Tayda UV Printing

Cool, great advice from both of you. Half the battle is just learning the verbage. Like, converting the paths to objects is expanding? I'm sure I'll get it, but man Illustrator is a bear to work with for a novice.
 

quality_jones

Well-known member
Not to jinx you or anything, but when I submitted my files for the "Siren" build (p. 25) all the colored bands actually overlapped each other. I spent a few hours manually correcting it in Affinity Designer only to have the result print just fine with the "bad" file I had already submitted.

In Adobe Illustrator, the feature you want to look for is the "Pathfinder Merge" action. I saw this mentioned quite a bit while looking up the Affinity Designer equivalent (there is none.)
 

benny_profane

Well-known member
Not to jinx you or anything, but when I submitted my files for the "Siren" build (p. 25) all the colored bands actually overlapped each other. I spent a few hours manually correcting it in Affinity Designer only to have the result print just fine with the "bad" file I had already submitted.

In Adobe Illustrator, the feature you want to look for is the "Pathfinder Merge" action. I saw this mentioned quite a bit while looking up the Affinity Designer equivalent (there is none.)
In Affinity Designer, you have to use the boolean operators. It's a bit more labor-intensive than the Adobe Illustrator method. Reference the discussion after this post.
 

AubreySound

Member
Hi everyone!!
So after previous successful prints at Tayda, I've been told my latest batch won't print and don't have 'the proper RDG swatches' even including the exact same files I've previously printed.. Would any of you be kind enough to take a peek at my files in Affinity and see what's up?!?

Thanks in advance!!
 

slacjs

Member
Has anyone had any luck sending a file with a png placed in it that hasn't been turned into a vector? I'm having some trouble getting it to look good. Cheers.
 

Chris420

Member
I can finally say that the Affinity designer way of works with all three layers. I am very happy with this. This has a white layer and white in the color layer with gloss varnish on top.

View attachment 12460

Here is my POC for scanning in hand painted enclosures and making Tayda prints:

Original:

View attachment 12461

Print:
View attachment 12462

The card on the bottom is shadow from the phone.

Excited!!
I Love the J5 pedal thats really awesome. Im building an actual small robot J5 but its been on the back burner in a bin of parts for a long while lol

34E82695-8452-4AFB-81E5-11B492410BB4.jpeg 89F90A73-29C0-4F68-B443-9C61F71A61B1.jpeg 702140F2-2FBF-4E2D-8146-B65FDC598C3A.jpeg 57C35526-B7F7-4EE6-902F-167E19B7905F.jpeg
 

AubreySound

Member
Been fighting with getting the graphics to print the way I'd like..
Left: First attempt. My whites weren't properly white and letters came out unsharp. I initially didn't like the white under the buffalo (now I do!) Didn't like my logo being so dark either.
Center: Second go. chose to not put any white under the buffalo.. it looks OK but only from certain angles. Whites came out perfect and sharp.
Right: Third go: Thought I'd try for a brigher red and put white below the buffalo..looks like a fucking blob, and the white didn't 'bleed' like it did on the first go.
Looks like I'm going to have to take the buffalo from design 1 and make a 4th go before I can actually do a run of these!!
 

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finebyfine

Well-known member
Been fighting with getting the graphics to print the way I'd like..
Left: First attempt. My whites weren't properly white and letters came out unsharp. I initially didn't like the white under the buffalo (now I do!) Didn't like my logo being so dark either.
Center: Second go. chose to not put any white under the buffalo.. it looks OK but only from certain angles. Whites came out perfect and sharp.
Right: Third go: Thought I'd try for a brigher red and put white below the buffalo..looks like a fucking blob, and the white didn't 'bleed' like it did on the first go.
Looks like I'm going to have to take the buffalo from design 1 and make a 4th go before I can actually do a run of these!!

The army green enclosure is by far the trickiest color to work with Tayda does, imho - although some of these issues will apply to any with single color detailed line art (I love the look of the 2nd personally by the way). The army green is such a mid tone brightness that it can wash out whites and blacks at the same time. I just print straight white with two passes when I do an army green one now.

If you're using illustrator you could try approximating the enclosure color (Tayda links to a Pantone color that is technically from Pantone's textile line unfortunately so it won't be 1:1) and using overprint previews. If you do this you'll need to hide any of the spot colors beneath objects you're working with (ie, hide your white spot layer)
 

AubreySound

Member
The army green enclosure is by far the trickiest color to work with Tayda does, imho - although some of these issues will apply to any with single color detailed line art (I love the look of the 2nd personally by the way). The army green is such a mid tone brightness that it can wash out whites and blacks at the same time. I just print straight white with two passes when I do an army green one now.

If you're using illustrator you could try approximating the enclosure color (Tayda links to a Pantone color that is within their textile line unfortunately so it won't be 1:1) and using overprint previews. If you do this you'll need to hide any of the spot colors beneath objects you're working with (ie, hide your white spot layer)
I should note that I'm using affinity. I did drop in the pantone color for the swatch on the last two attempts (first attempt I think I screenshotted one of yours you posted and tried to get it as close as I could haha!)
I have a feeling that white bleed on the first one was some issue with their machine and I won't be able to replicate it.. As much as I'd love to get that maroon buffalo w the white bleed, I think I'll have to just go with an all white design.
 

benny_profane

Well-known member
I have a feeling that white bleed on the first one was some issue with their machine and I won't be able to replicate it.
You should be able to get that again if you add a line stroke that extends beyond the maroon. You'll have to convert it back to a curve before exporting for printing, though.
 

jeffwhitfield

Well-known member
The problem with Affinity is that it spits out a PDF that doesn't preserve the layers. It isn't really a true Adobe PDF...which is problematic in that when Tayda opens up the PDF, they can't see the various layers (ie. GLOSS, COLOR, WHITE). I learned this by downloading a trial of Adobe Illustrator and opening up some of the PDFs I exported from Affinity. Ended up just doing all mine straight in Adobe Illustrator. Would LOVE to get things to work in Affinity. Might need to get Affinity themselves involved to debug the problem.

