2 pcbs, order switcher, but ONE footswitch…
- Thread starter itstimtime
- Start date
Think about it this way- The thing you want to bypass is the comp, order switcher and preamp combination. Which means your bypass switch will connect to the in/out of your order switcher.
From your input jack, go to the bypass switch. Then, like Nic said, your yellow wire in that first pic goes to the input on the order switcher.
From your input jack, go to the bypass switch. Then, like Nic said, your yellow wire in that first pic goes to the input on the order switcher.
itstimtime
New member
I’ll have to try and draw something out for confirmation. Little confused haha @Erik S might be right!
When using PedalPCB breakout boards:
PCB 1 IN = S1
PCB 1 OUT = R1
PCB 2 IN = S2
PCB 2 OUT = R2
LED = SW
JACK IN = leftmost pad on bypass board
JACK OUT = rightmost pad on bypass board
IN of bypass board connected to IN of order board (same for OUT)
Edit: For clarification, it's easiest to just think of both effects for this particular case as one – which they kind of are, since the output of the first will always be connected to the input of the second when enabled. So, for true-bypass we only need to ground one input (whichever is first, as determined by the order switch), which makes the wiring for this quite simple.
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itstimtime
New member
Thank you! Saw this when I was at work and came up with this as soon as I got home…
Looking close?
Attachments
Yep, looks good.
Feral Feline
Well-known member
Late to the party — seems it's all covered but here's my stab at at the dead horse anyway:
Maybe switch the ground for the LED by placing the center lug of the bypass in series with the fourth pole of the order switch?
The the order led also functions as bypass led.
Oooooor, add more resistance when in bypass via series center lug so you have a dimmed indicator of order when bypassed(vs no indicator or the need for a second active/bypass indicator)
Feral Feline
Well-known member
I like/prefer your DIMMED idea, as that way you know in advance which channel/order will be active when you engage the pedal.
Of course, if it's not a footswitch but rather a toggle, then I'd just wire it up as per LOWPITCH's post #6 and skip the LED for the order switcher, at least.
Then again, my eyesight's not getting better, might go with an LED even with the Toggle, after all!
Of course, if it's not a footswitch but rather a toggle, then I'd just wire it up as per LOWPITCH's post #6 and skip the LED for the order switcher, at least.
Then again, my eyesight's not getting better, might go with an LED even with the Toggle, after all!
itstimtime
New member
I like/prefer your DIMMED idea, as that way you know in advance which channel/order will be active when you engage the pedal.
Of course, if it's not a footswitch but rather a toggle, then I'd just wire it up as per LOWPITCH's post #6 and skip the LED for the order switcher, at least.
Then again, my eyesight's not getting better, might go with an LED even with the Toggle, after all!
I wasn’t even thinking about a status led, but I like the idea of a bi-color! What you now got me thinking about (obsessively) is bi-color leds on the pcb’s spdt switches. In this case the simulcast’s on-off-on and the general tso’s on-on
Edit: shit would the on-off-on even be able to light an led in the middle position since it’s ‘off’?
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jimilee
Well-known member
NoI wasn’t even thinking about a status led, but I like the idea of a bi-color! What you now got me thinking about (obsessively) is bi-color leds on the pcb’s spdt switches. In this case the simulcast’s on-off-on and the general tso’s on-on
Edit: shit would the on-off-on even be able to light a led in the middle position since it’s ‘off’?
itstimtime
New member
Well damn lol
Feral Feline
Well-known member
I wasn’t even thinking about a status led, but I like the idea of a bi-color! What you now got me thinking about (obsessively) is bi-color leds on the pcb’s spdt switches. In this case the simulcast’s on-off-on and the general tso’s on-on
Edit: shit would the on-off-on even be able to light an led in the middle position since it’s ‘off’?
Well, JimiLee's correct.
I had a play with trying to make a bi-colour LED light up both its colours with a variety of switch configurations and it was a no-go.
If there's a way to do it, I couldn't figure it out.
However, I did wrangle a way to get your single-pole switchard to light up using an RGB-LED, and shoving the whole steaming pile onto a 4PDT!
I couldn't find any ON-ON-ON 3PDT's for sale, though I did find references to them and how they work, though in this case it may not have worked at all and blahblahdeeblah... You take what you can get, and in this case it's a 4PDT and 4-legged LED.
SO, most people would only need the toggle's position* itself as a visual cue to what it's to do, but for those of you who would cause a to-do because you must do with an extra visual cue when the pedal's far from you... for those few who do need to imbue that colourful delightful brew of hues — here's what I would choose to use to illuminate and thus eliminate those unlit-toggle blues...
Toggle Down = top row connected to common, RED & BLUE (gives you magenta)
Toggle Centre = no connection for SW-1, BLUE ONLY
Toggle Up = bottom row connected to common, GREEN & BLUE (gives you cyan)
NOTE the JUMPERS; also, there are different kinds of on-on-on configurations, so make sure you know which configuration your middle position is when ordering 4PDT on-on-on switches. Read the datasheet(s)!
That gives you 3 different colours, one for each position of SW-1. You could stick any of the three colours in the middle position, for instance if you wanted a YELLOW light, you'd combine RED & GREEN.
Since the individual colours on the RGB-LED each have a different forward voltage from their neighbouring colours, it would be best to breadboard the switch to determine what value each CLR needs to be for an even brightness (if so desired!) and colour mixed to taste.
Here's a quick 1-minute primer on colour-mixing with light:
*long-bat's a better cue than a stubby toggle-shrew
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