UniCab

Pedal2222 said:
Between 325 °C and 345 °C. But, the higher the temperature, the faster the pace of work. I prefer higher temperatures and short soldering times. It's all a matter of practice.
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About 653 degrees fehrenheit, then...that’s about what I’ve been doing.

So @Pedal2222 there’s no risk at that temperature, then, of damaging components? I only ask as I did recently notice upon DE-soldering some components from a PCB how freakin’ HOT those little 6mm long resistors would get when I pinched them between my fingers. Kinda made me fear for their well-being.

I supppose that skinny .5mm soldering wire you recommend helps one get-in-and-get-out a good bit more quickly, though...yes?
 
Pedal2222 said:
Thanks! I'm ordering my components mostly from banzaimusic.com in berlin (germany). I enjoy the time building my pedals. For a good result I always take my time.
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I am relatively new to all of this, but this is how it is for me as well. I've found that it's almost meditative to build pedals. I try to take my time, work clean, and all that (though I haven't yet developed the skills to work *that* clean yet). It is really nice to be able to focus on something so completely that everything else falls aside. I spent most of the day in the garage last Sunday finishing up a pedal and didn't even realize that I hadn't eaten all day. I missed getting lost in things in that way.
 
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Caldo71 said:
About 653 degrees fehrenheit, then...that’s about what I’ve been doing.

So @Pedal2222 there’s no risk at that temperature, then, of damaging components? I only ask as I did recently notice upon DE-soldering some components from a PCB how freakin’ HOT those little 6mm long resistors would get when I pinched them between my fingers. Kinda made me fear for their well-being.

I supppose that skinny .5mm soldering wire you recommend helps one get-in-and-get-out a good bit more quickly, though...yes?
Click to expand...
Yes, that's why I always keep the soldering process short. Professionally manufactured circuit boards are immersed in a bath of liquid solder. The solder flows better at higher temperatures (just as important as the flux). These are my experiences. I've been working like this for over 10 years with no problems. No destroyed components or failing devices.

P.S: The 0.5mm solder wire works best with these tiny PCB holes. You have a better control about the amount of solder.
 
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peccary said:
I am relatively new to all of this, but this is how it is for me as well. I've found that it's almost meditative to build pedals. I try to take my time, work clean, and all that (though I don't haven't yet developed the skills to work *that* clean yet). It is really nice to be able to focus on something so completely that everything else falls aside. I spent most of the day in the garage last Sunday finishing up a pedal and didn't even realize that I hadn't eaten all day. I missed getting lost in things in that way.
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It' exactly like that! Well described, that's how I experience it, every time..(y)
 
Caldo71 said:
About 653 degrees fehrenheit, then...that’s about what I’ve been doing.

So @Pedal2222 there’s no risk at that temperature, then, of damaging components? I only ask as I did recently notice upon DE-soldering some components from a PCB how freakin’ HOT those little 6mm long resistors would get when I pinched them between my fingers. Kinda made me fear for their well-being.

I supppose that skinny .5mm soldering wire you recommend helps one get-in-and-get-out a good bit more quickly, though...yes?
Click to expand...
The temperature of the iron is almost irrelevant once past the solder melting point. It really comes down to the length of time the tip is on the board/component. 300-350c (close to your temperature) for 3 seconds is all you really need. After 3 seconds (I usually count to myself) and it's still not flowing let the part cool down for a moment then restart. In my experience I may need another few seconds for, say, the jacks or pots. It's about finding the minimum amount of heating time for maximum solder flow and is learned from trial and error. Oh, and the choice of solder tip is big too. The pointer, the better.
 
BuddytheReow said:
The temperature of the iron is almost irrelevant once past the solder melting point. It really comes down to the length of time the tip is on the board/component. 300-350c (close to your temperature) for 3 seconds is all you really need. After 3 seconds (I usually count to myself) and it's still not flowing let the part cool down for a moment then restart. In my experience I may need another few seconds for, say, the jacks or pots. It's about finding the minimum amount of heating time for maximum solder flow and is learned from trial and error. Oh, and the choice of solder tip is big too. The pointer, the better.
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Yes, but I heat the circuit board contact mainly, not the component. It takes a second for the solder to flow in properly. I'm not looking for the lowest temperature, just for the best work result. As short as possible, but as long as necessary. That's my approach.
 
