What’s on *YOUR* workbench?

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Dual-EEPROM (toggle switch) plus dry/wet stereo modded Arachnid, finally complete. Surprisingly painless, I had some issues after boxing because the stereo ring wire had a cold solder joint (well, more like just a shit solder joint) and I didn't understand how the EEPROM switching works (you need to move the rotary switch too so it loads the new program), but once I figured those out it worked just fine.

Obviously it's more of a studio toy than anything for live use just from the form factor, but the EEPROM daughterboard is also just going into the socket for the original EEPROM (I would have soldered the wires in but it already had a socket from earlier, my mistake) which is kind of scuffed. I think they will hold fine, but maybe I could try soldering the wires into the socket itself - desoldering the socket feels annoying.

I was kinda dreading this for a while because of the extra added complexity, but going carefully step by step and double checking everything helps avoid mistakes.

I was thinking I would put together a "manual" I can view on my phone, putting it in Drive or something and printing a small QR code that leads to it, which I can tape to the side or something. Lots of different programs that do different things.
 
Fama said:
Dual-EEPROM (toggle switch) plus dry/wet stereo modded Arachnid, finally complete. Surprisingly painless, I had some issues after boxing because the stereo ring wire had a cold solder joint (well, more like just a shit solder joint) and I didn't understand how the EEPROM switching works (you need to move the rotary switch too so it loads the new program), but once I figured those out it worked just fine.
Click to expand...

If wired in a specific manner, the toggle switch is capable of re-triggering the freshly selected EEPROM to to reload the patch that the patch selector switch is currently set to.

Is your toggle switch wired like this . . . . . . . (???)
FV-1_Hot_Swap_EEPROMs.jpg
Actuating the toggle in this configuration re-triggers an EEPROM patch reload without the need to touch the patch selector - unless you want a different patch on the new bank.
 
Cybercow said:
If wired in a specific manner, the toggle switch is capable of re-triggering the freshly selected EEPROM to to reload the patch that the patch selector switch is currently set to.

Is your toggle switch wired like this . . . . . . . (???)
View attachment 114740
Actuating the toggle in this configuration re-triggers an EEPROM patch reload without the need to touch the patch selector - unless you want a different patch on the new bank.
Click to expand...
I don't think so no, I used this layout I think I found somewhere on this forum, but I'm not sure:

EEPROM switcher vero - Copy.jpg
I used a SPST On/On so I don't think it's possible to do that with mine. But I don't think it's a huge issue tbh.
 
Cannondale Caad5! The downtube has a big shallow dent. Otherwise the frame is clean!

I drilled a small hole opposite of the dent and used a ball end wrench and a mallet to lightly tape the dent out. Unfortunately doesn't quite spring back like steel does but I got the shape mostly restored. I used bondo to level everything out and plug the hole.

Now on to touching it up.
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Getting back to rummaging through these raytheons.
Can anyone fill me in on these hFE/Vce curves? The early breakdown is occurring on at least some of the high beta(1k+) units. They don't have particularly high leakage. Higher than the others, often, but most sub 1mA.
They're house numbered JAN units, so no datasheet to be had.
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The bike stuff looks like next level shit. Is this a thing, like are a bunch of other peeps doing this stuff? I had only a short bike involvement with a mediocre Trek I inherited from my wife. I was always a fan of the Felt stuff but know next to nothing about this. Even though I don't ride anymore I'm fascinated by your work and appreciate you documenting it for us lazy bastards.
 
Gordo said:
The bike stuff looks like next level shit. Is this a thing, like are a bunch of other peeps doing this stuff? I had only a short bike involvement with a mediocre Trek I inherited from my wife. I was always a fan of the Felt stuff but know next to nothing about this. Even though I don't ride anymore I'm fascinated by your work and appreciate you documenting it for us lazy bastards.
Click to expand...
Not to my knowledge. If you read any forums, a lot of people are hesitant to ride anything with the slightest bit of damage for fear of catastrophic failure.

Carbon is extremely repairable. Aluminum less so if it cracks.
 
Debunking my build of Sheepys Quick Lime Girl. Getting very little output. Bypass and led both work. No noise issues just very low output. Hopefully it’s the .1uf I put in C5 instead of 1uf which @MichaelW kindly pointed out to me. If that doesn’t work it’s going in the troubleshooting section.

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