My Klonlike is looking good!! Thanks to Fingolfen!

matt3310

Well-known member
I've been using a laser to do my enclosures for a few years now. But I always wanted a more professional look. I tried the Tayda UV printing, but I just couldn't figure it out. I know its probably not that hard, but I just couldn't do it.
So I reached out to Fingolfen for help. He did all the work and man it looks INCREDIBLE!

So a HUGE thank you to Fingolfen! Here are the pics from the UV print and the bottom is the old laser work I was doing.

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Great looking build @matt3310! I came across this page again in a search relating to Tayda's side printing orientation. Could you (or @Fingolfen) clarify the orientation that Tayda expects PDF files that are submitted for side printing to be?

It looks like you guys did side B and side D on this design. I'm planning a print that needs to be on side E and other than specifying dartboard size, Tayda is a little vague on orientation.

Thanks in advance!
 
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Great looking build @matt3310! I came across this page again in a search relating to Tayda's side printing orientation. Could you (or @Fingolfen) clarify the orientation that Tayda expects PDF files that are submitted for side printing to be?

It looks like you guys did side B and side D on this design. I'm planning a print that needs to be on side E and other than specifying dartboard size, Tayda is a little vague on orientation.

Thanks in advance!
Here's what we did for the Bottom / Top - I'd presume the other sides would also face the "A" side, but I haven't verified with Hugo...

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Thanks so much! I figured it'd probably follow the same orientation as the drill tool, but it's better to be safe than sorry.
 
Most excellent!
I don't know about that cheap stamped metal IC socket though...
If that's the charge pump, then I strongly recommend not socketing it. Switching converters depend on minimum lead length for the best performance & least EMI. It's a nit, but better to avoid a problem when possible.
 
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