Lumberg VS SBP house brand power jacks

pcb rookie

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Anyone experience a difference or have concern on StompBoxPart house brand "Lumberg style" power jacks vs the original Lumberg jacks? I have always used the original Lumberg and was told that this was a critical component ... but I've been pleased with all other SBP products so it's temping price wise (0.60$ vs 1.80$) ...

 
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If they're the same ones Tayda carries, I'd steer clear
What problems do you (or others) have with these?

I just searched "lumberg jacks" in the forum because I am running into issues with the Tayda version. Usually I use the big 1/2" plastic jacks, but I put these into my last three builds and on all three I can't get the LEDs to work, and on one of them the effect won't power up even though it worked fine before boxing.

As an aside, I bought the SBP version in the past and it worked fine, but the threads were crappy and the nut didn't tighten all the way so I had to use a makeshift washer.
 
What problems do you (or others) have with these?

I just searched "lumberg jacks" in the forum because I am running into issues with the Tayda version. Usually I use the big 1/2" plastic jacks, but I put these into my last three builds and on all three I can't get the LEDs to work, and on one of them the effect won't power up even though it worked fine before boxing.
they're crazy fragile in my experience, and prone to failure. The lumbergs are awesome. the knock-offs, not so much
 
Does it make sense that my LED problems come from a bad DC jack? The effect works, but not the LED. I tried flipping the orientation of the LED because I often screw that up, but it didn't help. These all worked before boxing, but they were tested with a different DC jack than the Tayda.
 
I used the knockoffs exclusively for a while, and for occasional builds they weren't a big deal, but when I started building for customers I started having more issues with them.
  • threading is different and seems a lot easier to strip
  • center pin is fatter than the Lumbergs and some customers said their power supplies didn't fit or fit very snugly
  • metal used is cheaper and I've had customers (and myself) accidentally pull the center pin out
  • quality control is worse, I've seen corroded contacts and bent/missing center pins
Just my experience, but I've used a lot of both and I only buy the real Lumbergs now. Worth the extra money.
 
Does it make sense that my LED problems come from a bad DC jack? The effect works, but not the LED. I tried flipping the orientation of the LED because I often screw that up, but it didn't help. These all worked before boxing, but they were tested with a different DC jack than the Tayda.
Not likely, if your effect is getting power, then so would the LED.
 
What problems do you (or others) have with these?

I just searched "lumberg jacks" in the forum because I am running into issues with the Tayda version. Usually I use the big 1/2" plastic jacks, but I put these into my last three builds and on all three I can't get the LEDs to work, and on one of them the effect won't power up even though it worked fine before boxing.

As an aside, I bought the SBP version in the past and it worked fine, but the threads were crappy and the nut didn't tighten all the way so I had to use a makeshift washer.
Maybe this is obvious but did you by any chance buy DC jacks with metal sleeves? Those will short out against the enclosure.
 
The Tayda cheap versions fall apart pretty easily. I've had all sorts of interesting problems with them. Weird noises from short circuits, parts of the socket coming out with the plug, solder lugs disappearing... The noises have been remarkable.
 
Everyone of mine from tayda strip out before they’re close to tight…

I ended up trying to glue them in place…
They’re horrible…
 
Maybe this is obvious but did you by any chance buy DC jacks with metal sleeves? Those will short out against the enclosure.
No, they are just the regular plastic ones.

Maybe this is a separate issue for a different thread, but I'm having a hell of a time with these LEDs now for some reason, even after testing again with my usual DC jacks. I'm getting 9V on one leg of LED and nothing on the other, but no light even when flipping the orientation and the LED itself. Never had problems with LEDs before, and now it's taking place with three of my most recent builds.

The only variable I changed on these was using the Tayda Lumbergs, but you're right it wouldn't make sense for that to affect just the LED.
 
I'm working through a batch of these.......that I got on Amazon.

First time plugging them it's a little snug but then loosens up a bit. I do a lot of plugging and unplugging as I don't really have a pedalboard, just whatever I happen to be playing with the time. I have not had any issues with any of my pedals or the ones I've sent to my brother and my buddy that I've built a few pedals for. But like @delayed I don't sell anything, might be a different story if I had to deal with whiney customers......:)
 
Does it make sense that my LED problems come from a bad DC jack? The effect works, but not the LED. I tried flipping the orientation of the LED because I often screw that up, but it didn't help. These all worked before boxing, but they were tested with a different DC jack than the Tayda.
I have the same issues with a couple of pedals. have you figured this out yet?
 
For what it's worth the SBP knock off ones are indeed different from the tayda ones. The Tayda ones are absolute garbage and the SBP are just ok.. The threads are just a tiny bit better... I use them exclusively because I don't really like the 1/2" hole ones... The trick is just barely get them just snug and then a drop of blue locktight on the threads...
 
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