A Klon Without the Charge Pump - EL Skeleklone - Dino-ized!

Fingolfen

Well-known member
Build Rating
5.00 star(s)
I'd run into issues with Klon clones not playing nicely with some of my vintage effects - especially the Electric Mistress. After a bit of digging, apparently this is a fairly well-known issue, so I went in search of some Klon-like effects without a charge effect to see if 1) they would play nicely with my (and my friends') old-school modulation effects and 2) if they were close enough in sound to the Klon to be worth the effort. I found a couple of boards, and this is the build report of the first one.

Skelekloned Kentrosaurus - 01.jpg

For this first build I'm using the Effects Layouts Skeleklone MK II PCB - which unfortunately appears to be unavailable at this point. It's a cool design very much based on the original Klon layout, with a few modifications. As such, I decided to go with the normal mix of carbon film and metal film resistors I use on my Klon clones (based on the original Centaur and Ceriatone Centura layouts). I'm using many of the same metal film capacitors I use on those builds as well, though this design makes greater use of higher rated film capacitors, so there are more WIMA capacitors, and fewer electrolytic capacitors in the mix. For the standard diodes, I'm using D2D diodes to mirror the regular Kentrosaurus builds I've done in the past as well. Rather than a charge pump and two single op-amps, the design uses a single quad op-amp and the charge pump is deleted.

Skelekloned Kentrosaurus - 02.jpg

The design also includes a couple of toggle switches. There is one for the "fat" mod which increases the bass on the pedal. There is also a toggle switch that lets you move between two sets of clipping diodes: the normal germanium ones and silicon (1N4148).

The PCB came from Effects Layouts with its own daughter board, and I decided to hand wire the LED so that I could put the LED next to the stomp switch. The daughter board is connected to the PCB with a single ribbon cable. The jacks are all connected directly to the main PCB with aviation grade hook-up wire. All of the jack connections are insulated with heat shrink tubing as well.

Skelekloned Kentrosaurus - 03.jpg

For the enclosure, I decided to have a bit of fun. Since the original PCB was the "Skeleklone" and I'd already done a Kloned Kentrosaurus - going to a Skelekloned Kentrosaurus was a very small jump! I found a really nice image of a Kentrosaurus Skeleton and went with basic white on black for the rest of the enclosure - including white and silver knobs.

In terms of the sound, it is definitely Klon-like, but I really need to work with it more to get a more detailed feel for it. I'm also going to hand one off to a friend to get additional feedback on. Given the PCB for this one appears to be going out of production, I may end up only building a couple of these. I have an alternate PCB design for a Klon sans charge pump I'm going to try as well which will be the subject of a future build report.

Original blog entry (more preamble): https://steggostudios.blogspot.com/2024/04/an-interesting-take-on-klon-centaur.html
 
Looks great (as all your builds do)!

What is "aviation grade hook-up wire"?

Some day I plan on making a PCB for the Clown Centurion. This also an attempt at simplifying the Klon (including removing the charge pump). Here's yet another design, with the express goal of removing the charge pump: Bare Bone Klone.
The aviation grade hook-up wire is this stuff from Tube Depot: https://tubedepot.com/products/22-ga-tin-plated-aerospace-grade-tefzel-wire-100-feet

I'm going to try the Clown Centurion next - I've got some boards in hand, just haven't gotten them into the build queue.
 
I'd run into issues with Klon clones not playing nicely with some of my vintage effects - especially the Electric Mistress. After a bit of digging, apparently this is a fairly well-known issue, so I went in search of some Klon-like effects without a charge effect to see if 1) they would play nicely with my (and my friends') old-school modulation effects and 2) if they were close enough in sound to the Klon to be worth the effort. I found a couple of boards, and this is the build report of the first one.

View attachment 73378

For this first build I'm using the Effects Layouts Skeleklone MK II PCB - which unfortunately appears to be unavailable at this point. It's a cool design very much based on the original Klon layout, with a few modifications. As such, I decided to go with the normal mix of carbon film and metal film resistors I use on my Klon clones (based on the original Centaur and Ceriatone Centura layouts). I'm using many of the same metal film capacitors I use on those builds as well, though this design makes greater use of higher rated film capacitors, so there are more WIMA capacitors, and fewer electrolytic capacitors in the mix. For the standard diodes, I'm using D2D diodes to mirror the regular Kentrosaurus builds I've done in the past as well. Rather than a charge pump and two single op-amps, the design uses a single quad op-amp and the charge pump is deleted.

