What’s on *YOUR* workbench?

Tip of the day: don't order 10 drilled and printed enclosures from Tayda before you make sure everything lines up :(
My PCB-mounted pots don't line up with the holes. The knobs are supposed to be recessed, but they won't go in because the holes are off by almost 2mm. The worst part is that it wasn't Tayda -- IT WAS MEEEEEE :cry: But I just couldn't wait 2-3 weeks for just a one-off test enclosure, so I figured what the heck? Let's get a whole batch. I'm pretty sure I got it right on first attempt! (famous last words).

Back to the drawing board 🤮

IMG_20230523_094307.jpg
 
dawson said:
@JTEX bummer x10!
*Very interesting project though- I'll be looking forward to seeing the next batch with a gut shot ☝️ 👀
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I'd appreciate some feedback on the labels I used on the switches, before I have another batch made with perhaps questionable control names (I'm not a native English speaker). The yellow toggle switches between standard Chorus and Chorus with the modulation (LFO) turned off (it then just adds a short delay between L and R). This is a feature inspired by the Rockman Soloist. I think they called it Doubler, which to me is ambiguous (is it a double chorus? What exactly does it double?). Others call this effect Double Tracker. Too long won't fit (TL; WF). Stereofy maybe? I just labelled it NO MOD, for no modulation. Does it make sense, or is it too obscure/not the best word choice? How about LFO OFF or NO LFO? Do you have any preferences here?

Same goes for the delay toggle (NORM/NO FB). NO FB is no feedback - just a single repeat. Should I have called it Single instead? Then I can imagine the confusion if I use Doubler for the chorus and Single for the 1-repeat delay... How about 1 RPT? ONCE?

Am I overthinking it? Is it maybe OK the way it is?

Damn choices!
 
JTEX said:
View attachment 49151
Here's the gut shot. Won't change with next enclosure batch.
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Holy smokes!!
I don't know what you look like and it's none of my business- but after eyeing this build I'm going to assume you've got a massive cranium to house the 20-30lbs of brains needed to design such a complex circuit, and very small feet needed to operate the 3-footswitches in the 125B..
*Possibly one normal sized foot and a pirate-style peg-leg :unsure: or similar arrangement.

3816ab994e28e1c00ee9cfeb12fd0c21.gif


I'll let you know if I have any good ideas about the switch labels!

*Edit
I dove deeper into the prosthetic limb rabbit hole and discovered the one and only Peg Leg Bates:


Did you see what he did at 1:44 ?!
 
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DGWVI said:
So, I done did the shit- color cycling LEDs in the Pendulum. I also tried the flickering flame LEDs, but they're kinda meh

Here's a couple demos before I box it up. Only mods beyond the LEDs are a 324 for the LFO, GL5528 LDRs, and a C250k speed pot

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So, decided not to box this up. The color changing LEDs are cool, but too unreliable and noisy in a way I find displeasing.

I do have another idea, though.

DGWVI said:
A Mini-mega'd Multiwave
View attachment 49137


Hoping to get this, the Corruptor above and a third circuit boxes and demoed today
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Corruptor and Multiwave boxed... Need to refamiliarize myself with them before I post build reports and demos
orca-image--561684632.jpeg
 
DGWVI said:
The color changing LEDs are cool, but too unreliable and noisy in a way I find displeasing.
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FWIW, I've been successfully using color-cycling LEDs as bypass indicators and under transparent-shafted pots with transparent knob without any noise. I just ensured the LED and its CLR are fed power directly from the DC jack with a 100nF and a 1nF cap in parallel.
 
Cybercow said:
FWIW, I've been successfully using color-cycling LEDs as bypass indicators and under transparent-shafted pots with transparent knob without any noise. I just ensured the LED and its CLR are fed power directly from the DC jack with a 100nF and a 1nF cap in parallel.
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I'll have to give that a try. I did strap a 10u across each LED, and it helped, but it messed with the cool bits a lil too much
 
JTEX said:
I'd appreciate some feedback on the labels I used on the switches, before I have another batch made with perhaps questionable control names (I'm not a native English speaker). The yellow toggle switches between standard Chorus and Chorus with the modulation (LFO) turned off (it then just adds a short delay between L and R). This is a feature inspired by the Rockman Soloist. I think they called it Doubler, which to me is ambiguous (is it a double chorus? What exactly does it double?). Others call this effect Double Tracker. Too long won't fit (TL; WF). Stereofy maybe? I just labelled it NO MOD, for no modulation. Does it make sense, or is it too obscure/not the best word choice? How about LFO OFF or NO LFO? Do you have any preferences here?

Same goes for the delay toggle (NORM/NO FB). NO FB is no feedback - just a single repeat. Should I have called it Single instead? Then I can imagine the confusion if I use Doubler for the chorus and Single for the 1-repeat delay... How about 1 RPT? ONCE?

Am I overthinking it? Is it maybe OK the way it is?

Damn choices!
Click to expand...
FWIW I would personally go with "LFO OFF" and "NO FB".

"NO FB" should be pretty simple to understand for people who have used a delay before.

As for the doubler thing, I think it's pretty common to call a double tracker effect "doubler" so it would make sense there, but I understand how it could be confusing. "NO MOD" would be accurate, but even a double tracker style effect with no LFO action would be called modulation, so it might be misleading there. So I would personally go with "LFO OFF". I'm sure you're also planning something like that, but I would for sure include some sort of a simple manual with the pedal to explain these things - even just a plain black and white A4 with short descriptions could help prevent confusion.
 
dawson said:
[...] and very small feet needed to operate the 3-footswitches in the 125B..
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Exqueeze me, that's not an enormous 125B. It's a 1590B! I liked the challenge of trying to fit all that stuff into as small a box as possible, while still having space for a battery. In hindsight, that was pretty crazy, and it's definitely not a DIY-friendly design. But we have @Robert here, who I'm hoping to charm into making a DIY-friendly motherboard for a more reasonably-sized enclosure, using standard pedal parts, such as regular stomp switches and pots, through-hole passives etc. I'd much rather not make complete pedals, and focus on just the "brain" that people could plug into whatever form factor they prefer.

I, for one, like to have it onboard. I just pick up the guitar and start playing it anywhere, like an acoustic -- but with full FX.
 
Fama said:
FWIW I would personally go with "LFO OFF" and "NO FB".

"NO FB" should be pretty simple to understand for people who have used a delay before.
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Thanks, much appreciated. I also considered LFO OFF (or NO LFO for consistency with NO FB), but felt that mentioning the LFO might be a bit too technical. Your feedback might just sway me in the LFO direction.

BTW, the chorus set to NO LFO (just a ~7ms delay) combined with delay with NO FB and shortest time (~20ms) yields a triple tracker in practice. I should demo that, sounds really thick.
 
JTEX said:
View attachment 49204

I had to devise some super low profile stomp switches to be able to do that. The battery sits right below them.

P.S. I really wish Tayda would offer mix-and-match colors. I dig the blue bottom with the white top.
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Wow, that's a snug fit!

Technically you could have two color options, blue top with white bottom or white top with blue bottom 👀 But that's probably not a good idea if you're making them for sale, better to just focus on less options to simplify things.
 
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