Tayda UV Printing

Big Monk said:
I goofed around today and added a few utility layers:

1.) Tayda Drill Coordinates - Converts positions for use in Tayda Drill with measurements displayed
2.) PedalPCB Drill Template Positions - Plots out the positions from the drill templates with measurements displayed
3.) Pedal PCB Outline - Since the PedalPCB drill templates are measured to the outer rectangle that seems to correspond to the enclosure bottom, I included this
4.) Hardware - Overlays actual hole diameters, switches dimensions, switch nuts, pot dimensions, PCB dimensions and Knob dimensions. Helps plot out text and graphics

I can now keep master files in Corel draw that can toggle all the utility stuff on and off.

One thing i have not explore is getting the right color swatches should I ever need gloss and white. Right now those layers will stay empty as i can;t see myself needing them anytime soon.
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That seems like a good template. Just be sure to remove all those in your final pdf, for good measure.
 
Big Monk said:
Anyone know where I can find a Roland Versaworks color pallets file to load into Corel Draw?
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Here is the swatches for Tayda's UV printing, not sure how you load them into CorelDraw (Google will be your friend)
Big Monk said:
I was playing around tonight with Fuzz Face graphics and ill need a white layer on those. Is it absolutely necessary to use the Roland White color for Tayda printing?
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Yes it is!
 

Attachments

Big Monk said:
Quick question about using white: If I have a shape that will need to be printed in white on a black background, I need to copy that shape into the white layer in the exact position and then fill with RDG_White.
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Exactly.
Either move the shape to the WHITE layer
OR
sse the "duplicate" function to make sure that it's at the same position (if you want to keep a mock-up copy in the COLOR layer).
Big Monk said:
Can I also have that shape in the color layer in normal white so it shows in my mockups?
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Yes, but be sure to remove it in your final pdf for printing.
 
Yeah, one of the things that really sucks about Affinity Designer (and Corel it seems) is that they just don't export out a solid PDF with layers and sizing done correctly. I have no clue why either. I mean, these are supposed to be print design tools, right? Why the imperfections? Weird!
 
You've likely looked but maybe there are some file import settings that are defaulting to a particular size constraint?

I haven't used Corel since the 90s (Corel 4?), but some graphics packages have settings for everything.
 
Can you convert the text to a path, copy it, then do some sort of ‘grow’ or ‘expand’ function? I’m unfamiliar with Corel, but that’s what would work in Gimp or Affinity Designer.

Edit: this may help.
 
Did you try the other method in the linked pdf? It seems like you have a stroke assigned to the resulting object.

EDIT: Glad you got it sorted.
 
Big Monk said:
Goofing around with a graphic with a bunch of detail for the Sorcerer:

View attachment 18904
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I just sent Tayda a question asking if they print first or drill first when you order a pre-drilled enclosure with UV printing.
I also just asked if we need to delete the holes from the graphics if they pass over a drill hole. For some reason I don't get consistent results with Illustrator for the holes. Deleting offset text from the graphic works consistently. I am sure it is user error but if Tayda says we don't need to bother it would save some time!
 
SYLV9ST9R said:
It can get pretty detailed. I think your design will come out nicely.

View attachment 6755
Pic looks grainy a bit because I played with it to show the design more, and it has matte gloss.
Pretty satisfied with the finished product. I had 4 enclosure and they all came out great (the other 3 were pretty simple designs), you'll see them later this fall ;)
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Did you vectorize an existing image or did you make the snake directly from vectors? It looks quite detailed.
Is there such a thing as a template with this borders/input-output indicators/negative pole info?
 
I’m having my dad apply the Roland swatches to some files and convert them to PDFs tonight. Anyone well versed in the Tayda UV printing willing to take a look at a few of the PDFs to see if I did it right at some point?
 
Has anyone ever had a pedal printed without vectorizing the image first? If you place the image (created in photoshop with correct dimensions) and save your pdf in illustrator, Im wondering how it would turn out in the end 🧐
 
Ariel said:
Did you vectorize an existing image or did you make the snake directly from vectors? It looks quite detailed.
Is there such a thing as a template with this borders/input-output indicators/negative pole info?
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I used the Image Trace function in Illustrator. You sometimes have to play with the advanced option, and do some cleanup, but I had good results with complex graphics.
 
Chris420 said:
Has anyone ever had a pedal printed without vectorizing the image first? If you place the image (created in photoshop with correct dimensions) and save your pdf in illustrator, Im wondering how it would turn out in the end 🧐
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If I remember, someone did that in the big UV thread. I just vectorize my images by default, especially if I'm going to cut parts of it for superimposed text, holes, etc.
 
Chris420 said:
Has anyone ever had a pedal printed without vectorizing the image first? If you place the image (created in photoshop with correct dimensions) and save your pdf in illustrator, Im wondering how it would turn out in the end 🧐
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It doesn't.. work. The printer requires vector instructions to actually print the lines properly. You can see examples of people forgetting to vectorise text etc, often it just doesn't come out at all.. other times it shows glitchy lines etc. But it never actually works. You must vectorise!
 
Do you guys have any examples of gloss varnish, matte varnish and no varnish of some of your builds with tayda's uv printing? I'm considering if I need it.
 
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