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Your choice, but rubbing alcohol cleans better.

Pretty sure that 4558 is fake, I don't think they have that 1/2 moon divot.

With waterslides I always wipe the enclosure down with IPA, put the slide on work the air bubbles out and let it dry. I had an issue similar this on a Ball Silver enclosure where it looked like the adhesive swirled around under the waterslide, but it was consistent over the surface and actually...

I have Hakko version.

I'm no good at these things, I change my mind halfway through as well as almost daily, depends on what I'm doing or going for mostly.

I ordered the DSOTM and Voodoo ones.

I noticed they also have Tayda ready drill guides and UV print files for some of their boards.

What did you use to remove the solder? If you don't have one get an Engineer's brand solder sucker...

A lighted magnifier is a great tool for inspecting solder joints

I was going to circle that one as a possible bridge and thought no he would have surely seen that!

The joints circled in blue are how they should look, any thing else is suspect.

There's a lot of joints on that board that look suspicious, all the ones that look balled up should be reflowed.

Need to see jack wiring

I think your output jack is wired backwards, hard to tell from these photos. Edit: Actually I think both are backwards

Does this mean live fishing demos are coming soon? :ROFLMAO:

Haven't seen any new builds from Michael in a while, I really enjoy his demo's.

Try the stuff from Love My Switches

I wouldn't call it bad soldering practice, many people do it that way.

If I'm building three or four of the same pedal I've found it best to build and test one, make any changes or corrections, and then I'll do the others simultaneously.

You could bend the leads all the way to the board and snip them at the edge of the solder pad, then go through and solder all at once, it might make removal a bit more difficult if you had to replace something.