Why doesn’t everyone use 9mm pots?!?

Reasons I like 16mm pots:

1. they're easier to work with
2. they feel sturdier when mounting to an enclosure
3. It's a lot easier to read the values on them (I've had a couple of 9mm pots that I couldn't find any marking on them and had to rely on a DMM to know what I had in my hand)
4. they're cheaper

Reasons I like 9mm pots:
1. they're sealed (which means they're generally less noisy and more reliable)
2. you can more easily fit them into 1590A enclosures
3. I can store a lot more of them in the limited amount of space that I have
4. I've never broken the legs off of a 9mm pot

But probably the biggest reason I prefer 9mm pots to 16mm pots -- I'v never empaled myself with a 9mm pot
 
Yeah ok. I used 9mm pots in my 1590A and 1590LB designs, seems almost required. But anything bigger than that I can see 16mm being better. About ready to build some Conspiracy to Commit Electronics tube pedals... he uses 9mm exclusively.
 
Some of us prefer 24mm pots.. or even better, sealed 28mm pots. But really who wants to pay $15-25/pot that has limited values available, would eat up a lot of valuable real estate, and isn’t PC board mountable?

Now when I finally get around to building a replacement for my “perfect” Plexi that I like an idiot sold, I’ll likely get them.. but for pedals, I’ll stick with 16mm PCB mount
 
I saw some 12mm pots in person for the first time on a cctv monitor my brother is refurbishing and I’ll be danged if they didn’t look like an ideal middle ground on a lot of these fronts
 
Ok so would they actually save space compared to 16mm pots? They should, but how much?

@Robert seems like a methodical, scientific guy. If there is an advantage, he’d use them.
 
I was always under the impression that with a smaller pot the rate of change is more with every degree of turn so they can be harder to dial in a finer setting
 
I generally prefer the right angle 9mm pots because they are a very secure mount, but they make 1590B layouts more challenging than 16mm. There is less useable real estate with 9mm.

With 16mm there are only 3 contact points. With 9mm there are 5 plus the 2 external standoff tabs to work around.
 
I was always under the impression that with a smaller pot the rate of change is more with every degree of turn so they can be harder to dial in a finer settingthe knob

I was always under the impression that with a smaller pot the rate of change is more with every degree of turn so they can be harder to dial in a finer setting
The rate of change is dependent on the ole fulcrum and lever.
How big is the knob?
Though, 16mm have a few more degrees of turn iirc.
 
I've only made one (very ugly mag echo in 1590BB(WHY?)) board with both 16 and 9. Ran into issues, and even had similar issues with other not-my builds: mostly the drill points not lining up after population. I stopped using them in my own boards, but it's not just 16+9 pot alignment, it's other things like board mounted LEDs.

And I'm not blaming board makers on the slightest here.

@jwin615 and I were talking about this, because even lining stuff up in CAD, a 3d printing a test enclosure would fail to line up. Enough to require bending the 16mm legs more than one would think reasonable.

He's mentioned this elsewhere, but it comes down to variants (not talking margin of error here) of pots' physical dimensions in the legs before they bend 90° by not simply the manufacturer, but where they're sourced and sold from.

In our personal inventory sample sizes, Alpha brand 16mm pots from Tayda measure differently from US-vendor-sourced specimens. This is from pot stem center to leg pin center, the differential if which is 65 mils. It's very consistent. Variance/tolerance of one group (from one vendor) pots is only 5–10 mils at most. Even comparing against Tayda's house brand, they measure the same with the same tolerance. I.e. Tayda's house brand is identically spaced with the Alpha stock they sell.

I took my measurements off an Alpha and compared it to a board/drill footprint: center point of pot stem drill maker and center of pin pad/hole, and that's where I got the 65 mils differential.

To test, I offset the pot holes for a printed box by 65mils and lo and behold the holes for all pots and the on board LED aligned nigh perfectly; no bending required.

65mils isn't much, (1.65mm) but at that scale it's enough to cause alignment issues.

And yeah, you can bend pins—not hard to do—but I'd rather it just work and be neater. I made a custom footprint for myself, since 90% of my pots are alpha brand and 90% of those were gotten from Tayda.

I bet if I assembled another one of those boards I made with both 16 and 9 there would be 0 fitment issues.


again, I know this is really in the weeds, but it's something that kept me from using 9mm since.
 
What's the benefit when they're twice as expensive?
One benefit would be size constraints. For 1590A builds with more than 1 or 2 pots, they’re a must! Another is sturdiness on the PCB. If you have the space for the stabilizer tabs, there’s less of a chance the legs will flex and break than on a 16mm with flying leads.

And let’s not forget that non-Alpha pots used to be garbage not too long ago. The Mammoth stuff was junk; nearly 1 out of 4 would have stripped threads! Now we have SBP’s house branded pots, which seem to be a high quality alternative to Alpha at half the price. The 9mm, however.. Not a lot of competition it seems.
 
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