Two Delegate compressors, ready to rock. (One 1590bb, one 125b, both Boneyard modded.)

[xefned]

Build Rating

4.00 star(s)

My friend Nate hipped me to the existence of the Delegate compressor, so I built one for each of us.
His guitarist needs a compressor badly. I need another compressor like I need a hole in the head.

Inkjet sticker on top. I'm not proud.



1590bb version. Using my backstock of blem 1590bbs. Painted with hammer-tone spray paint, which is my favorite part.



Oblig gut shot. Still using up old 1776 3PDT PCBs from years ago.




White LED scuffed with sandpaper for better diffusion.

 

[Mentaltossflycoon]

Is that rattle can?

 

[xefned]

Nate wasn't having any of those big dooky enclosures even though I offered him one FOR FREE.
You know, to SAVE MONEY and shit. Just a reminder for me that almost everyone has a strong preference for smaller enclosures. I should probably liquidate my bucket of 1590bbs and stock up on 125bs.

He's still stuck with my low-rent inkjet sticker.




Cool blue LED.




I'm a convert to the PedalPCB standard in a 125b enclosure, with the jacks at the top.
It went together so nicely. I'm doing everything this way now.

If it'll fit in a 125b, that's what I'm using from now on.




But I need a better way to do these 4 short wires. This was the hardest part.
Maybe I'll try solid core next time. Or ribbon cable.



This is also my first time using PedalPCB 3PDT PCBs. They're awesome because you can grip the switch to tighten the nut without putting pressure on the PCB. They might be the only switch PCB where the PCB doesn't stick out beyond the edges of the switch. Pads were a little small for the wire I'm using here so I'll try some thinner wire next time.


My impressions: Great compressor. But too many fucking knobs.

P.S.: “Nichicon” capacitors from Tayda are counterfeit. I used 'em anyway because I needed some 1µFs quick. But heads up; don't pay extra expecting genuine Nichicons.

 

[xefned]

Is that rattle can?

Yep, just Krylon from Menards. It will probably chip and look terrible in time because I didn't spray any protection gloss layer.

 

[Mentaltossflycoon]

Looks great now and will look great "distressed"

 

[jimilee]

Very nice. I built one, but I’m with you, too many knobs. I do like the pedal PCBlayout with the jacks on top. My designs are heavily influenced by his.

 

[peccary]

Looks great! That decal looks awesome as well.

I solder solid core to the PCB and then slide the foot switch down, get it tightened up and then solder it in. It makes that whole process much easier.

 

[xefned]

Looks great! That decal looks awesome as well.

Thanks!

I solder solid core to the PCB and then slide the foot switch down, get it tightened up and then solder it in. It makes that whole process much easier.

Great tip, thank you. I'll try that method next time.

 

[fig]

Nice work!

I use bus wire or pin headers between the pcb and footswitch. @peccary 's method works really well.

 

[mjh36]

What's up with the nichicons? Because I think I got some arriving in the mail today from Tayda...

 

[xefned]

What's up with the nichicons? Because I think I got some arriving in the mail today from Tayda...

Well, they nailed the Nichicon font perfectly. But you'll know from looking at the tops and the bottoms that they're not.

I ordered 1µF. YMMV with other values, but probably not.

 

[Dan M]

Nice builds

What LDR’s did you use and why did you bend and wrap the second set?

Delegate is on my list so I’ve been reading up on the completed builds for any tips.

 

[xefned]

Thanks man.
I used a combination of GL5516 and LTW-2R3D7.

You don't need to wrap them. But eventually, you'll stumble upon my troubleshooting questions where I forgot to test in a dark room.
It was dumb. I must've tried 5 different LEDs. Not necessary. The second one went together much easier once Chuck reminded me of that.

You could also just test it in a dark room and not bang your head against a wall wondering why your LED wasn't lighting up.

 

[nkt$275]

Too many knobs ? ? ?
I don’t think so. The ability to control these parameters is absolutely wonderful.
Case in point. Bogner Lyndhurst.
Having a fixed release really is an obstacle.
The three tone positions are all brighter than the bypass signal. Interesting enough there are two unpopulated positions on the board to control these functions. 1. Release/Potentiometer and 2. Empty cap labeled “Dark/Flat”. The actual compression is nice BUT limited due to the above. So when I finish my current PedalPCB group builds - I will build a couple Delegate compressors. I look forward to SO many knobs !
Nice builds by the way ! ( ;

 

[xefned]

Too many knobs ? ? ?
I don’t think so. The ability to control these parameters is absolutely wonderful.
Case in point. Bogner Lyndhurst.
… I look forward to SO many knobs !

Haha, yes. My friend Nate will love it. He's a studio engineer so the more control, the better.

I'm concerned that his guitarist won't know how to use it or won't fully understand what a compressor does to his signal. But even if that is the case, he'll still love the fact that it's a killer clean boost and a treble boost. There's a lot to love here.

Nice builds by the way ! ( ;

Thanks!

 

[mjh36]

Well, they nailed the Nichicon font perfectly. But you'll know from looking at the tops and the bottoms that they're not.

I ordered 1µF. YMMV with other values, but probably not.

I looked through my stuff and I do have some Nichicon 1uf just like yours, but I don't know what the top and bottom should look like. Is it that they should have those indentations in the metal on top of the can as opposed to a plain flat top?

 

[nkt$275]

What is the difference between the Delegate compressor and the Boneyard edition ?

 

[xefned]

I looked through my stuff and I do have some Nichicon 1uf just like yours, but I don't know what the top and bottom should look like. Is it that they should have those indentations in the metal on top of the can as opposed to a plain flat top?

Sorry, I didn't mean to disregard your question.
The clearest indication is that Nichicon caps have a black plasticized rubber bung in the bottom where the electrodes come out.

This has been true for every value of Nichicon I've bought from 1µF to 10,000µF over more than 2 decades.



As far as the top goes, missing the indentations is common on small-value electrolytics like 1µF so that's not a warning sign. The difference in the top is harder to describe except the jacket is weirdly loose and wavy on the top.

At this point, I'm not even mad about it. Just surprised I would have any trust at all. The first time I received fake caps was in 2004, from Futurlec. I've only ordered caps from Digikey and Mouser since then. This was my one slip up.

 

[xefned]

What is the difference between the Delegate compressor and the Boneyard edition ?

Probably no real audible difference, but the Boneyard edition has numerous performance improvements.

If you haven't bought your PCB yet, just go with the Boneyard edition. I'm convinced that Chuck's improvements are significant enough that you'll regret going with the original unless you're dead set on reproducing a circuit on the verge of a nervous breakdown.

 

[spi]

What is the difference between the Delegate compressor and the Boneyard edition ?

It's been boned by chuck.