JTEX
Well-known member
But I love my mouse! In particular the inertial scroll wheel, which I TOTALLY despised at first, until I got used to it and now every other mouse wheel sucks!
What’s on *YOUR* workbench?
- Thread starter Bricksnbeatles
- Start date
CheapSuitG
The TubeSchemer
You could get close to that look with a bedazzler.....
benny_profane
Well-known member
The one I recommended has that too! You can turn it off though. The MX Master 3 adds a thumb scroll that’s great for zooming. What model do you have?
benny_profane
Well-known member
Oh that’s really cool—that looks solid. I had thought it was a M510 at first. Disregard!
Guilherme Collateral
Well-known member
Just finished this chorus for a customer
Erik S
Well-known member
I have one. It’s great, although it recently experienced a brutal act of homonymous canibalism.
Vicious C
Well-known member
Even the teaser photos of your builds are dope. As usual, great job!
Guilherme Collateral
Well-known member
Thank you! I made a little photography set up on my living room with a Godox SL60W in a soft box, a tripod and some different colour backgrounds, so it's really simple to take pictures there. You just need to understand the lighting, after that it's a really quick process. I just need to clean cat fur before taking any pictures
Locrian99
Well-known member
Finally got to actually turn it on and play through it! Vibrato channel sounds pretty good. Think there is a preamp tube on its way out, and there seems to be a slight bit of distortion, actually added some nice harmonics might be a power tube, volume is def where it should be. Reverb is perfect, no footswitch for vib might have to make one. Was basically just to see where its at after the necessary filter cap replacement and 3 prong. Next up is replacing all the electro coupling caps, well basically any electro. And any ceramic. Normal channel has some god awful hum, hoping its just one of these 56 year old pre amp tubes.
Passinwind
Well-known member
Thanks to a few hours of sunshine over the last few weeks, my new fire recovery bass body is finally almost fully contoured and stripped:
I'm thinking orange grain fill for the wings and a purple tint for the center block, something along these lines:
I'm thinking orange grain fill for the wings and a purple tint for the center block, something along these lines:
steviejr92
Authorized Vendor
I would suggest using a steel back plate or something similar hardness when punching stamping to avoid warping it!
temol
Well-known member
I would suggest using arbor press instead of a hammer to punch out the letters. And massive steel back plate.
Bricksnbeatles
Member known well
Whenever I’m punch stamping enclosures I use a solid steel 1-2-3 block as an anvil to back the blows
steviejr92
Authorized Vendor
Yes this would be way more efficient and effective but I’m not sure if he has one of those!
DGWVI
Well-known member
I used a piece of maple as a backer when I center punched for the LED. The auto punch went right through the aluminum. I do have an arbor press handy, but no suitable blocks of steel
I'm thinking I'll just bust out my rotary tool and do a simple engraving.
drgonzo1969
Well-known member
Erik S
Well-known member
Nope! Haha.
Pretty amazing they can get a chunk of cast iron to your house for under 70 bucks though.
I love me some arbor presses, but I’m not sold on the idea of using one for stamping. Seems like slow application of 1 ton is more likely to get you in trouble than quick application of a light hammer.
If you were going to use one for stamping, I think you’d run out of height on that one once you stacked up an enclosure, a backer block, and a stamp.
Here’s my greenerd #3. Can for scale and also because I use it for squishing cans more than anything else.
