jimilee
Well-known member
I never was until recently.
What’s on *YOUR* workbench?
- Thread starter Bricksnbeatles
- Start date
AgAuthority
Active member
Brett
Well-known member
This is awesome! A buddy of mine gave me a 1962/1963 Tremolux a while back that was non-functional, re-tolexed in some god-awful paisley black leatherette, and a transformer that was wrecked due to botched wiring (yes, electrical tape was involved). I've since cleaned things up, re-wrapped the shell, replaced the grille cloth, and changed the power filtering caps, but it's been sitting waiting on a transformer. I was quoted somewhere around $600 to refurb the power transformer by Patrick (RIP) at Mercury Magnetics and I declined. Based on @AgAuthority's comment above, I guess I'll have to dig this one back out. Thanks for sharing and caring for a piece of history @EZS!
Harry Klippton
Not Interested
Do you know about Soursound transformers? Dude is a whiz, makes all kinds of really accurate vintage fender transformers, and rewinds too
Brett
Well-known member
I've never heard of them so... THANKS! I'll check them out!
Harry Klippton
Not Interested
He was a guest on the truth about vintage amps podcast a few months ago and seemed extremely knowledgeable
Bricksnbeatles
Member known well
I have 9 125B enclosures to print, but I get a 50¢ price break at 10, which makes it $1.50 cheaper than if I only got 10… anyone have suggestions on what circuit I should do for the 10th enclosure.
@Robert do you have the control layout finalized for the Cordyceps? Might just get a head start on that enclosure if you do.
otherwise, y'all shoot me ideas for what I should build into a 125B. Debating between:
@Robert do you have the control layout finalized for the Cordyceps? Might just get a head start on that enclosure if you do.
otherwise, y'all shoot me ideas for what I should build into a 125B. Debating between:
- Soldat Distortion
- Madbean Stagefright (Maestro MP-1 Phaser)
- Madbean Oracle (Boss CS-3)
- Delyk Up Down Daddy (Pearl OC-7)
- Mini Heterodyne Reciever
- Aloysius Fuzz
- Just a classic Muff of some sort...
- open to other ideas... I have a ton of PCBs laying around, so there's a good chance I have it or something similar. The catch is that I have no ideas on what to do as far as graphics go! Well, not *no* idea for the Aloysius, but that one'll be hard to design
benny_profane
Well-known member
Of course I’m gonna suggest the soldat.I have 9 125B enclosures to print, but I get a 50¢ price break at 10, which makes it $1.50 cheaper than if I only got 10… anyone have suggestions on what circuit I should do for the 10th enclosure.
@Robert do you have the control layout finalized for the Cordyceps? Might just get a head start on that enclosure if you do.
otherwise, y'all shoot me ideas for what I should build into a 125B. Debating between:
- Soldat Distortion
- Madbean Stagefright (Maestro MP-1 Phaser)
- Madbean Oracle (Boss CS-3)
- Delyk Up Down Daddy (Pearl OC-7)
- Mini Heterodyne Reciever
- Aloysius Fuzz
- Just a classic Muff of some sort...
- open to other ideas... I have a ton of PCBs laying around, so there's a good chance I have it or something similar. The catch is that I have no ideas on what to do as far as graphics go! Well, not *no* idea for the Aloysius, but that one'll be hard to design
Bricksnbeatles
Member known well
I’m very eager to build that one, but my hold up is that I need to come up with the perfect Stravinsky-themed graphic before I can commit to it! Since it’s a pretty heavy distortion afaik, I thought maybe notation of one of Stravinsky’s signature doomy-stabby polychords would be cool, but Histoire Du Soldat is mostly consonant and doesn’t have any big stabbing chords the way that ‘The Augurs of Spring’ from The Rite of Spring does.
EZS
Well-known member
This was a customer amp. All it needed was a new recto tube and a set of 6l6's. It looks like it was gone through within 10-15 years noting some parts of the time. Clean work too. A good deoxit and bias and she sounds wonderful. Next up will be a treat. Ill be posting a 61 Concert. another customer amp.
Bricksnbeatles
Member known well
Think I'll be going with the Paper Scratcher Fuzz...I have 9 125B enclosures to print, but I get a 50¢ price break at 10, which makes it $1.50 cheaper than if I only got 10… anyone have suggestions on what circuit I should do for the 10th enclosure.
@Robert do you have the control layout finalized for the Cordyceps? Might just get a head start on that enclosure if you do.
otherwise, y'all shoot me ideas for what I should build into a 125B. Debating between:
- Soldat Distortion
- Madbean Stagefright (Maestro MP-1 Phaser)
- Madbean Oracle (Boss CS-3)
- Delyk Up Down Daddy (Pearl OC-7)
- Mini Heterodyne Reciever
- Aloysius Fuzz
- Just a classic Muff of some sort...
