TPA3118 60W Power Amp Module

[fopoman]

How can I add an on/off power switch with indicator led.... to the tpa3118 board? I apologize

 

[Paul.Ruby]

How can I add an on/off power switch with indicator led.... to the tpa3118 board? I apologize

You mean a mute switch or a power switch? My preamp boards all have some form of mute with an LED to indicate if on or off. A power switch can be added in series with the incoming power from the jack and an LED, with resistor, on the other side of the switch.

 

[fopoman]

Just a simple power on switch... thank you Paul.

 

[Rattle&Hum]

Hello all! Dropping into to thank you all (special thanks to @Willybomb and @Paul.Ruby) for all the helpful information and contribute my recent build.

My main tube-based rig is a Helix (as a pedalboard) -> Bad Cat Cub 15R head -> Matchless ESS112 (H75 Creamback-equipped). When impractical to haul the amp head, I use Matchless (and some Marshall) amp models (without IR) and the power section of a Quilter Superblock US to power the Matchless cabinet with great results. When I do run direct, the IRs I use are remarkably similar to my cabinet (York Audio Matchless IRs). From what I read on here and The Gear Page, the 3118 amps looked like a great option as a leave-in power amp for the cabinet and I couldn't be happier so far.

Notes and observations:

1) With my Helix's output set to Line Level, there is PLENTY of volume on tap. It is louder than the Quilter Superblock at full voltage/volume and sounds just as good. Anyone reporting lower-than-expected volume is using the wrong input signal (level, impedance, or both), imposter 3118 board or error in their construction. I ordered mine from this seller and both boards are legit 32-pin boards.

2) I used the schematic posted earlier in this thread. I added a power switch and LED but omitted the 200nF input DC filter cap. 50K Log taper volume pot is just right. I am using a 35V 4700uF capacitor to let me safely use a 24V 3A power supply. I've used my Quilter's 24V 3A supply (reads exactly 24V output) as well as the Amazon supply (output measures 24.4V).

3) I replaced the standard 1/4" input jack of the cabinet with a shunted jack. Unplugged, the amp is directly connected to the speaker. When another amp is plugged in, the 3118 amp is disconnected automatically.

4) Hammond enclosure is 1590WXXFLBK

5) I wanted a discrete install but able to access the switches/knob easily from the front (power and standby switches are same placement and distance apart as my Bad Cat). Because the input jack is vertical, I used a PureTone jack for the extra grip/security.

6) I also built an adapter to use a standard 2.1mm 9V center-negative power supply with it - like the Quilter. Quilter claims it yields about 1W w/ 8-ohm speaker. The TPA3118 board with 9V is very similar - very usable in smaller quieter settings and more than enough juice for home practice.

Great little build that's lived up to the hype. I'm building one to install in my Suhr Bella cabinet, as well.

 

[fopoman]

Hello all! Dropping into to thank you all (special thanks to @Willybomb and @Paul.Ruby) for all the helpful information and contribute my recent build.

My main tube-based rig is a Helix (as a pedalboard) -> Bad Cat Cub 15R head -> Matchless ESS112 (H75 Creamback-equipped). When impractical to haul the amp head, I use Matchless (and some Marshall) amp models (without IR) and the power section of a Quilter Superblock US to power the Matchless cabinet with great results. When I do run direct, the IRs I use are remarkably similar to my cabinet (York Audio Matchless IRs). From what I read on here and The Gear Page, the 3118 amps looked like a great option as a leave-in power amp for the cabinet and I couldn't be happier so far.

Notes and observations:

1) With my Helix's output set to Line Level, there is PLENTY of volume on tap. It is louder than the Quilter Superblock at full voltage/volume and sounds just as good. Anyone reporting lower-than-expected volume is using the wrong input signal (level, impedance, or both), imposter 3118 board or error in their construction. I ordered mine from this seller and both boards are legit 32-pin boards.

2) I used the schematic posted earlier in this thread. I added a power switch and LED but omitted the 200nF input DC filter cap. 50K Log taper volume pot is just right. I am using a 35V 4700uF capacitor to let me safely use a 24V 3A power supply. I've used my Quilter's 24V 3A supply (reads exactly 24V output) as well as the Amazon supply (output measures 24.4V).

3) I replaced the standard 1/4" input jack of the cabinet with a shunted jack. Unplugged, the amp is directly connected to the speaker. When another amp is plugged in, the 3118 amp is disconnected automatically.

4) Hammond enclosure is 1590WXXFLBK

5) I wanted a discrete install but able to access the switches/knob easily from the front (power and standby switches are same placement and distance apart as my Bad Cat). Because the input jack is vertical, I used a PureTone jack for the extra grip/security.

Great little build that's lived up to the hype. I'm building one to install in my Suhr Bella cabinet, as well. About to build an adapter to be able to use standard center-negative 9V power supplies like the Quilter can do (for lower wattage output, of course).

Awesome build!