Chuck D. Bones
Circuit Wizard
How many of you have built the Parentheses?
I had a bit of what seemed like overloading of the octave circuit when that was completely opened up that resulted in a volume drop followed by a swell when hit with a large signal (heavy strum from humbuckers). I matched the resistors and diodes in the rectification block. I think asking that particular octave circuit to be not without its quirks is not exactly reasonable. So, no complaints with it. As always: source from reputable vendors (especially with OOP parts) to make sure that you're getting what you think you're getting. For anything you're unsure of, measure and confirm!
Has anyone had problems with the mini board? I have both and after seeing all of the difficulties that people seem to be having with the original, I think I'm going to try out the mini board first. Haven't seen any troubleshooting posts on that one yet.
Hopefully everyone who has built one cast their vote.
I'be built it with the early, big board. Worked right away and sounds great.
Components came from Musikding/Banzai. I matched the GE diodes (Ringer) and used 3 tantalum caps (Rat). I measure components before soldering them in.
Got the mini board on the way too.
C13 C14 C15 are the tantalum... not sure why though...I haven’t voted yet; I’m still one components order and a bunch of paint/label work away from completion. Maybe this weekend if the shipping gods smile on me.
One question... which caps did you use tantalum parts for? What's the thinking behind that? I had this general perception that I should avoid tantalum.
I matched my GE caps pretty closely but would liked to have started with a bigger pool. Somewhere I’ve got a box of those, but I haven’t been able to find them since a move a couple of years ago.
C13 C14 C15 are the tantalum... not sure why though...
SweetTantalum caps are less leaky, less lossy, have tighter tolerance and are more stable than aluminum caps. Those are all important characteristics for C13 & C14. C15 could be either tantalum or aluminum, but since there is already a 4.7uF cap on the BOM, they might as well be the same type. Tantalum caps have a couple of downsides. Because they are less lossy, they can be resonant in the 100KHz range, but that's not really a concern for audio circuits. They don't tolerate large surge currents well, but that's also not a big concern in guitar pedals.
I haven’t voted yet; I’m still one components order and a bunch of paint/label work away from completion. Maybe this weekend if the shipping gods smile on me.
One question... which caps did you use tantalum parts for? What's the thinking behind that? I had this general perception that I should avoid tantalum.
I matched my GE caps pretty closely but would liked to have started with a bigger pool. Somewhere I’ve got a box of those, but I haven’t been able to find them since a move a couple of years ago.