dot matrix madness
Active member
Never to be removed again.
What’s on *YOUR* workbench?
- Thread starter Bricksnbeatles
- Start date
tegendemuur
Well-known member
Nothing a good smack from the hammer from the opposite direction couldn't solve! But yeah, this one hole is now ruined, yes. Then again, how else was I going to figure out what was going on with this weird thing ... ?Never to be removed again.
Ring shank spiral shank hybrid.
Pretty unique
Erik S
Well-known member
I don't think so... I think that's like a hammer in 10-32. Pretty cool.
analogdevice
Member
A little different but works the same: https://www.amplifiedparts.com/products/screw-8-32-12-reverse-thread-speaker-baffle-mount
KR Sound
Well-known member
Ring shank- good for fences.
It's a ring shank on the bottom and spiral/screw shank on top..?
ragamuffin
Well-known member
Measuring some new transistors from my Tayda haul. Pretty tight numbers, not a big spread
Erik S
Well-known member
Ring shanks have rings to catch on wood and make them harder to pull out, I think the part that looks like ring shank is actually just a bolt with a normal thread to accept a nut.
Why have a bolt that you can't wrench?
Erik S
Well-known member
Making some progress with my etching experiments. Pretty sure the last set of failures was due to poor prep.
I managed to get a good set after stripping the original toner with naphtha and a scotchbrite disc and re-transferring. Nice deep etch on most of them and didn’t lose any toner.
I set up a little jig to make the stripping easier since I have a bunch to do.
I managed to get a good set after stripping the original toner with naphtha and a scotchbrite disc and re-transferring. Nice deep etch on most of them and didn’t lose any toner.
I set up a little jig to make the stripping easier since I have a bunch to do.
Erik S
Well-known member
I think they’re for popping through plywood on a speaker cab to give you a bolt for mounting the speaker.
falco_femoralis
Well-known member
It makes essentially a captive stud that doesn't require two hands to fasten and is easier to work with esp when it's difficult to reach the other side. When bolting to wood you don't need a high torque value as it will deform the wood, so the splines at the head of the shaft are good enough to withstand any real life rotational force.
The opposite of this is a T nut, which again eliminates the need for a retaining nut, which is useful in situations where you either can't reach it or need the surface flush
tegendemuur
Well-known member
Bafflin'.
This is going to become some sort of two channel (1x12" (50W) + 2x10" (2x25W) ) powered cabinet via two (a mono and a stereo) class D amp modules. Going to start out with an open baffle design, then boxing it in by using my ears / no maths, until I hear what I like.
Pedal platform at its purest.
This is going to become some sort of two channel (1x12" (50W) + 2x10" (2x25W) ) powered cabinet via two (a mono and a stereo) class D amp modules. Going to start out with an open baffle design, then boxing it in by using my ears / no maths, until I hear what I like.
Pedal platform at its purest.
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jimilee
Well-known member
Daaaaammmnnnn
vigilante398
Authorized Vendor
I recognize a couple of those
Erik S
Well-known member
Big thanks to @drew.spriggs who came through for me with his Nobelium template, but I still wouldn't be sad to have an official one with the all the side holes if you end up working one up at some point. The C2CE stuff will probably be the last ones I do.I recognize a couple of those
vigilante398
Authorized Vendor
Yeah I need to do that. The side holes are tricky just because of the slot for the ground lift switch, but I've seen some people just do an oversized circle hole with enough vertical room for the switch travel.