My new pedal isn’t working and I’m not flexible enough to kick my own face.
- Thread starter Dan M
- Start date
MichaelW
Well-known member
Those look fake to me, I think that's the problem.......
That seems to be a hot topic at the moment! FAKE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Feral Feline
Well-known member
I thought that was your sole domain.
If you only had a dollar for every trouble-shoot thread you've solved...
Had to troubleshoot the Chrysler a couple days ago. Drove it a couple times during the day and in the evening went to go home and it was dead.
Headlights came on, idiot lights came on when turning the key, but nothing from the starter. New battery still fully charged,, and the starter hadn't been acting up, so no forewarning it was dying. No (new/additional) loose wires under the dash. Jiggled the shifter out of habit, turned the key. Still nothing. Tapped the starter with a hammer, as sometimes the brushes get stuck "in-between". Nothing. Neighbour who suggested tapping the starter says "You sure it's in park or neutral?"
Sudden flashbacks to being 16-yo with the family Olds Delta 88 that had a finicky shift-arm; sure enough, Chrysler's shift lever was between park and reverse. Moved it fully into park and the 383 fired right up.
It's the simple little things that get you most often, it seems — an in-between shift lever, an empty socket on a PCB...
Say, didn't Def Leppard have a song... went something like: "Sp sp sp Spoolin' Won't you solder with me awhile...".
Then there was "Spool for your love" by ... Neil Young? Dianna Ross? Mickey Gilley!
Next on Car-O-Rama ... Spoolin' up the turbo!
Harry Klippton
Not Interested
More car content pleaseI thought that was your sole domain.
If you only had a dollar for every trouble-shoot thread you've solved...
Had to troubleshoot the Chrysler a couple days ago. Drove it a couple times during the day and in the evening went to go home and it was dead.
Headlights came on, idiot lights came on when turning the key, but nothing from the starter. New battery still fully charged,, and the starter hadn't been acting up, so no forewarning it was dying. No (new/additional) loose wires under the dash. Jiggled the shifter out of habit, turned the key. Still nothing. Tapped the starter with a hammer, as sometimes the brushes get stuck "in-between". Nothing. Neighbour who suggested tapping the starter says "You sure it's in park or neutral?"
Sudden flashbacks to being 16-yo with the family Olds Delta 88 that had a finicky shift-arm; sure enough, Chrysler's shift lever was between park and reverse. Moved it fully into park and the 383 fired right up.
Showing the Windsor off, again.
It's the simple little things that get you most often, it seems — an in-between shift lever, an empty socket on a PCB...
Say, didn't Def Leppard have a song... went something like: "Sp sp sp Spoolin' Won't you solder with me awhile...".
Then there was "Spool for your love" by ... Neil Young? Dianna Ross? Mickey Gilley!
Next on Car-O-Rama ... Spoolin' up the turbo!
DGWVI
Well-known member
I'm building a Lectric Dandy Horse today... And couldn't get the voltages right. Tried everything from replacing everything in the power block to resoldering the whole board... My Lm324 was in backward 
This and just outright forgetting the chips are my two most common mistakes
This and just outright forgetting the chips are my two most common mistakes
Robert
Reverse Engineer
I'm building the prototype for the new revision of the Flock PCB.... Everything went together smoothly, better than expected!
But the damned thing is behaving erratically... which is expected for such a thing, but no, this wasn't "normal" erratic... something was definitely wrong.
How can this be? The only difference is the breakout board for the rotary... Oh man, what have I done? [proceeds to tear through the schematic and layout for both versions, comparing each and every connection while spouting profanity at each node]
This makes no sense, it should work, nothing is wrong... Okay, grab the DMM, it's time to dig in....
Yeah.... That would do it.
By the way, that electrolytic is not melted despite how it appears in this pic.
Hey @Bricksnbeatles, as you can see, the new rotary switch footprint fit like a glove.
But the damned thing is behaving erratically... which is expected for such a thing, but no, this wasn't "normal" erratic... something was definitely wrong.
How can this be? The only difference is the breakout board for the rotary... Oh man, what have I done? [proceeds to tear through the schematic and layout for both versions, comparing each and every connection while spouting profanity at each node]
This makes no sense, it should work, nothing is wrong... Okay, grab the DMM, it's time to dig in....
Yeah.... That would do it.
By the way, that electrolytic is not melted despite how it appears in this pic.
Hey @Bricksnbeatles, as you can see, the new rotary switch footprint fit like a glove.
fig
Village Idiot
pin 6 may need a touch-up chief.I'm building the prototype for the new revision of the Flock PCB.... Everything went together smoothly, better than expected!
But the damned thing is behaving erratically... which is expected for such a thing, but no, this wasn't "normal" erratic... something was definitely wrong.
How can this be? The only difference is the breakout board for the rotary... Oh man, what have I done? [proceeds to tear through the schematic and layout for both versions, comparing each and every connection while spouting profanity at each node]
This makes no sense, it should work, nothing is wrong... Okay, grab the DMM, it's time to dig in....
View attachment 31119
Yeah.... That would do it.
By the way, that electrolytic is not melted despite how it appears in this pic.
Hey @Bricksnbeatles, as you can see, the new rotary switch footprint fit like a glove.
yep, definitely sticking to phaser and bbd builds from here on out... thought damn thing didn't work because of the 2nd pic 
Anybody ready to trade a 4017 for like some tl074's or 4049/4069's? I know I'm I'gona have a night mare gettign the *)^%$*& thing out
Anybody ready to trade a 4017 for like some tl074's or 4049/4069's? I know I'm I'gona have a night mare gettign the *)^%$*& thing out
Attachments
![IMG_0091[1].JPG](https://pedalpcb-forum.nyc3.digitaloceanspaces.com/data/attachments/32/32596-75a42015d2f0c54fdf9d23d3d698bb26.jpg?hash=daQgFdLwxU)
![IMG_0090[1].JPG](https://pedalpcb-forum.nyc3.digitaloceanspaces.com/data/attachments/32/32597-ba47091ac67c31b6bf9df5858578bd85.jpg?hash=ukcJGsZ8Mb)
Coda
Well-known member
If you want to make it real challenging use all the same color hookup wire.
Pedal building: colorblind edition…
In PCB builds colour coding is possible less of a necessity but I still do it with my wiring. But in Vero builds it is a life-saver.
I agree with Chuck. Inspection is important. I always go over the solder side of a board with a magnifying glass before installing it. It's amazing what you can catch, avoiding much heartache later. Maybe the near-bridges wouldn't have caused any problems but why not remove the chances?
And having said that I just built a Vero circuit I've built before yesterday and it didn't work. I compared the board to the layout and discovered I have forgotten a resistor. That'll do it!
I agree with Chuck. Inspection is important. I always go over the solder side of a board with a magnifying glass before installing it. It's amazing what you can catch, avoiding much heartache later. Maybe the near-bridges wouldn't have caused any problems but why not remove the chances?
And having said that I just built a Vero circuit I've built before yesterday and it didn't work. I compared the board to the layout and discovered I have forgotten a resistor. That'll do it!