Parenthesis Mini - components questions

[knucklehead]

Three components specifically.

First; on review I was sent what appears to be 460k resistors for R19, R29 and R30. Two questions; do my eyes deceive me on the values I got, and will these work?



Second; I could not for the life of me find a 30p cap for C12 (Small Bear) and acquired a 33p for the slot. Bad choice?

Third; I have 1N4148 and 1N5817G diodes in abundance, and 1N192s for the clipping signal path. Which is a better pair for the clipping section - the 192s or the 5817s? I have the option. The pedal is intended for use with extreme low frequencies.

I expect I'll need to head back to the well - I just need an idea of how much of what I should re-acquire.

Thanks in advance your collective wisdom

 

[Mcknib]

Your resistors and cap will make little difference resistors all look like voltage dividers so 29 and 30 will make no difference and will divide the voltage exactly in half 19 very little difference 470K = 0.81v 460K = 0.83v being carbon film they are + or - 5% so may well fall within 470K

Your diodes I'd socket the 1N5817 has a smaller fwd voltage around 0.45v than the 1N4148 0.7v and germaniums around 0.3ish

This is a pretty good article

A Brief Hobbyist Primer on Clipping Diodes

A general reference guide on how Clipping Diodes Work

www.guitarpedalx.com

 

[Chuck D. Bones]

33pF is a good sub for 30pF. Have you tried measuring the resistors?

I agree with McKnib; socket the clipping diodes. Try different ones and see which you like best. Be aware there can be volume difference between different diodes.

 

[knucklehead]

33pF is a good sub for 30pF. Have you tried measuring the resistors?

I agree with McKnib; socket the clipping diodes. Try different ones and see which you like best. Be aware there can be volume difference between different diodes.

There's a sh!tpot of 'em - ought I test every resistor, or just the ones I don't have perfect components for? I had no idea there is concern for variances on 'em. I got double the parts so I have coverage.

My biggest concern with the diodes is that they match each other in the octave circuit (D2/3) - all I've read suggest that using the Shottky's will yield an edgier (sharper saw-toothed) distortion, stronger octave and lower-frequency-friendly effect. I have extreme low tunings - guitar AND bass - that I hope this box is appropriate for.

While I promised myself just one project, I acquired a board and have most of the parts for a full-on Parenthesis - so the Mini is shaping up to be a teether.

 

[manfesto]

Unless I’m misreading the picture, yellow/violet/yellow/gold = a 470Kohm 5% resistor?

 

[knucklehead]

Unless I’m misreading the picture, yellow/violet/yellow/gold = a 470Kohm 5% resistor?

I got other 47* resistors for this project - this violet looks substantially more blue comparatively. Part of my asking was to see if my perception of violet is 'off'.

I have a new multimeter on its way in days - we shall soon see.

 

[Nostradoomus]

I have a guitar tuned to F# and 5817s fit the bill there.

 

[knucklehead]

I have a guitar tuned to F# and 5817s fit the bill there.

My bass is an octave lower than that - this'll be fun!

 

[Chuck D. Bones]

There's a sh!tpot of 'em - ought I test every resistor, or just the ones I don't have perfect components for? I had no idea there is concern for variances on 'em. I got double the parts so I have coverage.

My biggest concern with the diodes is that they match each other in the octave circuit (D2/3) - all I've read suggest that using the Shottky's will yield an edgier (sharper saw-toothed) distortion, stronger octave and lower-frequency-friendly effect. I have extreme low tunings - guitar AND bass - that I hope this box is appropriate for.

While I promised myself just one project, I acquired a board and have most of the parts for a full-on Parenthesis - so the Mini is shaping up to be a teether.

Don't overthink it.
There is a range of colors that pass for purple on resistor color bands. When you get your DMM, you'll know for sure. I was not suggesting that you measure every resistor, just a couple of the ones in question.

As for octave diodes, I'd trust Nostradoomus's recommendation.

Ultimately, you are the one who has to decide if the pedal sounds good. I say get on with build and find out.

 

[knucklehead]

I say get on with build and find out.

right on

 

[Nostradoomus]

I used 5817s for clipping and octave...they’re my favourite!

 

[knucklehead]

so . . . .

My DMM showed a day early AND . . . . .

My resistors DO test to 460 - it WAS blue and not lavender.

Capacitors for C12 test to 30p despite being labelled 33p

I have two well-matched pairs of 5817s. One pair at .122 - the other at .123

The populating commences . . . . .

Thanks again for the valued insights!

 

[manfesto]

so . . . .

My DMM showed a day early AND . . . . .

My resistors DO test to 460 - it WAS blue and not lavender.

Capacitors for C12 test to 30p despite being labelled 33p

I have two well-matched pairs of 5817s. One pair at .122 - the other at .123

The populating commences . . . . .

Thanks again for the valued insights!

Heh, they could still be 470Ks, the 5% tolerance on carbon comp means it could be anywhere from 446K to 493K and still be in spec

That would also explain your 33p measuring out at 30p; tolerance on caps is even wider

 

[Danbieranowski]

I used 5817s for clipping and octave...they’re my favourite!

This is for D3,5,6,7?

 

[Nostradoomus]

This is for D3,5,6,7?

D2, D3 (matched Vf) D7, D8. I used 4148s and an orange LED for the asymmetrical option.

 

[Danbieranowski]

D2, D3 (matched Vf) D7, D8. I used 4148s and an orange LED for the asymmetrical option.

Rad thanks!