Questionsss about Fuzz Face input cap.

hendrywong

New member
hey guys, this is my 1st post here, i just built my first fuzz face (AC128) yesterday, everything goes well, and i love the result.
i did quite a bit research and know something about the circuit. of course, i tweak something about it for my taste, almost everything that i have to try things out for what 'it' does to the circuit, including bias, input/output cap, the 33k thing, the .01uF thing, the pot thing, 20uF thing. even batteries, i just got more than 10 different brands and zink carbon thing, alk thing, blah blah blah.

i love it, it's so fun! i love deep dive into the thing i'm interested in.

i'm no expert in electronic, not even student, i just love to learn pedals and want to know how does it work. everything i learn is just 'google it'.
but the questions below is something i can't find exactly answer (maybe i just not learning enough), so i found here.

and here is my questions,
1, i try 4 types cap for the input cap, Ceramic, Film, Electrolytic, Tantalum and different values. with same value, Tantalum sounds dull and flat, the others just almost the same, to me.
this input cap is 'dc blocking', am i right? also filtering some frequencies, low end, right? ( i also feel boost the hign end, or 'clarity', and it would sound like less gain).
is it 'safe' or not wrong not to use Electrolytic? what if no 'dc blocking'? anything dangerous?
or what the sound of the fuzz would be without dc blocking? only Electrolytic can do the 'blocking' thing?

2, Electrolytic 'should' oriented, right? of course, and polarized.
but i read somewhere (i just read too much on different forum, i can't remember who and where said that) says in Fuzz Face circuit is no need to polarized, but why i just saw lots of 'boutique' pedal's circuit board mark the '+', and the schematic also mark '+'.
is it the rule for electronic thing? what happen if i just mess the polarize of this input cap for fuzz face? and also orient of the cap, is it going 'bad' or what if i just 'lay down' the cap?

3, i've read some where the Electrolytic not long last. how long would it be? is it depends on the circuit? so, how about Fuzz Face? years?

4, and about the 'boutique' thing, i have some components from my dad's dusted drawer, try some, and i don't think it make the sound better, it just a little different, maybe because it is 'old', and the thing fade out some what. or my build is not good enough to hear the differents.
so the 'boutique' is for the 'look' more than the quality or the sound?
fancy thing?

i don't know if my questionssssss is too much or dull, but i just have it.... so, anyway, thanks for your reply or reading.

cheers!

Hendry

btw, i'll attach the basic Fuzz Face schematic from ElectroSmash, in case you guys wanna point out the number of specific resistors or caps.

\m/
 

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Welcome to the forum
i'll be quick because this could get long...
1)you can use a film cap, no problem. Use what sounds good.
it's safe to use any cap here, they all block DC and there's no AC present except the guitar. If you are plugging into an ungrounded vintage amp, then the lytic is a good idea,
No DC blocking means DC leaches from one source to a sink, you don't want DC places it doesn't belong. don't omit the cap. Increase for more bass, decrease for less. More clarity comes with less bas as bass overwhelms the amplification stages faster(more energy)
2)yes, lytics are polarized, normally. nonpolarized exists. Keeping short, google on caps...
3)they do go bad over time, but if higher values (like 35v) are used on 9v circuits, that extends their life. different caps have different ratings. use quality electrolytics rated for the highest temp, lowest esr and longest lifespan if you are worried. but even cheap 5 cent caps will last years in most pedals, if not decades.
4) as far as caps go, yep. other components that are now vintage can matter. I'd recommend getting good at making functional circuits with readily available components before worrying about this.
 
Welcome to the forum
i'll be quick because this could get long...
1)you can use a film cap, no problem. Use what sounds good.
it's safe to use any cap here, they all block DC and there's no AC present except the guitar. If you are plugging into an ungrounded vintage amp, then the lytic is a good idea,
No DC blocking means DC leaches from one source to a sink, you don't want DC places it doesn't belong. don't omit the cap. Increase for more bass, decrease for less. More clarity comes with less bas as bass overwhelms the amplification stages faster(more energy)
2)yes, lytics are polarized, normally. nonpolarized exists. Keeping short, google on caps...
3)they do go bad over time, but if higher values (like 35v) are used on 9v circuits, that extends their life. different caps have different ratings. use quality electrolytics rated for the highest temp, lowest esr and longest lifespan if you are worried. but even cheap 5 cent caps will last years in most pedals, if not decades.
4) as far as caps go, yep. other components that are now vintage can matter. I'd recommend getting good at making functional circuits with readily available components before worrying about this.
oh good! love your reply!
now I learn something new! lytic! love this short-form.

thank you very much. now i'm ready to google more of it. this is so fun...

\m/ cheers!
 
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