Anybody here into feet?

Erik S

Erik S

Well-known member
I’ve been labeling my controls with Posca pens, then applying an aerosol clear coat. On the first batch I didn’t clear coat the bottom plates, but I’ve got a batch in the works where I sprayed the bottoms. I’m worried about the clear taking the abuse.

I’ve seen some different styles of the little stick on feet, but never tried any.

Love em? Hate em? Good ones? Bad ones?
 
I swear i'm not kink shaming but I wouldn't get attached to the bottom of an enclosure. If you're going to put the pedal on a board just use your velcro system and move on with your life. If it's a special or non standard enclosure that is going to be on the floor you can protect it with tape before applying velcro or use any adhesive rubber feet
 
I have a Temple Audio pedal board with their locking-plate attachment system. I set up some pedals that way before I started building, but now I’ve soured on that system a bit. I’ll probably convert that board to Velcro at some point, but I haven’t done it yet. In the mean time I’m just letting things slide around on the metal surface.

I primarily build for myself, but I do have a group of friends who I’ve been letting buy up anything they’re interested in, so I like the idea of not committing to an attachment system.

Tape is a good suggestion whether I wanted to go with feet or Velcro though.
 
Erik S said:
I’ve been labeling my controls with Posca pens, then applying an aerosol clear coat. On the first batch I didn’t clear coat the bottom plates, but I’ve got a batch in the works where I sprayed the bottoms. I’m worried about the clear taking the abuse.

I’ve seen some different styles of the little stick on feet, but never tried any.

Love em? Hate em? Good ones? Bad ones?
Click to expand...
3M SJ-5302 Clear

I bought a sheet that’ll probably last a couple years
 
1.5" Velcro, by the roll. The earthquake rated stuff. I use the felt made for speaker enclosures covering. You can turn the pedal board upside down and shake it and they won't come off. Of course I did this over a bed in case they did.....
 
I don't use feet, but I had some weird problems early on with my velcro coming off. I use the 3M Dual Lock, and it was sticking better to the clear coat than the clear coat was sticking to the paint. I now wait a lot longer on fresh clear before trying to stick anything to it. I think the clear is still curing for several days (maybe longer) after it feels dry. I also leave them sitting upside down on the knobs for a while so that it has time to cure without touching anything. I'd give it the same treatment for feet.
 
chip said:
I don't use feet, but I had some weird problems early on with my velcro coming off. I use the 3M Dual Lock, and it was sticking better to the clear coat than the clear coat was sticking to the paint. I now wait a lot longer on fresh clear before trying to stick anything to it. I think the clear is still curing for several days (maybe longer) after it feels dry. I also leave them sitting upside down on the knobs for a while so that it has time to cure without touching anything. I'd give it the same treatment for feet.
Click to expand...
I Definitely agree on giving the clear adequate curing time before messing with it.

I’ve got some enclosures curing now that I stuck electrical wire-nuts in the holes to spray the bottoms, and I’ve got them sitting on the nuts while I wait.

D0E77EA9-8C8E-4D8A-8A15-D499FF54A5F5.jpeg
 
Erik S said:
then applying an aerosol clear coat
Click to expand...
which clear coat do you use? I was using Rustoleum Enamel because it's what I had on hand, but I'm running out and wondering if I should stick with it or find something different.
 
spi said:
which clear coat do you use? I was using Rustoleum Enamel because it's what I had on hand, but I'm running out and wondering if I should stick with it or find something different.
Click to expand...
I'm using some random stuff I picked up at a garage sale. Seems okay. Impact Performance Products UV stable clear coat.

I always grab spray paint at Garage/ moving sales when I see it. People at that point are often thinking of that stuff more as hazmat than having any value and let it go super cheap.

When it runs out I think I might look for something more semi-gloss or matte. The stuff I have now is pretty high gloss and shows up every imperfection really well. It also looks a little funny on the sand-finish enclosures.
 
spi said:
which clear coat do you use? I was using Rustoleum Enamel because it's what I had on hand, but I'm running out and wondering if I should stick with it or find something different.
Click to expand...
I've used the rustoleum clears several times. If you get the 2X Clear or Professional Clear, expect it to take a long time to cure.

I switched to the rustoleum Automotive clear. It dries much faster as it's a different type of paint, I believe Laquer over Enamel type.

Rust-Oleum-Automotive

If you have a spray-gun setup, you can get quart cans and spray it, it seems to cure up faster this way.

I switched over to just buying rustoleum in cans and mixing my own colors. I thinned them with Acetone, and that significantly reduced time between spraying and handling. Usually less than an hour and I could sand and apply more coats or mask off do other colors.


With a few cans of rustoleum Pro you can have your own custom color mixing setup.
 
Darn, I thought this thread was going to have some good toe-cleavage ...

images
images

st_vincent-apogees_berkley_street_studio_ACY1729.jpg
Fish Pedalboard.png
HNKR_180812_HOUGHTON_2018-4790-2.jpg


Wrong thread,
different forum...​
 
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