What’s on *YOUR* workbench?

Recently got a cheap gpio header interface for my rpi3 to experiment with banging my head on the wall over repo/driver configuration problems the various developments in the pi plugins space before deciding if I wanna go all out with a pi5 based modeler or just have something pi3 or pi zero based to cover tuning or time effects. Currently experimenting with piOS lite+pipedal+NAM and trying to get it in a stable config before I wire it up, though I'll probably also try ElkOS+sushi+Proteus at some point.View attachment 63780
Someone totally needs to make a Germanium Pi.
 
Man, I've spent a lot of time troubleshooting the Viceroy now, and I have just one question.

Why can't anyone tell me how the hell would I compare the electrical characteristics of JFET's to see how much amplification each one has?

Q1 is now correctly biased and the pedal sorta works, but only really if I dime the gain, level and juice. Then it's a low-ish gain pedal with juice toggled off, and a medium gain pedal with juice on. But drop gain or level any lower and it just starts sucking.

So it sorta looks like maybe the MMBF4393LT1 is not a substitute for a PF5102 gain wise? That would at least explain the issues I'm having. Either that or I'm losing too much gain in the bass/treble parts, I'll probably check those components again to double check that everything is correct. I've got some extra 2N5457's on the way which supposedly should work as a substitute, so maybe I'll try those next if I don't find anything wrong otherwise.
 
Man, I've spent a lot of time troubleshooting the Viceroy now, and I have just one question.

Why can't anyone tell me how the hell would I compare the electrical characteristics of JFET's to see how much amplification each one has?

Q1 is now correctly biased and the pedal sorta works, but only really if I dime the gain, level and juice. Then it's a low-ish gain pedal with juice toggled off, and a medium gain pedal with juice on. But drop gain or level any lower and it just starts sucking.

So it sorta looks like maybe the MMBF4393LT1 is not a substitute for a PF5102 gain wise? That would at least explain the issues I'm having. Either that or I'm losing too much gain in the bass/treble parts, I'll probably check those components again to double check that everything is correct. I've got some extra 2N5457's on the way which supposedly should work as a substitute, so maybe I'll try those next if I don't find anything wrong otherwise.
I'm not your guy for IEEE insights but after you check values you might want to start a troubleshooting thread and post some photos to get more eyes on the problem.
 
I'm not your guy for IEEE insights but after you check values you might want to start a troubleshooting thread and post some photos to get more eyes on the problem.
The problem there is that it looks like shit after some of the reworking I've done :ROFLMAO:
 
It didn't take you long to become an expert! This looks amazing.
That blue grey has a total 50s vibe that I love! Reminds me of the blue on the speaker I just polished up after pulling it from a danelecteo challenger. Keep it up Stevie! Yer killin it!
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Thank you guys for the kind words! I’m in the middle of powder coating so I’ll post another color way here soon!
 
My beloved Shika is on the bench.

She’s been cutting out in bypass. Couple clicks on the switch and she’d come back. Thought I finally got a bum 3pdt and was gonna have to replace it until I pulled out the loupe for a closer look.

Looks great right?

View attachment 63804

ummmm… nope
View attachment 63805
I'm not sure if it's a good idea in general since I could introduce more cracks or similar, but usually after I've soldered wires to footswitches, I let them cool for a bit and then give the cable a little tug with pliers, just to see if something like that is happening. Or since I use solid core wire, if the wire is only attached on one end I'll twist it around - it's easy to feel whether it spins too easily (as in, the joint has some give) or not.
 
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