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This isn't very scientific but I have built and compared a few circuits made with wima films and tantalums vs everyday caps, the rest of the components were from the same batches of resistors, semiconductors, pots, etc. I could hear a slight difference and preferred the "fancier" builds.
I’m going to say that’s because the higher quality caps don’t have as much drift as the cheap ones. While a single cap won’t make a difference, all the caps should make a significant difference.
 
This isn't very scientific but I have built and compared a few circuits made with wima films and tantalums vs everyday caps, the rest of the components were from the same batches of resistors, semiconductors, pots, etc. I could hear a slight difference and preferred the "fancier" builds.
Okay, putting together a list of film caps to buy between 1nF and 1uF. Is 10% tolerance okay, or is 5% the way to go? :) Just making sure before hitting the basket on all these things.
 
Okay, putting together a list of film caps to buy between 1nF and 1uF. Is 10% tolerance okay, or is 5% the way to go? :) Just making sure before hitting the basket on all these things.
What values are you getting? If your doing an E6 set I would probably do 10% if your doing an E12 I would consider doing 5%. https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/E_series_of_preferred_numbers#:~:text=E6 values,2.2, 3.3, 4.7, 6.8 no really rhyme or reason but in my head that makes sense.
 
What values are you getting? If your doing an E6 set I would probably do 10% if your doing an E12 I would consider doing 5%. https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/E_series_of_preferred_numbers#:~:text=E6 values,2.2, 3.3, 4.7, 6.8 no really rhyme or reason but in my head that makes sense.
Another lesson! E12 seems overkill for pedals, as I don't see that whole range on the pedal parts sites I used to figure the values. So, with E6, I selected 1, 15, 22, 33, 47, 68. Which is 3x6 values for the whole range between 1nf up to 1uf (though I added 1uf and 1,5uf as well, to have some overlap with the electrolytics).

My primary hobby has been woodwork for over a decade. Needed something new to tickle my brain. Buying these 20ct things is just... So pleasant. A whole backpack full of components is like two boards of high grade oak. Being able to have a hobby on a budget for once is simply amazing. 😅
 
Another lesson! E12 seems overkill for pedals, as I don't see that whole range on the pedal parts sites I used to figure the values. So, with E6, I selected 1, 15, 22, 33, 47, 68. Which is 3x6 values for the whole range between 1nf up to 1uf (though I added 1uf and 1,5uf as well, to have some overlap with the electrolytics).

My primary hobby has been woodwork for over a decade. Needed something new to tickle my brain. Buying these 20ct things is just... So pleasant. A whole backpack full of components is like two boards of high grade oak. Being able to have a hobby on a budget for once is simply amazing. 😅
I have an E12 resistor set and E6 capacitors, E3 for electrolytics. Occasionally there are some values I don’t have and then I look at the schematic and try to make as educated a guess as I am able on which direction to round.

I also have a love of woodworking. My screen name refers to a time in my life where I practiced cutting one dovetail by hand every night until I felt competent at it.

I agree that the budget for this hobby is pretty affordable. We are saving to buy a house in Northern California which is pretty expensive so we have to live in a monthly budget. I’m pretty much not able to spend my free portion in the time it takes me to build the pedals.
 
I have an E12 resistor set and E6 capacitors, E3 for electrolytics. Occasionally there are some values I don’t have and then I look at the schematic and try to make as educated a guess as I am able on which direction to round.

I also have a love of woodworking. My screen name refers to a time in my life where I practiced cutting one dovetail by hand every night until I felt competent at it.

