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I have seen a few Youtube videos on making a jig like in the link below. Can be used to cut box joints without a dado stack. https://www.instructables.com/How-to-Cut-a-Box-Joint-Without-a-Dado-Stack/

That one is about 4.5 inches. I did another one that is 2.5 inches thick and think that is about as thin as I would go. This one I spliced the outlet/switch straight into a 3 outlet power strip. I also cobbled together a box around the wires for safety. Not the prettiest job but it works.

I've made a few and I like adding a power switch and outlet to them. This was a first attempt at a Schmidt style board mostly made out of an Ikea MDF table top. Had a roll of walnut glue backed veneer and used that to try to hide some of the crappy MDF edges.

Did you test in an enclosure?

Every now and then if I find a good deal or want to support a local music store that has something interesting. Also can't pass up any broken/as is pedals I find. Replaced the power protection diode in a few EHX's, loose jack in a BBE etc. Just like most of what I build here the journey...

I picked up this one a couple months ago and have been very happy with it. They have a more compact one that "docks" with a battery pack if you really need a smaller one.

Ikea includes these L brackets with pretty much every shelf/dresser/etc for the past few years: I found a few in my parts bin and used them to mount my CS6.

The Egnater Tweaker is pretty sweet. I've had mine for quite a while and it sounds great.

Not sure there is anyway to make them stick on curves, I struggled with that as well. Finally just started making them a bit smaller so everything stayed on the flat surface.

Beat me to it 😁

Ran into the same problem. Bought two of the cheap programmers on eBay and used the chip from one of them. Put a small flathead screwdriver under the edge of the chip and heated the legs. Popped off pretty clean.

One of the easier builds I've completed, just take your time drilling as there are a lot of holes on this one, Used a dremel and cutting wheel to make the hole for USB and cleaned up with files. Tested a few programs and worked fine first try. Now to learn how to write some new effects for it...

I've been lurking and building for a while, thought I would share some of the builds. :) No issues with this build. My first time using acrylic paint markers came out better than I had thought but my handwriting is terrible. Pretty wild sounding delay, should be fun.

Could go the other route and change the patch cables. I have been looking at the SquarePlug SPS4 connectors: Not cheap, but look really nice and would fix the problem. If you absolutely need right angle the SP400 plugs might fit as well.

Looks great. I used the same etching technique on two pedals so far but they are not as dark as yours. Look forward to seeing your tutorial.

It will fit. I've done this with an Arachnid as well as the FV1 dev PCB. The orange one is the dev board and the pink is the Arachnid. Also added the small toggle switch to the Arachnid for switching between the internal FV1 programs.

Curious if there has been any progress on making the PedalPCB FV-1 programs available for us to flash ourselves?