Your best method for removing thorugh-hole components from a PCB

andare

andare

Well-known member
Hi,

I'm trying to remove a 47uF electrolytic capacitor from a Minnow PCB that is 99% populated. Silly me soldered it where the 4.7uF cap goes...
I'd like to salvage this build because it is expensive and complicated for me but solder sucker and my puny 0.5mm solder wick aren't working.

What is your go-to method from removing through-hole components from a PCB?
Should I just use wider solder wick? 2mm?

Thanks in advance!
 
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fig said:
08UDZ8f.jpg

Not very helpful, but it is my best method. ;)
Hope you get it fixed.
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I invested in one of these when I was doing a lot of pedal mods, it's great
 
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Congrats on freeing your board.

I can relate. My friend has both a small solder-sucker and a large solder-sucker. The small one is the same size as mine, and works for most jobs, but I had a few times where I was working in his shop and that big'n came in super-duper handy.

Big-Volume Solder-Pump is on my shopping list!
 
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SillyOctpuss said:
What kind of solder sucker do you have? I used to have a cheap one which came with a kit I bought when I started and it was useless. I bought one of these and removing components is much easier now


It still takes some patience but it's no longer an impossible task to remove a misplaced component.
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I bought one of these since it looks quality, arrived yesterday and today I’ve been pulling electrolytic caps out of a pedal from the mid-80’s since it stopped working last week.

that pump is unreasonably good. Pretty much clears the entire pad on the first shot, so I can just lift the component right off.

highly recommended.

i am using it on a single-sided board though, maybe a through plated board would be tougher.

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1. Add a bit of solder to both pads with soldering Iron.
2. Alternate between the 2 pads quickly with Iron while pulling gently & it (Component) should fall out.
3. I use a standard dress makers Pin & heat the Pad & QUICKLY poke the pin through the hole while the solder is still molten & jiggle it so it forms a hole until solder sets.
4. Repeat Number 3 on the 2nd Pad.
Sometimes the excess solder sticks to the Pin but slides off easily.
Sometimes the Solder hangs from the Pad, just nip the excess with wire cutters.

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mnemonic said:
I bought one of these since it looks quality, arrived yesterday and today I’ve been pulling electrolytic caps out of a pedal from the mid-80’s since it stopped working last week.

that pump is unreasonably good. Pretty much clears the entire pad on the first shot, so I can just lift the component right off.

highly recommended.

i am using it on a single-sided board though, maybe a through plated board would be tougher.

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A double sided board definitely isn't as easy as vero or single sided but it's definitely doable. I'll usually take a few goes but it's much easier with that solder sucker than the old el cheapo one I used to use.
 
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spilla said:
This has been a great upgrade to the standard solder suckers. It has sacrificial/replacable silicon tips. You can suck up the solder while the iron is still touching the part. The silicone tips are very hardy. I'm still on my original tips a yr after buying it.

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Looks great. I actually managed to get it done with my cheap sucker and I bought 1.5mm solder wick which works beautifully without adding flux.
Still working on this Minnow build but I should be done this weekend and I'll post an update.
 
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I’ve always used a heated desoldering pump.

got one like this many years ago, and it works great
www.radioshack.com

RadioShack 45W Desoldering Iron with Vacuum Bulb

With a vacuum bulb and a 45W heating element, this desoldering iron makes it easy to remove molten solder from boards and wires safely while still keeping one hand free. Includes a stand for safe placement. Part Number 6402052 Tip Hole Diameter 0.055in (1.4mm) Power Rating 45W Tip Material...
www.radioshack.com www.radioshack.com
 
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