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Pedal2222 said:
Yes, but I heat the circuit board contact mainly, not the component. It takes a second for the solder to flow in properly. I'm not looking for the lowest temperature, just for the best work result. As short as possible, but as long as necessary. That's my approach.
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Ideally you should be heating up both simultaneously to prevent cold joints. However, it’s trial and error to determine what is best approach for everyone
 
BuddytheReow said:
Ideally you should be heating up both simultaneously to prevent cold joints. However, it’s trial and error to determine what is best approach for everyone
Click to expand...
When the solder flows, I always automatically press the soldering tip gently against the component wire. Anyway, I try to avoid the component "boiling" for 3 seconds. I wouldn't feel comfortable with that. To this day, I haven't made any cold solder joints. To be honest, I'd prefer to re-solder those cold joints instead of pushing all components to the limit. But, everything can of course be improved or optimized. Thank you for your contribution.(y)
 
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Perfect! There is nothing more to say.

I need to ask something about this pedal: Is there a volume control?
I built a veroboard version, and the pedal has no way of reducing or bringing the volume to zero.
 
taxfree said:
Perfect! There is nothing more to say.

I need to ask something about this pedal: Is there a volume control?
I built a veroboard version, and the pedal has no way of reducing or bringing the volume to zero.
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The unicab pedal has no volume control. The original OmniCabSimDeluxe has a volume control for the headphone output only. It's a recording tool, no real need for a VC. If you need one, just add a pot to the output signal. Try a A-100K, if you can't get the volume down to zero, try a pot with a higher resistance until it fits. However, if the A100K is already cutting too much signal, decrease the resistance.

P.S.: Maybe there's a member here who can do the math exactly for us ... :p
 
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Pedal2222 said:
O pedal unicab não tem controle de volume. O OmniCabSimDeluxe original possui um controle de volume apenas para a saída de fone de ouvido. É uma ferramenta de gravação, sem necessidade real de um VC. Se precisar de um, basta adicionar um potenciômetro ao sinal de saída. Experimente um A-100K, se você não conseguir baixar o volume a zero, tente um pote com uma resistência maior até que caiba. No entanto, se o A100K já estiver cortando muito sinal, diminua a resistência.

PS: Talvez haja um membro aqui que possa fazer as contas exatamente para nós ... : p
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thanks
 
I'm pretty sure my dentist tools are not as clean as this pedal...

I hesitate between "labor of love or "disturbing obsession". Nah, I will just say nice work!

:)
 
Pedal2222 said:
When the solder flows, I always automatically press the soldering tip gently against the component wire. Anyway, I try to avoid the component "boiling" for 3 seconds. I wouldn't feel comfortable with that. To this day, I haven't made any cold solder joints. To be honest, I'd prefer to re-solder those cold joints instead of pushing all components to the limit. But, everything can of course be improved or optimized. Thank you for your contribution.(y)
Click to expand...
Thank you @BuddytheReow and @Pedal2222 for the soldering technique tips that was magnificent.
 
Fantastic work! Are you socketing the resistor because it's the resistor for the LED as well? Where do you get your ribbon cable from? And do you prefer solid core wire for your off-board connections?
 
IPv6Freely said:
Fantastic work! Are you socketing the resistor because it's the resistor for the LED as well? Where do you get your ribbon cable from? And do you prefer solid core wire for your off-board connections?
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Many Thanks! Yes, that's right, I'm using a socket for the LED resistor. It's easier to change the brightness if necessary. I got the ribbon cable from ebay. I didn't use single core cable for my off-board connections, but it can be useful.
 
Pedal2222 said:
Many Thanks! Yes, that's right, I'm using a socket for the LED resistor. It's easier to change the brightness if necessary. I got the ribbon cable from ebay. I didn't use single core cable for my off-board connections, but it can be useful.
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Thank you! Could you share a link?
 
Pedal2222 said:
www.ebay.de

Steckverbinder: Flachbkabel R. Flachk: 2,54mm L: 25,4mm 8-1437139-4 FFC (FPC) | eBay

Entdecken Sie Steckverbinder: Flachbkabel R. Flachk: 2,54mm L: 25,4mm 8-1437139-4 FFC (FPC) in der großen Auswahl bei eBay. Kostenlose Lieferung für viele Artikel!
www.ebay.de
There are different lengths and numbers of connections available.
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Aha! That gave me the information I needed as far as what to search for. Found it domestically:
 
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