The work begins. Kicking myself for removing the wah pot. That’s going to be a tuning headache that could have been avoided. To be fair though, I thought I was going to order one from Smallbear, but turns out I didn’t need to. Do need some advice (@cooder, @bean, or anyone who has built this) what values did you use for C29 and C26? BOM and schem conflict. The one response I found on MBP forum say it doesn’t really matter (100 vs 220uf).
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The work begins. Kicking myself for removing the wah pot. That’s going to be a tuning headache that could have been avoided. To be fair though, I thought I was going to order one from Smallbear, but turns out I didn’t need to. Do need some advice (@cooder, @bean, or anyone who has built this) what values did you use for C29 and C26? BOM and schem conflict. The one response I found on MBP forum say it doesn’t really matter (100 vs 220uf).
Looking at the schematic, I'm going to echo the MBP forum post that says it won't matter — they're both part of power filtering and if I were building up my PCB right now I would use whatever I have on hand, be it 100µF or 220µF. If I had both, I'd probably go with the larger value — not based on anything other than bass instincts.
@Feral Feline here is the bit of schem in question
Per the BOM C29 and C30 are listed as 100uf and C26 is 220uf. I currently have a 220 in C30 (by suggestion of the MBP post), but the 220s I have on hand are physically too large to fit in that space. Am I mistaken in thinking that these are simply filtering power supply noise? Edit: you already answered that. So unless someone rings the warning bells, going to go with 100uf in 26 & 29 @Harry Klippton god I hope so. I have high hopes for this build
What if you put C29 as per the silkscreen and mount C26 from the backside?
Alas, I haven't even begun to think about building mine, so I've not mocked up anything and have no idea if the C26 would fit between the PCB and Wah-shell.
'Nother idearooniki: the SMD caps that Cybercow noted are compact but still have stubby little legs that can be used in through-hole builds — do they even come in 100µF and 220µF?
Working on a repair for a friend. The regulator in this pedal was putting out 0vDC. Check out the capacitor next door, and the pads for the regulator. Think it got too hot?
@Diynot 100uF should be fine in those positions. As said above it's power filtering nad there's a lot of that going on already even with three 100uF caps.
Also if you have a reasonably good powersupply it again would point to being fully ok to use 100uF in those positions, rated for at least 25V, better 35V. My two cents.
@Diynot 100uF should be fine in those positions. As said above it's power filtering nad there's a lot of that going on already even with three 100uF caps.
Also if you have a reasonably good powersupply it again would point to being fully ok to use 100uF in those positions, rated for at least 25V, better 35V. My two cents.
Thanks cooder! The more I thought ab it, the more comfortable I was with using the 100uf esp since I have a 220uf as the last in the power supply line, that should filter anything the others MIGHT miss.
Thanks @Feral Feline for the input. Deciding to go with the 100uf will allow both to fit where they should. The one place you might want to be more strategic than I is the 47uf next to C26&29. Probably should have used a low pro here since the wah shell gets shallow enough that having a full sized through hole is going to barely clear the back.
Replaced the first Muroidea in my lamestain forever dirt box with an Irrlicht, and made a couple small tweaks/ updates to the already tweaked Muroidea and Dream Fuzz. Figured now was a good a time as any to also redo the labels View attachment 51061 View attachment 51062
I've always used 5mm up to now, but I did just order some pink 3mm LEDs from StompboxParts. With 5mm waterclears I sometimes like to rough up the whole surface with 320 grit, it gives a nice diffuse effect with the very high value CLRs I prefer.
I had some 320 grit paper handy, so I used it to turn my last UV LED to a diffused variety, and it came out great!
I'm still waiting on a 2N5457 to see if it would decrease the noise (it has a J112 right now, also tried a BF245C before), since it has a little bit too much noise to be an always-on pedal for me. If you play long notes and let them decay it's pretty apparent - otherwise it's fine, but I don't feel like I would keep using a pedal with that issue all the time.
The gloss part was supposed to be Cthulhu inspired tentacles or whatever tendrils reaching out from the dark, but they didn't quite capture that. They look decent otherwise though.
While I was at it, I also switched the correct knobs instead of the ugly yellow placeholders (finally) to my Color Out of 1981 pedal, plus I sanded the UV LED here too so it's smoother.
It's pretty dim though (it was maybe earlier too, but even more so with the "diffusion", which is not a huge issue since I only use them at home, but it would be nice to fix that. I think the LED CLR's are the 4.7k ones in both, so R100 in the Clandestine Preamp and R102 on the Informant, but how do I know how much the UV LED's can take so I don't push them too hard?
I assume I would need to calculate the current here, is it just the basic Ohm's law, 9V divided by 4700R so the current comes out to a bit under 2 milliamps? So to avoid going over 20mA I'd like to stick above say 500 ohms, because with that it would hit 18mA? In practice I know the polarity protection diode at least eats a bit of voltage, and I found one formula which makes it seem like I would remove the forward voltage from the voltage too when calculating forward current, so at that point (5.5V and 20mA) I would want more than 275 ohms... but it seems that using the first formula is at least safer in this case?
Maybe I'll try testing with a parallel CLR to drop the resistance to something like 1k ohms first, and see how that works. I've come to realize I just hate desoldering components, I'm not sure if it's the soldering iron or the solder I use (non-leaded, of course) or if the sucker I use just sucks (or could of course be my technique too), but I'd like to avoid that if at all possible.
Working on a repair for a friend. The regulator in this pedal was putting out 0vDC. Check out the capacitor next door, and the pads for the regulator. Think it got too hot?
I personally always pop it on the breadboard to test. Start with 4.7k and adjust the CLR to taste. Then I write my final choice on the bag of resistors.
I personally always pop it on the breadboard to test. Start with 4.7k and adjust the CLR to taste. Then I write my final choice on the bag of resistors.
I was mostly curious about the lower limit so it doesn't burn out prematurely? Normally I wouldn't care too much, but like I said, they're dimmer than most LED's to begin with. Or am I worrying too much?
Working on a repair for a friend. The regulator in this pedal was putting out 0vDC. Check out the capacitor next door, and the pads for the regulator. Think it got too hot?
This keeps getting worse. I reversed the regulator and it's properly sending +5vDC to the Belton, but the Belton just motorboats on its outputs now. My guy says to go ahead and replace the Belton. This board is really crappy quality and I lifted a trace on the regulator last night
This keeps getting worse. I reversed the regulator and it's properly sending +5vDC to the Belton, but the Belton just motorboats on its outputs now. My guy says to go ahead and replace the Belton. This board is really crappy quality and I lifted a trace on the regulator last night
Have you messed with a hot air station?
I made a $40 gamble with the cheapest one I could find on Amazon and it's made a huge difference with multi-lead-ridden component removal.
*It's also helped touch up some jank-ass SMD stuff I've botched in the past so my Hydra finally works for more than two days in a row.
Have you messed with a hot air station?
I made a $40 gamble with the cheapest one I could find on Amazon and it's made a huge difference with multi-lead-ridden component removal.
*It's also helped touch up some jank-ass SMD stuff I've botched in the past so my Hydra finally works for more than two days in a row.
