Pdf or Tayda? The pdf was posted somewhere in here a while back. If you’re looking for Tayda drill files, I have two that I posted in the appropriate subforum, that I haven’t tested yet, but I believe @fig ordered it for his build and verified that it was right.Is there a drill template for the SynchroTrem available?
They were available for a while. Never saw a build report afaik, but I do recall people mentioning having the board. I missed out on it too. Hopefully it’ll be back in the next batch of restocks.Did the Lycan Overdrive ever get released? Did I miss the 1st batch. Are there plans to stock the pcb again?
The picture shows a B100k and four (4) C100k's. Is that what you mean?Does anyone know the pot ids for the newest version of the betty boost?
Thanks!
Ernie
Not sure if it was mentioned but the top picture of the pcb in the Dirt Dauber build doc has pins 2 and 3 of the octave switch reversed. It shows 1st hole to pin 1. 2nd hole to pin 3 and 3rd hole to pin 2. But the wiring diagram for the octave switch in the build doc looks exactly like you’re wiring. Just wondering which one is correct?Sorry for the crude drawing, just threw it together quick for you.
View attachment 28312
Just wondering which one is correct?
Are you referring to the P1, P2, P3 markings? If so those don't really have any significance, they're just unique identifiers for each pad.
The wiring diagram is correct.
I noticed that I switched the two lugs around to control the LED in my quick drawing above (the wires on the far right) but it works the same either way.
Hey thanks. Yeah I was referring to the P1, P2, P3 markings. I Built this one a few weeks back and haven’t been able to get it to work. I’ve built some pedals that are much more complicated and somehow I can’t get this simple circuit to work. lol. I tried the usual troubleshooting but no luck yet. Gonna give the probe a go next. Thinking I may have gotten a bad component. Replaced the ICs and no change, checked every connection and solder joint. I feel like the chances of a resistor or film cap being bad seem slim but idk. Might just have to post it up on the correct thread here and see what others think. Thanks again.Are you referring to the P1, P2, P3 markings? If so those don't really have any significance, they're just unique identifiers for each pad.
The wiring diagram is correct.
I noticed that I switched the two lugs around to control the LED in my quick drawing above (the wires on the far right) but it works the same either way.
I took the liberty of creating “a dummy PCB” to show the schematic I created based on the traces on my PCB so that you may corroborate my schematic against the PedalPCB PCB.Could we please get the skeptical buffer schematic so I can verify the build before starting to solder up I like to breadboard the circuits first to understand how they work