Hard Rock Pinnacle Purebred Drive (Animals Diamond Peak CDB mod), new PCB revision

MattG

Well-known member
Build Rating
5.00 star(s)
As I've mentioned in a few recent posts, I'm really taken with the modified Animal Diamond Peak drive designed by @Chuck D. Bones. I created a PCB for this circuit earlier this year, and called it the "Hard Rock Pinnacle Purebred Drive", see my build report.

I recently revised the PCB. The previous board worked just fine, but l felt compelled to add a few quality-of-life improvements:
  • I added an (optional) LDO to the relay bypass sub-circuit. The original forced the relay to run at the same voltage as the effect itself (presumably 9v); this change allows the relay to run at 5v, so the effect itself can run at an arbitrary voltage (e.g. 12v or 18v)
  • Changed the potentiometer spacing (i.e. drill offsets) to match PedalPCB's 4-knob boards
  • Use giant TO-39 footprints for Q2 and Q3; these are the "money" transistors that you might want to experiment with; I got some low-HFE 2N2218A's from @StompBoxParts (I measured hfe 64 on my CCT)
  • Try to avoid capacitors on at least one side of pot solder holes to make assembly easier
  • Use larger footprints for C10 and C11 to more easily facilitate silver mica capacitors
  • Ensure trimpots are adjacent to their corresponding test points

Definitely evolutionary rather than revolutionary. I built up two of these new PCBs, but so far have only put one in an enclosure. This is my familiar mandala stickers and Envirotex finish. Last year, I built a Mach 1 with a similar finish, but have since sold that pedal. I always thought it looked nice, so wanted to create a similar aesthetic with the revised Hard Rock Pinnacle.

Not much to say that hasn't been said in my previous build report! It's great!

The knobs are aluminum 1510-style knobs. They are more expensive than plastic, but so worth it IMO! I don't think I can ever go back to plastic knobs now!

It worked on first power-up. The only minor issue was that I could not get Q3's bias voltage to 4.6v - I only got it up to about 4.25v. So I had to remove R11 (7k5) and replaced it with a 1k. I did that from the top of the board to spare myself having to take the whole thing apart. I just barely kissed the trimpot with the soldering iron, but otherwise the "surgery" went pretty well.

As always, I have a few extra boards I'm happy to give away, PM me if interested.
 

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How do you like the 2N2218? I found them a nice option for a lot of things. Great for Si Fuzzface.

I only bought four of them, and so far have only used the two in this circuit. It definitely sounds great. I put it side-by-side against the previous version I've been using, which uses metal can 2n2369 (HFE 59 per my CTT). The difference - if there is one - is very subtle, and could readily be explained by part tolerances. But, if nothing else - the big metal can TO-39 looks badass!
 
I like them in the Electra as well.

Kudos on the PCB evolution, it’s really nice to see so many great layouts on the forum these days.

Totally agree with the metal knobs, I got some smaller Daier ones and they make the difference. For anything worth keeping , they’re my go to!
 
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