This Week on the Breadboard: The Dark Esbat

Chuck D. Bones

Circuit Wizard
The production version is known as the Black Country Customs TI Boost. As endorsed by Tony Iommi.

Tony Iommi 01.jpg

The TI Boost is a slightly modded TC Electronics Spark Boost. I breadboarded a stock version, then started stripping out unnecessary parts, fiddling a few component values, and here's the result. I did not try to match the Dark Esbat ref des; too many changes.

The 1st stage in the TCE Spark Boost & BCC TI Boost is a 32KHz 2nd-order low-pass filter. My philosophy is "why use 10 parts when 2 will do?" so I ditched the 1st stage. R2 & C2 provide all the input filtering we need. We also don't need a Vref buffer, so that's another opamp gone. TCE uses the OPA2134. That's a very good FET-input dual opamp. BCC uses the MC33178, which is a good BJT dual opamp. I went with the good ol' TL072. Any of them will work in this circuit. The MID switch selects between a 10dB bump at 500Hz, a 9dB bump at 800Hz or a flat freq response in what is now the 1st stage. These mid bumps are broad and create a strong mid presence. Not satisfied with the Flat setting, I added R6 & C6 which make a 4dB bump at 1KHz when the MID switch is in the middle position. I wanted more available gain, so I changed the DRIVE pot to C250K, increased R10 to 220K and reduced C8 to 47pF. C7 does not need to be 10uF, 1uF lets plenty of bass thru. I got rid of the coupling caps before and after the VOLUME pot and returned pin 1 of the VOLUME pot to Vref. To avoid disturbing Vref, I increased R11 to 10K and the VOLUME pot to A100K. The original VOLUME pot was B-taper, more on that later. When DRIVE is dialed-down for clean boost, the output level barely gets above 1Vp-p. To fix that, I increased the gain of the 3rd stage by 11dB. Since the VOLUME control is ahead of the 3rd stage, we can always back off on VOLUME if we crank DRIVE in order to avoid overdriving the last two stages. If you always dime DRIVE, then there is no need to increase the gain of the 3rd stage. C11 does not need to be 10uF, so I replaced it with a 2.2uF film. I also tried 1uF and jumpering C11. They all worked well. With C1 jumpered, the output might scratch a tiny bit when turning the BASS pot, so I opted to keep C11. The tone stack and last stage are unchanged ,except for increasing R19 from 100Ω to 1K for better protection of the last stage. Because Vref is no longer buffered, I reduced the impedance of the Vref divider (R21, R22 & C17). This modded version does everything the Esbat does, but has more gain available, higher output available and a lot fewer parts. Don't get me wrong, the Dark Esbat & Spark Boost are great pedals. Depending on how you intend to use this pedal, B-taper might have a better feel for the VOLUME pot. With the increased gain in the 3rd stage, A-taper is recommended. If you like to dime DRIVE, then keep the 3rd stage gain at or near stock. For extra output, run this pedal at 18V. Make sure you use 25V or higher electrolytic caps.

A reminder - this pedal does not make Tony's Black Sabbath tone on it's own. You have to use it to overdrive an amp or amp emulator. Rock On!

Black Country Customs TI-Boost cb mod v0.1.1.png
L-R: VOLUME - TREBLE - BASS - DRIVE - MIDS

TI Boost cb mod v0.1.1 breadboard 02.jpg
 
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How does the clipping feel to you when you use the pedal as an OD? The Iommi sounded a bit harsh to me so I used just two pairs of diodes on a second one I built. Is it any smoother on this new version? It does make an excellent booster.
 
Which headphone amp are you using? This pedal (technically, the Ember Boost), in overdrive mode, always sounded particularly bad through my DSM Simplifier.
I have built the Ember boost as per PPCB project and schematic and didn't like it initially as well, thought it sounded not like the original and yes, bad.
After some trouble shooting and help from the forum I removed C19 / 1n (referring to Ember schematic here, not Esbat boost) it made ALL. THE. DIFFERENCE.
Sounded great then for me using it through normal amp rig (I haven't used it through any sims). I would recommend trying that in yours as well.
Also I might add: I asked Robert way back to make the Ember pcb from a Madbean schematic, that might have been not accurate to original. It wasn't a trace from original by Robert (I believe), so maybe that's where the hiccup in Ember Boost comes from.
For me it's a goodie pedal, without the C19 that is.
Edit: sorry I didn't want to derail this thread, just wanted to give a quick nudge as the two circuits are similar.
 
