Stuff you wanted to know but were afraid to ask

Beyond that, if there's not that convenience of already having that spare part, so to speak, is it a general good idea to go out of the way to implement?
 
I'm not going to the extra trouble but if you're looking for a meaningless upsell, offering pedals with buffered bias voltage just became your Q4 goal. I still can't believe we got that before tap tempo compression.
 
Nic said:
This thread might give you answers or at least clues.
fydo

Thread 'AionFX Monolith - Is my 3P4T daughterboard upside down?'

Hello!

Recently put together this Big Cheese and noticed that the Mode switch was acting odd, until I realized that the order of the modes were reversed to what I was expecting! The original Big Cheese has the cheese mode on the far left and the tone bypass on the far right so I figured it would be the same here. Unfortunately, AionFX doesn't provide switch position labels in their documentation so I don't know if that is intended. It seems more likely that I buggered up something to cause the order of the 3P4T selection to be reversed. So, my questions:

- Has anyone built this before...
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This is the thread that raised my question in the first place since it makes the AionFX versions the opposite of the original pedals and every other clone. My question is not resolved in that thread and still hasn't still hasn’t been answered.

ICTRock said:
hey look! verification of what I just posted. might as well get flagged for unsportsmanlike conduct since football is back ...

the six connections between the rotary board and main board in no particular order ...
one has continuity to ground (pole c)
one has continuity to the middle lug of the tone pot (throws A1-3)
one has continuity to D2 (pole B)
one has continuity to C11(pole A)
one has continuity to C9 (throws B1-2)
one has continuity to R8 (throw C1)

It's like they included a schematic for a reason.
Click to expand...

I must be phrasing my questions poorly. I'll give it another shot. What I cannot reconcile is which detent of the rotary switch corresponds to throw ABC1 as labeled on the schematic. It could be full-CCW or it could be full-CW. The rotary datasheet doesn't list which rotary positions correspond to which holes (1-12) on the switch and the build docs don’t confirm one way or the other. Knowing the six header connections and the pole wiring doesn't resolve the issue either. I've asked the manufacturer of the PCB, read every build report and thread on this forum that mentions either of these pedals, reached out to builders via PM, and there is still no clear answer on this issue. I appreciate that you've spent some time on this, but this doesn't seem like a question that can be answered by someone who isn't @aion or who doesn't have the rotary switch to test for continutity.
 
ICTRock said:
it's going to be super relevant since the needed switch is a 3P4T

let's end the day on this. there's only four throws which means that the switch only has four positions. if you've been told that cheese mode is position 1 and you've been told that position 4 is off and that the rotation is clockwise then there's nothing more to figure out here.
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I think they are trying to verify that clockwise counts up and not down
 
apierz said:
I'm designing the artwork, but I can't get a clear answer on which direction the 4 modes on the rotary switches are ordered. I've asked Aion but haven't heard back and there doesn't seem to be a clear answer among the build reports and forums posts. Can anyone whose built these circuits confirm if this is the right order or if I need to reverse my labels?
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hehehe
 
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Yes, a DMM in continuity mode should show the positions.
A-1, B-1, C-1 connected when full CCW as seen from above facing the stem as in the last picture just above.
Next hack towards CW connects A-2, B-2 and C-2
And so on.
You can also make a continuity check with the schematic and the pcb to sort of verify the schematic.
The 1-6 on the daughterboard and the pcb should match, but you can do a continuity check as well to verify which of the 1-6 goes to A-C,1-4 respectively, but hopefully not needed if Aion did their pcb correct.
It is actually a good exercise and I find the continuity/beep of DMM to be my best friend when deciphering PCBs and build.
Still I do have pedals where the decal does not match the switches or pots :LOL:...
 
apierz said:
Ah dang :ROFLMAO:. I bit the bullet and ordered two of the 3p4t rotary switches from stomp box parts. I'll solder them in and continuity test when they arrive. Thanks all.
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You can do a lot of continuity testing before you get them though.
Map out where 1-6 go and get aquainted with the schematic-pcb interaction.
 
Matopotato said:
You can do a lot of continuity testing before you get them though.
Map out where 1-6 go and get aquainted with the schematic-pcb interaction.
Click to expand...
Yeah, I think I have a good handle on the six daughter board connections. I'll do the same for the Obelisk and probably try to put all the stuff from my notes in a build report when it's all buttoned up. The black box is Aion's schematic labeling. There's evidence that schematic ABC1 is full-CW on the rotary (that would match the original pedal and the 1,2,3,4 labeling on the picture of his demo build), and evidence that ABC1 is full-CCW (troubleshooting reports and best guesses from the rotary data sheet).
 
A1 should be full CCW and A4 should be full CW as seen from above looking at the shaft.
Does the A or the 1 when full CCW go to one of 1-6 on the daughterboard?
If so, the same number but on the PCB should either go to C11 cap or Tone pot pin 2?
If you are able to map 1-6 to letter/number on the 3P4T daughterboard then that ought to help. I think.
(I am nearing where I would need the physical parts in front of me though)
I am thinking 1-6 should be possible to map to R8, C9, R19/R20 Tonepin 2, C11, ground or R19/C8/R10/D2/Q3. But that is 7 so not sure without a board at hand....
Not sure I am helping any...

Edit: You can temporarily loosely jumper A and 1, just to see what connects where. That would mimic the 3P4T in full CCW position.
Not sure what is "Off, 1, 2, or cheese", but doc says Off is Tone bypass, and my guess that is A4 (along with B4 and C4 of course).
So from pure theory perspective I would guess Full CW is Off, and then the go in order to cheese in ABC1 position...
Makes sense perhaps when Cheese is using the trimmer and only position when trimmer is connected is C1, which would support the idea that fully CCW is cheese. And I would be quite surprised if modes "1" and "2" came out of order...
 
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