View attachment 73379

The design also includes a couple of toggle switches. There is one for the "fat" mod which increases the bass on the pedal. There is also a toggle switch that lets you move between two sets of clipping diodes: the normal germanium ones and silicon (1N4148).

The PCB came from Effects Layouts with its own daughter board, and I decided to hand wire the LED so that I could put the LED next to the stomp switch. The daughter board is connected to the PCB with a single ribbon cable. The jacks are all connected directly to the main PCB with aviation grade hook-up wire. All of the jack connections are insulated with heat shrink tubing as well.

View attachment 73380

For the enclosure, I decided to have a bit of fun. Since the original PCB was the "Skeleklone" and I'd already done a Kloned Kentrosaurus - going to a Skelekloned Kentrosaurus was a very small jump! I found a really nice image of a Kentrosaurus Skeleton and went with basic white on black for the rest of the enclosure - including white and silver knobs.

In terms of the sound, it is definitely Klon-like, but I really need to work with it more to get a more detailed feel for it. I'm also going to hand one off to a friend to get additional feedback on. Given the PCB for this one appears to be going out of production, I may end up only building a couple of these. I have an alternate PCB design for a Klon sans charge pump I'm going to try as well which will be the subject of a future build report.

Original blog entry (more preamble): https://steggostudios.blogspot.com/2024/04/an-interesting-take-on-klon-centaur.html
Niiiiice!!!! As I said on Facebook- that circuit will make the 5f2 you built SING!!
 
Lookin good!

I wonder why they’re going out of production? I like the concept, and the pcb layout looks great.

I guess most of the demand in the Klone market is people wanting to find out what all the fuss is about, so they’re looking for something as close to the magic as they can get.
 
Lookin good!

I wonder why they’re going out of production? I like the concept, and the pcb layout looks great.

I guess most of the demand in the Klone market is people wanting to find out what all the fuss is about, so they’re looking for something as close to the magic as they can get.
Having built "stripped down" kind of Klons, the issue is kind of headroom and (surprisingly) oscillations.
With the gain high and higher forward voltage diodes (in one of them even 4148s, in another one LEDs), the circuit kind of broke out into crazy oscillations at higher gain settings. Also having recently built a "partial Klon", at 9V the gain recovery/mixing and tone stage are hit a bit too hard in my ears, causing clipping and compressing some everything way more. Using higher end "rail to rail" op amps probably improves the situation, but so would adjusting gain levels of the mixing stage. The part that most people tend to be ignorant of or overlook, is that in the Klon only the gain recovery and tone stage actually run at ~27V headroom and I'm pretty sure there's good reason for that.

Some guy did a "simplified" Klone without the charge pump and dumbing down a lot of the complexities HERE.
Not a fan of their work, but at least there is more of an effort than "I'll just take out the charge pump, guess it'll be fine".

TL;DR: Suck it up, build a true Klone, not build one at all or tweak the thing considering the lower headroom.
(Or Dinoman here can at least to try and power it off 18V to get at least something reminiscent of that headroom. In my own circuit it actually made a substantial difference.)
 
TL;DR: Suck it up, build a true Klone, not build one at all or tweak the thing considering the lower headroom.
(Or Dinoman here can at least to try and power it off 18V to get at least something reminiscent of that headroom. In my own circuit it actually made a substantial difference.)
I've built several... issue is when you pair it with a vintage electric mistress - the whole thing squeals...
 
Coming at this from another angle… What kind of power supply are you using? I was under the impression that this is exactly the kind of issue a “truly isolated” supply should address.

Just as a test, if you power your charge-pump equipped Klon with a battery, does the problem persist?

I also presume there are ways to better reduce whatever noise the charge pump is generating, perhaps with better filtering. There are also numerous other boost converters, but they all have more complex implementations (e.g. involve an inductor).
 
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