I agree that the budget for this hobby is pretty affordable. We are saving to buy a house in Northern California which is pretty expensive so we have to live in a monthly budget. I’m pretty much not able to spend my free portion in the time it takes me to build the pedals.
Ah! Dovetails! Well done. :) I never came to that, as I went straight to building all my own furniture the moment I wanted to move out of my parents' place (buying furniture is a waste of space; better make all fit tightly to make the absolute best of the small place I got myself. I bought used scaffold boards, they bought me a tablesaw and router, and I could go at it in their garden. Learned it all along the way... But since I needed to get things done, I never really sat down for the finer expertise like dovetails. Seeing the wood slide into each other satisfying to watch, so the rush of your perfect build coming together at last, must have been an amazing feeling. Same goes for a lot of Japanese joinery actually; there's an almost liquid quality to these coming together after all that labor. <3
 
I love that special edition color of the MOOD MKII and I was thinking about buying this for the last couple of weeks because it's so expensive (and generally a very weird pedal that I don't necessarily "need"). But it's limited to 2000 pieces and I was watching the stock go down in the European store daily and when there were only 5 pedals left last week I just impulse bought it. 😅🤩

mooood.jpeg
 
1000062115.jpg

More stereo insanity. 😌
Death Cap will be dual concentric (with a 10k pot modded to a non-existing 1K with two resistors in series), like my Supersonic Fuzz Gun. Viceroy dual gang, just like my Mofeta (fun stuff to put before my Mooer stereo cab IR loader, full of Sunn goodies) . Arkaim is going to be dual gang too, because of the C1M input pot. Will get a dry blend circuit addition as well (2 JMK PCBs Panner things).

Curious, if the dipswitch of the updated Megalith can be implemented by hand at some point? Per the manual:

DIPSWITCHES
1. Engages a clipping diode. Increases distortion and compression. Precedes the
tone control section. Effects the negative going part of the waveform. NOTE: Stock
DIP switch setting when in the ON position.
2. Engages a positive going clipping diode which compresses the distortion even
more than DIP switch 1 and effects the frequency content.
3. Boosts low end and signal strength going into the clipping diode section.Very
interactive with DIP 1 and DIP 2.
4. Boosts the mid range within the tone stack.
 
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More stereo insanity. 😌
Death Cap will be dual concentric (with a 10k pot modded to a non-existing 1K with two resistors in series), like my Supersonic Fuzz Gun. Viceroy dual gang, just like my Mofeta (fun stuff to put before my Mooer stereo cab IR loader, full of Sunn goodies) . Arkaim is going to be dual gang too, because of the C1M input pot. Will get a dry blend circuit addition as well (2 JMK PCBs Panner things).

Curious, if the dipswitch of the updated Megalith can be implemented by hand at some point? Per the manual:

DIPSWITCHES
1. Engages a clipping diode. Increases distortion and compression. Precedes the
tone control section. Effects the negative going part of the waveform. NOTE: Stock
DIP switch setting when in the ON position.
2. Engages a positive going clipping diode which compresses the distortion even
more than DIP switch 1 and effects the frequency content.
3. Boosts low end and signal strength going into the clipping diode section.Very
interactive with DIP 1 and DIP 2.
4. Boosts the mid range within the tone stack.
Funny enough, I was looking at the MMK a few hours ago. Just a an effects layouts board for it.
1 and 2 could be done by adding a douple pole switch in place of the clipping diode with one diode on one side, two on the other. Use a 101 switch to have a no clipping option.
3 sounds like a change to the input cap.
4 change of cap in the tonecircuit? Didn't look at that much but probably a change in the filter section ala big muff mids mod.

I was thinking for the clipping mod to populate the clipping diode with a resistor and single led, then adding Si to each end of the switch. Goal being to level match some. But may just leave it as is.
 
Just got my newest batches of enclosures in from Tayda.
Why is it i can get $100 of hardware sent from Thailand for $20 and have it as a pre paid tax service. And get it within a week!
Yet when I order $100 of headware from the USA I pay $40 shipping and get royally shafted with import tax and all the other BS that the carrier claims to need usually equal to at least 75% of the total goods. 🤯 and then it takes at least two weeks to arrive! I’m only in Canada for gods sake!
Anyway rant over.
I’m super impressed. The pic doesn’t do them Justice at all. Much nicer in the flesh as they say.
I worked hard on these and my knowledge of illustrator has grown ten fold thanks to a lot of fine people on here. Including @KR Sound, @Fingolfen and not forgetting @jessenator who I have been recently bugging mercilessly! There are way too many more to mention.
Better finish the builds now! Keep an eye out for build reports at some point but don’t hold your breath. Things move slow round here.
 

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