- open to other ideas... I have a ton of PCBs laying around, so there's a good chance I have it or something similar. The catch is that I have no ideas on what to do as far as graphics go! Well, not *no* idea for the Aloysius, but that one'll be hard to design
Was thinking the Norman Greenbaum sound comparison that it typically gets would be good for some... spirits in the sky(walker)
Thoughts? Color; design; concept; anything else worth complaining about
whipped the silhouettes in a few minutes, so I'm open to thoughts of any kind! Should I do a halftone gradient halo effect around them?
Planning on doing it on the new matte clear powder coat since I'm really intrigued by the idea of that
Feral Feline
Well-known member
Further to my enclosure fiasco…
I had sanded out the bodges and hit it with more paint. Then hit it with another coat of paint and it kind of bubbled and wrinkled around the spot I sanded out.
The more I tried to fix it, the bigger the bodge became…
Above, you can see my bubble-wrinkle zone went from a dime-size to more than a quarter. The middle bit of the wrinkleage was where I had sanded to bare metal to fix the 2nd-time bodge; then hit with a blast of adhesion-promoter — the colour looks better than the surrounding paint-on-primer, so…
I peeled off a bit of the bubbly-rubbley with my bare fingers and…
…decided to start from scratch.
Imagine my friend’s Ford in that copper-orange livery!
Shed its skin like a copperhead, I sanded and prepped for repainting.
The source of all this trouble?
Another friend who does detailing figured out what went wrong — the primer was oil-based and the paint wasn’t compatible. My buddy with the cars had said the first bubble-bodge around that the new coat of paint must have reactivated the first coat — he was right, but hadn’t also factored in the primer.
So after sanding through to dime-sized bare metal the newest coat of paint was able to again re-activate the middle primer-layer and Bubbles-yer-auntie.
That coat of paint on the bare-metal over the (clear) adhesion-promoter had looked better, so once the enclosure was stripped the A-P was used as the new primer. I shot a couple coats of colour and then 3 coats of clear, under the guidance of detailer dude.
It would’ve been nice to not have bumped the wet paint the first time around, the original spritz as seen on the bottom enclosure-half (left) looks good even without a clearcoat, but I do prefer how the top came out (right) and I learned a ton.
Next up, wet colour-sanding. Another chance to screw it up, again…
I had sanded out the bodges and hit it with more paint. Then hit it with another coat of paint and it kind of bubbled and wrinkled around the spot I sanded out.
The more I tried to fix it, the bigger the bodge became…
Above, you can see my bubble-wrinkle zone went from a dime-size to more than a quarter. The middle bit of the wrinkleage was where I had sanded to bare metal to fix the 2nd-time bodge; then hit with a blast of adhesion-promoter — the colour looks better than the surrounding paint-on-primer, so…
I peeled off a bit of the bubbly-rubbley with my bare fingers and…
…decided to start from scratch.
Imagine my friend’s Ford in that copper-orange livery!
Shed its skin like a copperhead, I sanded and prepped for repainting.
The source of all this trouble?
Another friend who does detailing figured out what went wrong — the primer was oil-based and the paint wasn’t compatible. My buddy with the cars had said the first bubble-bodge around that the new coat of paint must have reactivated the first coat — he was right, but hadn’t also factored in the primer.
So after sanding through to dime-sized bare metal the newest coat of paint was able to again re-activate the middle primer-layer and Bubbles-yer-auntie.
That coat of paint on the bare-metal over the (clear) adhesion-promoter had looked better, so once the enclosure was stripped the A-P was used as the new primer. I shot a couple coats of colour and then 3 coats of clear, under the guidance of detailer dude.
It would’ve been nice to not have bumped the wet paint the first time around, the original spritz as seen on the bottom enclosure-half (left) looks good even without a clearcoat, but I do prefer how the top came out (right) and I learned a ton.
Next up, wet colour-sanding. Another chance to screw it up, again…
Feral Feline
Well-known member
Given his arm position, you should have Obi giving Yoda "rabbit ears".
Bricksnbeatles
Member known well
Clever, but doesn’t yoda already sorta have rabbit earsGiven his arm position, you should have Obi giving Yoda "rabbit ears".
Feral Feline
Well-known member
Moar better.
Bricksnbeatles
Member known well
Spent some time cleaning it up. Forgot Ben's mustache, so I added that in. Went for a halftone fade out of the background text color. Not dead set on calling the Rip knob Headroom, but it's controlling the DC offset to set the clipping threshold of either the top or bottom of the waveform, so headroom and bias seem like the best options. I'll probably swap it over to Bias since it fits the weight a bit better.
Any other thoughts before I finalize it?
Any other thoughts before I finalize it?
