Feral Feline
Well-known member
That's close. Kill the sweep entirely and you've got it.
What’s on *YOUR* workbench?
- Thread starter Bricksnbeatles
- Start date
Passinwind
Well-known member
Sometimes it’s the simple things.
On-on-on toggle switch breakout:
On-on-on toggle switch breakout:
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Harry Klippton
Not Interested
Checking voltages when putting my new rectifier tube in
andare
Well-known member
What does the breakout board do?
Erik S
Well-known member
In the mailbox/ on the workbench - finally broke down and ordered a TC1. Motivation was a Bellum fuzz MK1 build in progress.
Pulled out the closest 7 2n5088 I had to try and get it to behave a little better. The random pull for my first assembly ranged from 456-572 hfe per the TC1. My selected set is between 470-482. It still gates and sags and cuts out when I adjust the fuzz knob, but less of all those things now.
Pulled out the closest 7 2n5088 I had to try and get it to behave a little better. The random pull for my first assembly ranged from 456-572 hfe per the TC1. My selected set is between 470-482. It still gates and sags and cuts out when I adjust the fuzz knob, but less of all those things now.
Fama
Well-known member
I have now entered my purple phase. This will last up until I get the Truth Bender done, for now. That will also be purple. Maybe not the footswitch nut though, I only had two.
Finally got this bastard working correctly, it's a bit annoying how the flickering LED is dimmer and sort of ruins the "fires burning at the entrance" thing, plus I should have had orange or purple LED's. Wait, are there even orange or purple LED's? Took a quick search at Aliexpress and it's always red/blue/yellow/green/white? Nevermind, found some on Ebay.
Finally got this bastard working correctly, it's a bit annoying how the flickering LED is dimmer and sort of ruins the "fires burning at the entrance" thing, plus I should have had orange or purple LED's. Wait, are there even orange or purple LED's? Took a quick search at Aliexpress and it's always red/blue/yellow/green/white? Nevermind, found some on Ebay.
Phil hodson
Well-known member
What did you go for?
I have been thinking of changing out my JJ’s for some Sovtek ones. For a bit more gain.
Harry Klippton
Not Interested
I only changed the rectifier because the previous one failed. I put in a JJ, previously had a TAD. The TAD was arcing internally due to having a bunch of debris inside
Passinwind
Well-known member
The switch function is a three way midrange frequency selector, the breakout board has both holes and pads for the wires, making assembly and/or mods a lot less likely to destroy the switch. But most importantly, all the offboard wiring connections are labeled and all the interswitch connections are already on the board, so less chance of miswiring something, or inadvertent shorts. As this is for a DIY oriented pedal, I see it as one less potential callback point, kind of like Robert putting component values on his boards rather than schematic references.
Why not just put the switch on the main board? Because not all on-on-on toggles use the same bushing dimensions, and aligning four pots for uniform height before soldering is easier without having to factor in that switch too. And finally, if and when the switch fails replacing it is trivially easy, no need to even pull the main board. So, trying to work a little smarter in my old age.
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Passinwind
Well-known member
So called pink LEDs are kind of purple in my book, FWIW. 3 cents at Tayda. Lots of people sell UV ones that show as visible purple too.
Fama
Well-known member
Tayda doesn't have 3mm pink (or purple) LED's, I was thinking of just moving to 3mm instead of mixing 3mm and 5mm like I have been. I noticed they do have 3mm orange ones though, I must have just missed those before.
Edit: Oh, and I did use the UV one in a build, but tbh that one should have had a lampshade which I did not use, or a diffuser of some sort anyway. The, uh, viewing angle has a big effect on it? Not sure how else to describe it. But it is pretty purple.
Bricksnbeatles
Member known well
You can create a purple LED that is *not* UV by mixing colors in an RGB led. Breadboard the led, and use trimmers to set the separate CLR values for each color until you find the hue you want, then measure the resistances and use fixed resistors in place for your build.
Passinwind
Well-known member
I've always used 5mm up to now, but I did just order some pink 3mm LEDs from StompboxParts. With 5mm waterclears I sometimes like to rough up the whole surface with 320 grit, it gives a nice diffuse effect with the very high value CLRs I prefer.
Paradox916
Well-known member
Back on deck, I have a VIIB, Binaura, HAARP, arachnid, and procrastinator, some will be straight forward builds a couple I have some mod ideas for, including an attempt at custom EEPROMs, in usual fashion I’m probably going to have to venture out into the weeds on this ambient adventure… might be a while before you seen some build reports.
