Tayda print and drill coordinates

[Fama]

Hello!

I've now had a set of enclosures printed and drilled at Tayda, and the results were pretty good. For normal use like that I've just used the "snipping tool" to copy the drill tool preview image to Illustrator to get the approximate locations of the pot holes correct, and that was just fine.

For an upcoming enclosure I was planning on doing a Moody Sounds Zeygot fuzz which apparently has a toggleable (depending on your build) mode where the fuzz oscillates unless you cover and LDR on the pedal's surface. I thought this was a very cool idea, and was inspired to do an "all seeing eye" style enclosure for it. However, I would like the LDR to be right in the, well, eye.

My question is, is the origin point on the drill tool and the print template exactly the same? As in, if the hole is at 0, -15 on the drill tool, if I put a guide circle for the same size (using the ellipse tool, handy for that) in the print file, align it horizontally and vertically (so that it's right at 0, 0) and then move it 15 millimeters down, does it line up perfectly?

I suspect it's at least pretty close, but comparing one of my prints I think it's possibly not exactly at the same spot. A small error wouldn't be too bad, but it's sort of going to ruin the theme if it misses the mark a bunch. Anyone have experience with this, or should I maybe email Tayda about it?

 

[Bricksnbeatles]

I’d email Tayda about it. It should be close, but they do claim to have a margin of error of up to 1.5mm or something like that…
One of the prints I received recently was offset by probably 2mm or so

 

[mkstewartesq]

Setting aside their stated margin for deviation, in my experience, the coordinnates are exactly the same on the drill template and the art. I always use the coordinates for the drill template when doing my art and the results have always been spot on (in my case, I’ve been lucky and the “drift“ due to their stated allowance for deviation when drilling has been rare and quite small - never more than a millimeter).

M

 

[Fama]

Right, their stated margin of deviation (for drilling - nothing stated for printing, where it arguably wouldn't make much sense either) is:

***TOLERANCE +/- 0.5MM. (Face)
***TOLERANCE +/- 1MM (SIDES)

So since I want a 6,6mm hole (6,4mm as per the LED lampshade protector + 0,2mm for the powder coating), I'll just make sure my artwork would work with a 7,1mm hole and I should be fine I think. I'm fairly sure the coordinates work identically, but I'll wait for confirmation from Tayda before ordering. Thanks for the help!

 

[Passinwind]

I’d email Tayda about it. It should be close, but they do claim to have a margin of error of up to 1.5mm or something like that…
One of the prints I received recently was offset by probably 2mm or so

I just got in two like this:



Since it was powder coated after drilling I was already going to have to file those holes a little...

 

[mkstewartesq]

I just got in two like this:

View attachment 47868

Since it was powder coated after drilling I was already going to have to file those holes a little...

That’s about usually where mine end up as well. Close, but not absolutely perfect. So I took the advice that someone posted in the general Tayda UV printing thread to not make design elements that are dependent on drill spacing too tight as far as specifications. I still do design elements around the drill holes but far enough away that minor drift in the drilling won’t be too noticeable.


Mike

 

[Passinwind]

That’s about usually where mine end up as well. Close, but not absolutely perfect. So I took the advice that someone posted in the general Tayda UV printing thread to not make design elements that are dependent on drill spacing too tight as far as specifications. I still do design elements around the drill holes but far enough away that minor drift in the drilling won’t be too noticeable.


Mike

Yep, that's what I've always done up to now too. Several years ago I used a very spendy custom enclosure vendor for a bass amp build and they advised me to back off my UV print expectations and go with engraved/infilled graphics (i.e. Front Panel Express) if I want high precision. OTOH, the powdercoat itself is pretty nice, although the Champagne one had one subtle fingerprint looking spot. For what these things cost I'm perfectly fine with "pretty good, not perfect."

 

[vigilante398]

I always oversize my holes so there is a little bit of "slop" to move the bits around in order to line up hardware with graphics. I do this both with Tayda and at home, it allows for a clumsy assembler like myself to more easily make something somewhat professional looking.

 

[Fama]

FWIW the eye where I put the LDR was perfect, the hole was literally right where I had planned it to be. It's in the build threads - but I also planned for it to have a little bit of leeway in every direction.

 

[Passinwind]

I always oversize my holes so there is a little bit of "slop" to move the bits around in order to line up hardware with graphics. I do this both with Tayda and at home, it allows for a clumsy assembler like myself to more easily make something somewhat professional looking.

By the time I hogged the powdercoat out of the holes it took very little additional work to make everything line up pretty well.

 

[vigilante398]

By the time I hogged the powdercoat out of the holes it took very little additional work to make everything line up pretty well.

That's because you plan better than I do

 

[Passinwind]

That's because you plan better than I do

It was totally beginner’s luck, this is actually the first proper pedal build I’ve ever done. I learned a ton from all the non proper ones though!

 

[vigilante398]

It was totally beginner’s luck, this is actually the first proper pedal build I’ve ever done. I learned a ton from all the non proper ones though!

Which I assume means all the previous excellent builds I've seen you post were just practice, and that makes me feel even worse

 

[Passinwind]

Which I assume means all the previous excellent builds I've seen you post were just practice, and that makes me feel even worse

Thanks, but all those older ones were modular, and incredibly time consuming due to all the outboard wiring and tweaky sub-enclosures. I was basically throwing fairly high end homemade onboard bass preamps in expensive boxes, which is pretty daft really. Someone else actually started this DIYer's econo through-hole project for Tayda parts, but using my design. Couldn't help myself from jumping in and doing my own layout, and of cousre tweaking the circuit parameters as I went. Selling a few of these things could maybe even make sense now, but of course that never stopped me before!

 

[Fama]

I just got in two like this:

View attachment 47868

Since it was powder coated after drilling I was already going to have to file those holes a little...

Yeah, not amazingly tight, but if you make the holes a bit bigger than needed for a pot (since the washer will be large enough for it to not be an issue anyway) it shouldn't be an issue. With something like clipping LED's as part of the graphic (which I'm planning to try at some point) it's a bit more important I think, but even then you just have to design the graphic so that it doesn't really matter quite where the holes exactly are.

 

[Passinwind]

Yeah, not amazingly tight, but if you make the holes a bit bigger than needed for a pot (since the washer will be large enough for it to not be an issue anyway) it shouldn't be an issue. With something like clipping LED's as part of the graphic (which I'm planning to try at some point) it's a bit more important I think, but even then you just have to design the graphic so that it doesn't really matter quite where the holes exactly are.

Here's how it came out, it took maybe three minutes to clean out the powder coat with a hand held step bit and then I grabbed a little rasp and a few file strokes per hole was all that was needed to center the holes right up. I'm using 15mm knobs so even as it came it wouldn't have been bad at all.