I’ve had much better luck on eBay than Amazon, but it’s a dice roll every time. I’ve said it before and I’ll say it again - buying off eBay and Amazon is sort of like going to a casino: don’t pay more than you’re prepared to loseIt’s tough I’ve had it to both ways. I’ve found an eBay seller wirb 3207/3102 sets I have bought several of all work great for 1.50ish a pair. I’ve gotten burned on every charge pump I’ve bought. It’s just a risk vs reward really in my experience.
You might check this thread to see if it helps at allFound these on Amazon but I don’t know if I should trust them at this price? Everywhere I look in Canada they are $4.80-$5.11 per unit. How can I tell if these are genuine CA3240EZ op- amps?View attachment 54119
Thanks I’ll check it out.You might check this thread to see if it helps at all
Thread 'Face Melter IC'
https://forum.pedalpcb.com/threads/face-melter-ic.3473/
Thanks. This is very interesting unfortunately this will be my first build and I don’t know to much about electronics.Always wanted to order a couple of these.
If you have the kit to do so, can compare 2 different opamps.
Definitely want to socket the IC. Fwiw I think you’d be fine to sub a TL072.Thanks. This is very interesting unfortunately this will be my first build and I don’t know to much about electronics.
I’d recommend giving in to the high price of a known chip then—you’ve got all sorts of good times ahead, but troubleshooting is generally not fun (until it is!) and a faulty chip can complicate things.Thanks. This is very interesting unfortunately this will be my first build and I don’t know to much about electronics.
Thanks. But again I’m new to the electronics game like this so I don’t know much about testing with breadboards. I am having to learn everything from scratch.It's easy to measure the bias current with a breadboard & a DMM. That's a good test to see if it has a CMOS input stage. Fake ones won't be CMOS.
Sounds like your work/life balance is outta whackI breadboarded it with a single op amp and was working on a schematic and layout but then got derailed by my actual job. I also wanted to simplify the components in the moist/gushing path. It’s a fun pedal and sounds good. Would be good to have a redesign that makes better use of the space and uses more readily available components. I’ll try to get back at ‘er…
Oh man, is it ever.Sounds like your work/life balance is outta whack
We should talk off-line about the other dipshittery in that circuit. You can save a few more parts and have the same tone...
I know a little about CMOS handling and a tiny bit about electronics. Enough to be dangerous lol. Built a few computer but nothing like this. My engineering brain is tickled by stuff like this so I should be able to figure out everything and if not I have this amazing forum to confide in.If you are buying semiconductors on eBay or Amazon, you must be able to test them. Otherwise, you will wind up with Fugazi parts. Too many sellers on Amazon & eBay know less than you do about the stuff they're selling. Hanlon's Razor notwithstanding, there are probably some unscrupulous sellers who deliberately sell crap too.
Something else to think about: CMOS parts are very susceptible to ESD (static electricity) damage. If the seller or their supplier do not handle and package the parts correctly, you could end up with wounded parts. I returned a microprocessor on eBay because it was not packaged properly. The seller apologized and admitted that they had no clue how to properly handle CMOS.