Six String Stinger oddness

[Allthumbs]

This is my 3rd pedal, first one from pcb alone, the others were complete kits. this one went pretty well but acts weird.

1. it's really quiet. my J201 were around .36 ma each so I suspect this is why. I have since found higher value ones to buy so I'll try that if someone can verify that this may be the issue...

2. the filter pot acts weird in that it doesn't really do much. I think I read about using an audio taper here instead of linear but I'm not sure. I hear it change the tone but not much at all. maybe the volume need to be an audio taper as well? again, not sure.

mainly the volume is fairly low, at about 3/4 full it's at unity where by reports of this design it should be loud as hell.

some help would be greatly appreciated.

 

[Robert]

I always fill em up. I know you run the risk of damaging the switch, but mine are usually already mounted in the enclosure at this point anyway so I'm not too worried about thinking moving while it's hot.

With that said..... These will be rolling out shortly.

Updated 3PDT Breakout Boards

Not as exciting as a new pedal, but the 3PDT Breakout Boards are being updated to make proper soldering easier (and prevent installing the switch the wrong way)

forum.pedalpcb.com

 

[Allthumbs]

Hello, its quite an old thread but I finished my Six String Stinger and although it sounds kind of nice there is very little gain on tap. I noodled around with it yesterday and had to crank the gain all the way in order to get at least a little crunch out of the thing. I already read this thread and added a 2nd 10k resistor to R8 as suggested (so it should be 5k now right?!) but still not a lot of gain. Is this just the way the circuit works or could there be another problem? My J201s are SMDs on adapter-pads so I assume that they should be ok...

Overall it is a low gain design, I believe. Not supposed to produce much but enough to add some harmonics and a bit of gnarl. Try pushing another pedal with it. It allows you to get a great "edge of breakup" sound.

 

[Allthumbs]

Are you sure you are sure this is not due to a poor connection due to the 3pdt board soldering? I don't know why people are soldering them like this but filling them is a normal commercial practice. Just fixed an EHX pedal where every lug was filled.

No it isn't that but After I did this one I became aware of this possiblity. I believe the circuit is really just low gain by design. I'm happy with it now. I use it to push other things just a little bit, a little added tone beef as well. Nothing drastic, always on

 

[bowanderror]

Judging by the photo, it looks like you’ve got a soldering iron with enough heat, but you might be able to improve your connections if you really focus on cleaning the tip between each part that you solder. I noticed a big difference when I moved to a copper coil versus a wet sponge. It’s amazing how fast a layer of oxidation can build up on a soldering iron. I also started using a flux pen and that drastically improved the consistency of my solder joints.

 

[Allthumbs]

Judging by the photo, it looks like you’ve got a soldering iron with enough heat, but you might be able to improve your connections if you really focus on cleaning the tip between each part that you solder. I noticed a big difference when I moved to a copper coil versus a wet sponge. It’s amazing how fast a layer of oxidation can build up on a soldering iron. I also started using a flux pen and that drastically improved the consistency of my solder joints.

I think I use too much heat, frankly. I have one of those tins with a wad of metal coil stuff in it to clean the tip, I tin it each day after use. It pretty much stays shiny all the time. No carbon buildup that I can see. I think backing off the heat will help me.

 

[bowanderror]

Yeah the metal coil thing is exactly what I couldn’t find a name for!

It’s definitely good practice to tin your tip at the end of each work session, but you’re cleaning and re-tinning the tip b/w each joint or several joint as well, right? I usually wipe the tip on both sides and just barely touch a piece of solder wire to coat the tip, making it look shiny and more effectively transfer heat the joint. The oxidation layer is hard to see at first, but a freshly tinned tip will be like a shiny mirror and an oxidized tip will look kinda pale and not smooth. If you’re seeing black carbon build up on the actual tip then you probably need to do a tip renovation or buy a new one.

 

[Nostradoomus]

I use the scrubby pads and a wet sponge (sparingly on the sponge). If the tip gets really gnarly I just take some 1000 grit sandpaper to it

 

[Allthumbs]

Yeah the metal coil thing is exactly what I couldn’t find a name for!

It’s definitely good practice to tin your tip at the end of each work session, but you’re cleaning and re-tinning the tip b/w each joint or several joint as well, right? I usually wipe the tip on both sides and just barely touch a piece of solder wire to coat the tip, making it look shiny and more effectively transfer heat the joint. The oxidation layer is hard to see at first, but a freshly tinned tip will be like a shiny mirror and an oxidized tip will look kinda pale and not smooth. If you’re seeing black carbon build up on the actual tip then you probably need to do a tip renovation or buy a new one.

no, between each session. Hitting the coil thing between each component or group of them. It stays clean and shinny from day 1. I follow a strict 2 second rule, iron to board. no more about 1.5 seconds to heat up the joint, about a half second to apply solder, give or take. Still, I think I can lower the heat a bit, and I am sloppier than I'd like