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Rangemasters have a high impedance output (and thus usually interact or loads with whatever comes next) so you might just be losing a bit of oomph by going into the buffer. You might also be clipping the buffer, especially if it's not biased evenly, causing more perceived volume loss. Are you...

I use a screwdriver looking tip. I also prefer the 63/37 solder, been so long since I used the other stuff I forget what it's like. I find I don't need to run my iron higher than 550F for most things (using leaded solder)--I only go above if using lead-free solder, or I'm soldering to a part...

Barbershop immediately jumps to mind--one of my favorite overdrives, and I would call it a low-gain fuzzy OD. Another option is the Tubebender. If you want one that more straddles the line of fuzz than OD, then Fuzz Aldrin.

We strive to build like Chris, not be like Chris.

Did you look at the schematic for the BYOC Brown Face Tremolo? If so you'll see that it is not compatible with the bypass switch you are using--which is why the stripboard diagram tells you how to wire it directly to the switch rather than just specifying input and output like other circuits...

Did you get balls deep though?

I've used sockets for most transistors and ICs on my builds, and haven't encountered issues when using them. I don't put my pedals into rigorous enough use to knock anything loose. If I were building for others I'd probably solder them though. Given the number of times I've inserted a...

https://www.amplifiedparts.com/products/transistor-socket-mill-max-3-pin-machine-pin-through-hole

I used a 100nf film cap. I only use it in pedals.

Just was going to reiterate Harry's advice to add audio probing to your troubleshooting repertoire --this helps pinpoint where your signal is getting messed up. If you search this forum you'll find advice on how to build them--it's really only a capacitor and some leads.

Don't have a cabsim yet--been meaning to build one though, that'll be for a future project. I was thinking of doing the cabsim for use with the headphone amp (which I also have on my wish list).

where do you plan to get the old cheap "mojo" parts? For the jfets, I would stick to the ones listed in the BOM. If you are swapping, you can't really rely on part number, you'd probably want to measure the Vp and Idss of the parts to be sure they'd work. For J201, try to match Idss between...

You might be overthinking it--what do you need from a practicing amp? My main practice/home playing amp is Vox Rhythm Mini 5, which has a 6.5". It's fine. I also sometimes play my 12" amp combo at home (which is too loud but I just turn it down) and it's fine. A lot of people use...

maybe try pulling out the charge pump, running at 9v might be less headroom and more interesting? I wasn't that impressed by this one either--it's like they neutered a rat.

I googled it for you, first hit: https://www.hobby-hour.com/electronics/s/arion-sch1-chorus.php

I've built one and it behaves like a typical overdrive, and can get volume boost out.

with two clipping diodes and an op-amp, it's likely a son of tubescreamer type thing or a 250/dist+ type thing. I would guess the former, but if you can tell if the clipping diodes are in the feedback loop of the op-amp you'd have more information. Can you get a shot of the other side of the...

In the build doc photo, there are 8 capacitors in a row. In the picture of your board there are 6 capacitors in a row, and 2 at the bottom corners. So 2 of the 8 capacitors were relocated from the row to the bottom. These two are C6 (5n6) and C14 (2n2). Remaining 6 in a row should be C4, C3...

the 5.6n is C6 and the 2n2 is C14. They just got moved in your PCBs layout, whereas they were crammed tightly in printed layout.

I got to see RFTC. And I thought I would never see DLJ, but was psyched when they did a reunion tour and caught them.