What’s on *YOUR* workbench?

 
Erik S said:
Something wrapped around a drive roller grooving your pages? What was it? Did you get it off? Did you get the printer back together? Does it still work?

If it ends badly, I can recommend this one:

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Thank you.
It happened while I was printing some decal transfers. I don’t know what part made it become like that.
The printer is 7 years old though.
 
Finished up a War Sythe with the clefted mods, only I left C16 in, an oversight though I really like the way it sounds! Labels came out a little sloppier than I wanted and I should have done a white layer behind the lettering over the dark background, but,”Don’t let the perfect be the enemy of the good!” That is one of the Neutron Star enclosures from SBP. I still may make some knobs for it, when I get around to it. C51BFDA2-372C-48E2-B63B-3803DBC0762A.jpeg
 
cliffs_trip said:
Finished up a War Sythe with the clefted mods, only I left C16 in, an oversight though I really like the way it sounds! Labels came out a little sloppier than I wanted and I should have done a white layer behind the lettering over the dark background, but,”Don’t let the perfect be the enemy of the good!” That is one of the Neutron Star enclosures from SBP. I still may make some knobs for it, when I get around to it.View attachment 54033
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That looks amazing! I like the way you lined it up i think the even amount of spacing looks great!
 
Bricksnbeatles said:
View attachment 53871
Second batch— this time with ivory black and burnt umber pigments fit a speckled mocha look. Much less successful than the first time, as this is chock full of bubbles. Gonna see what people say about the $99 harbor freight pressure pot.
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Before you buy your own pressure pot, it’s worth checking around at your school to see if one of the sculpting shops (or possibly if your school has a product or industrial design department, their shop should have a pressure pot). After you’ve had a chance to use one, you’ll be a much better educated shopper.

The other nice thing to have is a vacuum pot, to de-gas before you cast. (This is also very effective with silicone before you pour the mold.) You’d need to be working with a slower resin (but for that matter, with a pressure pot you’d want something a bit slower too). With open face molds, a vibration table is also quite effective, and can be built inexpensively.
 
Alan W said:
Before you buy your own pressure pot, it’s worth checking around at your school to see if one of the sculpting shops (or possibly if your school has a product or industrial design department, their shop should have a pressure pot). After you’ve had a chance to use one, you’ll be a much better educated shopper.

The other nice thing to have is a vacuum pot, to de-gas before you cast. (This is also very effective with silicone before you pour the mold.) You’d need to be working with a slower resin (but for that matter, with a pressure pot you’d want something a bit slower too). With open face molds, a vibration table is also quite effective, and can be built inexpensively.
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Thanks for the info! My school unfortunately doesn’t have an industrial/product design department, and I don’t think the sculpture department has a pressure pot since there are only two sculpture rooms and a supply closet, and I’ve never seen a pressure pot in any of them, but I’ll ask just in case!
I’ll definitely have to build a vibration table. I sorta simulated one when I was casting by keeping the mold on a plywood board and moving it around such to agitate it similar to how I get bubbles out of plaster castings, but a mechanical device would be more effective for sure, and easy to build with just a small motor
 
Bricksnbeatles said:
Thanks for the info! My school unfortunately doesn’t have an industrial/product design department, and I don’t think the sculpture department has a pressure pot since there are only two sculpture rooms and a supply closet, and I’ve never seen a pressure pot in any of them, but I’ll ask just in case!
I’ll definitely have to build a vibration table. I sorta simulated one when I was casting by keeping the mold on a plywood board and moving it around such to agitate it similar to how I get bubbles out of plaster castings, but a mechanical device would be more effective for sure, and easy to build with just a small motor
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With small, open face molds, the other thing you can try is to brush in a small amount of resin, to wet the mold surfaces; as a thin layer, you can get it bubble free pretty easily, then pour in the fill. Obviously one time use brushes…

For untinted resin, (at least what I’m used to, which starts out as transparent, but opaques as it cures), I can also remember chasing bubbles with a fine wire.
 
Friend brought this to me yesterday, worked with battery power not with the dc jack. Ground pad appeared lifted off the board. With a little help
From a user at diystompboxes managed to figure out where to jumper. Serial number is from 87. EA73E293-C76F-4A44-AB1D-E5E29C172BCB.jpeg
Arrow to lifted pad at dc jack
CB1B7AFE-33CC-4CBF-AC84-0E9A94BF67B2.jpeg
First attempt to fix. This did not fix it.
15C796A4-9715-4B59-B973-B994B26F128D.jpeg
After some advice over at diystompboxes this got it working again.
14F28E06-31F7-40C9-A71A-8D15380E4D11.jpeg


Interesting little box.
 
Locrian99 said:
Friend brought this to me yesterday, worked with battery power not with the dc jack. Ground pad appeared lifted off the board. With a little help
From a user at diystompboxes managed to figure out where to jumper. Serial number is from 87. View attachment 54082
Arrow to lifted pad at dc jack
View attachment 54083
First attempt to fix. This did not fix it.
View attachment 54084
After some advice over at diystompboxes this got it working again.
View attachment 54085


Interesting little box.
Click to expand...
I think some of the old boss pedals ran on 12v wall worts or 9v battery. thats why it works with the battery and not standard 9v wall wort....
 
drgonzo1969 said:
I think some of the old boss pedals ran on 12v wall worts or 9v battery. thats why it works with the battery and not standard 9v wall wort....
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What your referring to is older Boss pedals ran on the ACA power supply that was an unregulated 12V and later units on the regulated 9V PSA power supply.
You can run the ACA pedals if you daisy chain the power with a regulated 9V PSA power supply with another pedal.

The Digital Pitch Shifter PS-2 above is powered by a regulated 9V PSA power supply just like we would use with PedalPCB builds.
 
My bench isn't used to such size projects but I'm finally getting around to building the patchbay for my x32 rack. Once into it I can see why I kept putting it off. Eye gougingly boring. After fifteen minutes I was thinking to myself "doesn't the lawn need mowed?":ROFLMAO:
I was ready to use my wifes paper hole punch to make the cable holes in the rubber boot covers, she suggested I use her leather punch instead. Worked sooooo gud! I do love having the right tool for the job.:love::love: And an amazing wife!
IMG_1126.jpg IMG_1129.jpg IMG_1130.jpg
 
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