Ctrl4Smilerz
Well-known member
Why do I see some builds use a single stereo (TRS) jack for a mono pedal? I assume this has to do with grounding but can't the seem thing be achieved with a mono jack?
Stuff you wanted to know but were afraid to ask
- Thread starter spi
- Start date
Can totally be chalked up to what’s available either in personal stash or at the vendors. Less likely the pedal has a battery option and the ring of the TRS connects the power supply ground when the cable is inserted. Helps save on battery life
Edit: if this is in addition to the standard in/out jacks, then the pedal might have expression pedal capabilities
swyse
Well-known member
They cost the same or close enough for me that I usually get stereo jacks because I find they grab more securely with the additional contact.
spi
Well-known member
This allows you to wire it so the battery disconnects when nothing is plugged into the input.
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Oh_Discordia!
Active member
i keep selling my TS's and then forgetting why and buying another, and then realizing that i dont like them and the cycle repeats
Pauleo1214
Well-known member
When the batteries start to go, do you press harder on the remote control?
Feral Feline
Well-known member
SillyOctpuss
Well-known member
When the batteries start to go, do you press harder on the remote control?
No it's best to take them out of the remote and rub them in your hands for a minute or two then reinstall and push the button really hard.
Coda
Well-known member
The EHX 16-Second Delay can do all that. Nels Cline uses one.
I believe Robert Fripp used one (or two) with the later version of Frippertronics too…
Bricksnbeatles
Member known well
He owned the original two-footswitch “16 Second Digital Delay”
The 3-footswitch one is a pseudo-reissue that only has 1000ms of true delay or 16 seconds of plain looping capability.
There’s also not really evidence that he actually ever used one. EHX marketed the og 16 second digital delay as “a Fripp in a box” without any authorization from him, so he requested they give him one for free. They refused, so he bought one, but it never appeared in his live rig. When he moved away from revox tape machines for frippertronics he started using a pair of TC electronics rackmount digital delays. I don’t recall what he initially started using for soundscapes, but it was also a pair of rackmount units.
fig
Village Idiot
Heat?
fig
Village Idiot
Come to think of it, I can answer your question...at least in the case of one melty cap..my own...So many unanswered questions?! I generally solder components on the other side of the board. Am I doing it wrong? I'm starting to question if I'm breathing right at this point
No pot legs in sight! However, I had to re-direct the input wire to the other side of the enclosure and this cap was fairly close (though admittedly not so close it deserved the torture I unleashed upon it) to the wire pad. There's a pic over on my "what's fig destroying this week" (aka Stuff thread..).
Avoidable? Certainly! Apocalyptic? Hardly....but I try not to sweat the small stuff
MichaelW
Well-known member
Depends on where you got them.....see my "Fingers" Build report.....ugh.....found out the hard way. (Note, with the Aion adapters, separate them and don't let them touch.......)
ICTRock
Well-known member
traumatic brain injury
PangeaDestructor
Active member
Was gonna post a question just like this, logged on and the perfect thread is at the top.
How do I tell which IC pins are which on this schematic?
Another one - I'm not seeing 15v anywhere, including where the schematic says 15v. Curious if that's a problem with my build or with my reading of this.
How do I tell which IC pins are which on this schematic?
Another one - I'm not seeing 15v anywhere, including where the schematic says 15v. Curious if that's a problem with my build or with my reading of this.
Attachments
benny_profane
Well-known member
The VFE schematics are pretty barebones. There’s no indication of pin numbering on that schem. The 15v line (I believe) comes from the SPS daughterboard with the jacks, switching, and charge pump. It’s and input to the circuit.
Bricksnbeatles
Member known well
It’s good, and therefore enjoyable. Very easily
fig
Village Idiot
I usually compare the data sheet to the drawing. Vcc and GND, the input (inverting and non-inverting or +/-) and output.
Passinwind
Well-known member
Shaken, not stirred.
spi
Well-known member
For pins you should just refer to the chip's data sheet, it will show you which pins are ins, outs, and powers.
For 15V I assume that it assumes you're using a 15V power supply, because there's no charge pump in the circuit. This circuit should work just fine at 9V, or you could use an external pcb with a charge pump to increase the voltage in (or if you have a pedal power supply that lets you increase voltage you could use that ).
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