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I would agree that the Ember Boost's C19 (Esbat C20) is too large at 1nF. It chokes off some of the presence above 10KHz. Black Country Customs also reduced C6 (same ref des in both pedals), which brightens up the gain stage.

The headphones amp I use for testing pedals is one of my own designs. It's a simple stereo amplifier with no tone shaping. What goes in one jack comes out the other, just louder.
 
After some trouble shooting and help from the forum I removed C19 / 1n (referring to Ember schematic here, not Esbat boost) it made ALL. THE. DIFFERENCE.
...
Edit: sorry I didn't want to derail this thread, just wanted to give a quick nudge as the two circuits are similar.

Lol, I was actually derailing the thread, as I was curious about the headphone amp! I think the Ember Boost sounds great through a real amp, but it (and many other dirt pedals) sound like poo through my headphone amp.

FWIW, here's my Ember Boost build report. I read all the threads before I built it, so I left C19 out in my initial build, and also reduced C10 from 1nF to 100pF. I had an actual Spark Boost to compare it with side-by-side. It wasn't exact, but certainly close enough.

My backlog is a thousand pedals long, but someday I would like to get around to building Chuck's simplified version.
 
I'm confused - C20 in the Dark Esbat according to Robert's schematic is 270pF. Whatever - I never found it too dark.

I'd love something which did more or less the same job with about 1/3 of the parts. I built a "Brian May Boost Deluxe" on Vero which sounds amazing, is a tiny little circuit as a treble booster should be but is rather noisy. Something between the two would be cool!
 
I'm confused - C20 in the Dark Esbat according to Robert's schematic is 270pF. Whatever - I never found it too dark.
I'm not buying it. C2 at 270pF lowers the signal by 1dB at 20KHz with TREBLE dimed. It's about 0.5dB with TREBLE at noon. Your dog might hear that, but I seriously doubt that you can.

I'd love something which did more or less the same job with about 1/3 of the parts. I built a "Brian May Boost Deluxe" on Vero which sounds amazing, is a tiny little circuit as a treble booster should be but is rather noisy. Something between the two would be cool!
Have you tried the Celestial Boost? Not 1/3 of the parts, but definitely less than the Esbat.

https://forum.pedalpcb.com/threads/this-week-on-the-breadboard-the-celestial-boost.16843/
 
Oh I'm not saying that I can hear it! I'm just saying that C20 in the schematic I see is 270pF. You said it was 1nF. Hence my confusion!

I have looked at the Celestial Boost and am quite tempted to try it. But the JFET measuring malarky is beyond me. I love what JFETs can do, but struggle with them. In things like Rats and Honey Bees I'm ok because they seem to just work. Biasing I can do when pushed. But beyond that I'll stick to ICs!
 
My bad, I misread your previous post. Apologies.

In the Ember Boost that feedback cap in the tone circuit is 1nF, which would make the tone darker.
 
I have looked at the Celestial Boost and am quite tempted to try it. But the JFET measuring malarky is beyond me. I love what JFETs can do, but struggle with them. In things like Rats and Honey Bees I'm ok because they seem to just work. Biasing I can do when pushed. But beyond that I'll stick to ICs!
I'm not a jfet master like Chuck, but I can help you with the fet measuring process if you want. Shoot me a PM if you want to do it
 
A winning combination - CB mod TI Boost into the Headbanger Marshall Emulator.

The Black Box + Headbanger 02.jpg

I replaced the TI Boost's MID switch with a MID knob (purple). Goes from flat to +12dB mid boost centered at 500Hz. As I turn the MID knob down, the mid boost is reduced and shifted to higher freq. At 9:00, the boost is 6dB centered at 1KHz. I had to rebuild the breadboard because the protoboard was warped and intermittent. Caused much swearing.
 
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