Beyond that, if you plan on printing on dark enclosures, you'll need to provide a white layer behind your color layer. Otherwise, your color will bleed into the darker enclosure and won't look right. So, white first, then color, then gloss. Setup your layers and make sure to avoid overlapping colors if at all possible. That was the recipe to success for me. :D
 

Chris420

Member
Been fighting with getting the graphics to print the way I'd like..
Left: First attempt. My whites weren't properly white and letters came out unsharp. I initially didn't like the white under the buffalo (now I do!) Didn't like my logo being so dark either.
Center: Second go. chose to not put any white under the buffalo.. it looks OK but only from certain angles. Whites came out perfect and sharp.
Right: Third go: Thought I'd try for a brigher red and put white below the buffalo..looks like a fucking blob, and the white didn't 'bleed' like it did on the first go.
Looks like I'm going to have to take the buffalo from design 1 and make a 4th go before I can actually do a run of these!!
If you want you can post link to the image you want, and i can put it in Ai and get you a pdf that will look the way your real image looks, providing you able to show me how it should look. I already have the proper colours and layers setup to make it look the same as the image would. 🙂
 

AubreySound

Member
The problem with Affinity is that it spits out a PDF that doesn't preserve the layers. It isn't really a true Adobe PDF...which is problematic in that when Tayda opens up the PDF, they can't see the various layers (ie. GLOSS, COLOR, WHITE). I learned this by downloading a trial of Adobe Illustrator and opening up some of the PDFs I exported from Affinity. Ended up just doing all mine straight in Adobe Illustrator. Would LOVE to get things to work in Affinity. Might need to get Affinity themselves involved to debug the problem.

Beyond that, if you plan on printing on dark enclosures, you'll need to provide a white layer behind your color layer. Otherwise, your color will bleed into the darker enclosure and won't look right. So, white first, then color, then gloss. Setup your layers and make sure to avoid overlapping colors if at all possible. That was the recipe to success for me. :D
Yup.. as I said, I put white under the right buffalo, and it didn't get that 'bleed' like the left one. 3 of my other pedals are on black, 1 is on white, so those were easy to do, even w colors!
I might have to get a trial of Illustrator and take a peek, just not stoked on $30/month for it!
 

AubreySound

Member
If you want you can post link to the image you want, and i can put it in Ai and get you a pdf that will look the way your real image looks, providing you able to show me how it should look. I already have the proper colours and layers setup to make it look the same as the image would. 🙂
Thanks. I have 4 other pedals I've successfully printed w Tayda. I fudged the properly adding the RDG swatch on the left one. The other two are correctly done. I'm basically looking to have the buffalo on the left one, with the whites and sharpness of the letters on the other two.. I'm unsure if the 'bleed' was from an issue with my design, or just with Tayda's machine.
Attached are quick phone photos up close of the L and R ones.. notice the one doesn't have the bleed.. but both were done with the buffalo graphic added to the white layer.
 

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Chris420

Member
Thanks. I have 4 other pedals I've successfully printed w Tayda. I fudged the properly adding the RDG swatch on the left one. The other two are correctly done. I'm basically looking to have the buffalo on the left one, with the whites and sharpness of the letters on the other two.. I'm unsure if the 'bleed' was from an issue with my design, or just with Tayda's machine.
Attached are quick phone photos up close of the L and R ones.. notice the one doesn't have the bleed.. but both were done with the buffalo graphic added to the white layer.
 

Preverb

Active member
Thanks. I have 4 other pedals I've successfully printed w Tayda. I fudged the properly adding the RDG swatch on the left one. The other two are correctly done. I'm basically looking to have the buffalo on the left one, with the whites and sharpness of the letters on the other two.. I'm unsure if the 'bleed' was from an issue with my design, or just with Tayda's machine.
Attached are quick phone photos up close of the L and R ones.. notice the one doesn't have the bleed.. but both were done with the buffalo graphic added to the white layer.
At least both images are recognizable as a bison?

I'm at this step now. I vectorized an image at autotracer.org and it seems to have 100+ elements. How do I apply the proper swatch to it?
 

Chris420

Member
Yes I see what you mean. As mentioned earlier the bleed could be manually added as a white stroke on the buffalo. I also use the base template from tayda (whichever enclosure type you have) and strip it down so that it automatically sets up the layers and colour palates needed. Ai isn't really fun to use but after you get used to the way it all works it’s not so bad. 🙂
 

AubreySound

Member
At least both images are recognizable as a bison?

I'm at this step now. I vectorized an image at autotracer.org and it seems to have 100+ elements. How do I apply the proper swatch to it?
The brighter red one, barely looks like a bison.. it's pretty blobby lol.. the first two look pretty good..
Are you using Affinity, or Illustrator? About a quarter way down this page you'll see the link to download the Roland VersaWorks swatch. You'll
have to import it to your program.
To note.. with Affinity, you have to ensure when you add the RDG White and RDG Gloss to your designs, you're going to want to ensure the swatch is both highlighted and has the little dot.


Tayda Printing Tutorial by Mike.

 

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