Question for those who test PCBs before deciding to box them

ThatDude

Active member
I've noticed that some folks test their builds before boxing them or deciding if they want to put them in an enclosure. The Auditorium Test Platform even helps with that workflow. I want to start doing this myself so I can be more selective when deciding if I want to box a circuit. My question to the folks who test before drilling an enclosure is how do you align your pots, toggle switches, or other components that poke through the enclosure without using the drilled enclosure to make sure everything is lined up correctly and will look straight in the enclosure? Thanks in advance.
 
I might be the minority but I always install all hardware (pots, switches, etc) before putting the PCB into an enclosure.
The only thing I don't solder ahead of time is any indicator LEDs...

I eyeball the pots first.

If I'm not planning on boxing it up I will just eyeball the toggle switches as well, otherwise I mount then into the enclosure then drop the PCB on top and solder.
 
I test out of box beforehand and find the simplest way to align pots and switches is to pre-drill the enclosure and test fit these parts by tack-soldering the middle pot lug in each case. This solves the problem of trying to shoehorn a finished build into an inaccurately drilled box. Then one can test freely without the stress of breaking things (or so I try to convince myself).
 
When I'm really unsure if I'll end up boxing something up I solder all pots and switches as straight as possible (or use a cardboard template---starting to test 3D-printing templates too) then measure carefully when it comes time to drill any holes.

That said, if I'm being honest, testing before boxing up means I don't usually box up most of what I populate, as I try the circuit, decide I have something similar already then put it in the pile of stuff I'll get around to finding a home for later. Shh
 
I test out of box beforehand and find the simplest way to align pots and switches is to pre-drill the enclosure and test fit these parts by tack-soldering the middle pot lug in each case. This solves the problem of trying to shoehorn a finished build into an inaccurately drilled box. Then one can test freely without the stress of breaking things (or so I try to convince myself).
This is how I do it, and it works quite well. I tack solder an outer pot lug, but same concept. Then lightly tighten down the pots inside the drilled box, and do the final soldering pass. Same for toggles, though they don't always give you quite as much wiggle room after tack soldering.
 
I should have done this years ago, but make yourself a template out of a spare enclosure or lid(s). The template will have the layouts for 3, 4, and 6 pot boards. Drill these in separate areas (i.e drill the 4 pot layout on the top and the 6 pot layout near where the footswitch will go. The 3 pot layout can go on the lid). MOST PPCB boards follow these "standard" layouts.
 
The most useful tool I have is the template I got from a Gerber from @finebyfine (I can’t find it on mobile). Same as a template enclosure but it’s a PCB.

Add a relay or footswitch to some pogo pins and you have a great tool to rock before/if you box.
 
The most useful tool I have is the template I got from a Gerber from @finebyfine (I can’t find it on mobile). Same as a template enclosure but it’s a PCB.

Add a relay or footswitch to some pogo pins and you have a great tool to rock before/if you box.


I never bothered to renew the ssl cert for this domain name so your browser might throw a warning. I've been meaning to redo it now that Rob has used middle toggles in new spots in a handful of designs but I still use this daily.
 
As is normal with me in all aspects of my life, I make things complicated and labor intensive.

I populate and solder everything first. Pots are pretty adjustable, switches are not. I solder switches in first and level to the top of the switch leveling nut with the bottom of the pot shaft. Then I just look across the pots and align by eye, as well as looking for even spacing between the board and the end of the pot tines.

Micrometric precision is not that important as the tolerances in enclosures are generous (speaking as someone who's had to file his fair share of poorly measured pot holes).

Oh! and really measure twice, drill once, and you can't drill the hole smaller. (speaking as someone who's also had to cover holes with washers.)
 
Back
Top