Thanks everyone!

Yes, I cured everything at 225 F after I applied the label. I used a white Sharpie paint marker. Blocked in white on the printed no-film label first, let it dry for a few hours. Then applied the no-film label as usual with the glue -> hairdryer -> curing.
OK, that’s just genius. Every time I’ve tried it, I applied the paint to the case before applying the decal (a waterslide decal with a film). It was always a bear to match up where the paint was on the case with the decal, and it also made the decal lumpy. You have solved that issue in an elegant way that I would never have thought of. Thank you!

Mike
 
I used an oil based Sharpie paint marker. Below are some pics of a recent pedal I built. The no-film process prints in reverse, so, you just have to block out the part you want to be white. You should try to get the paint applied even without streaks or lumps. The one below came out perfect. I did notice that when I tried to clean up excess glue with isopropanol it was taking off the white paint. I stopped right away and just left the excess glue. Other than that, it seems pretty robust.
 

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I used an oil based Sharpie paint marker. Below are some pics of a recent pedal I built. The no-film process prints in reverse, so, you just have to block out the part you want to be white. You should try to get the paint applied even without streaks or lumps. The one below came out perfect. I did notice that when I tried to clean up excess glue with isopropanol it was taking off the white paint. I stopped right away and just left the excess glue. Other than that, it seems pretty robust.
Wow, that turned out awesome as well, it gives me some ideas of what’s possible.
 
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