Archibald - archi-baffled

[jhaneyzz]

Assembling a MadBean Archibald and trying to decipher the instructions.

If I solder the tube board to the header pins on the “solder side” it seems to me the tube will end up on the “btm” of the tube board rather than the “top”

I can’t seem to find any gut shots showing the proper orientation.

 

[joelorigo]

Assembling a MadBean Archibald and trying to decipher the instructions.

If I solder the tube board to the header pins on the “solder side” it seems to me the tube will end up on the “btm” of the tube board rather than the “top”

I can’t seem to find any gut shots showing the proper orientation.

Hmm. I ordered this a few days ago so I'm interested in this answer. If I zoom into the photos on the NOTES page of the build documents, the one on the left looks like the SOLDER SIDE - the BTM - is flipped compared to how you have it now. It looks like the tube socket is soldered to the TOP side. Here's a screenshot of the zoomed in image.

 

[RetiredUnit1]

This is how the BOTTOM of a 9 pin tube socket is oriented. Notice the 9. Now if you look at your second picture, you'll see the thick conductor is indeed on 9 as well as 4 & 5, this to support the current required for the heaters. So the side that says TOP is the side the tube will be on. The side that says BTM is indeed the bottom. Can't really see enough of anything else to verify anything other than that......

 

[jhaneyzz]

I found the netry below in the Madbean Forums which complete clarifies it.

Archibald tube board.

Archibald tube board.

www.madbeanpedals.com

I read, it, complete understood it. then promptly soldered the header pin on the CORRECT side, but UPSIDE DOWN.. arghhhh.. had to basically had to cut it out and make my own jig to create a decent looking set of pins.

The photos below make it pretty clear.

Also, I purchased some really nice heat sinks for TO-220 size regulators on Amazon and they came the next day for like $6.50.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078ZXZ1GN?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1

 

[jhaneyzz]

Hmm. I ordered this a few days ago so I'm interested in this answer. If I zoom into the photos on the NOTES page of the build documents, the one on the left looks like the SOLDER SIDE - the BTM - is flipped compared to how you have it now. It looks like the tube socket is soldered to the TOP side. Here's a screenshot of the zoomed in image.

The key is that the term "SOLDER SIDE" label is meant as a direction for the tube socket, NOT the Header bar.

 

[joelorigo]

Also, I purchased some really nice heat sinks for TO-220 size regulators on Amazon and they came the next day for like $6.50.

Th build document says it’s not necessary but maybe it’s a good idea. Are you planning on drilling any holes in the enclosure for heat dissipation?

 

[jhaneyzz]

Ha. I am, but are you jokingly referring to the pictures I posted last week where I accidentally drilled the phono and power jacks in the front of the enclosure???

 

[joelorigo]

Haha, no I'm not. I did see that though.

 

[jhaneyzz]

I'm going to drill holes so you can SEE the cool tube. the ventilation will just be a convenient side effect.

The LM317 voltage regulator will get hot to the touch, but not even close to overheating anything. There was one report of a board failing in a pervious version, but that was when it had a big copper pad under the regulator which basically turned the entire PCB into the heat sink. Not the best design decision, but I probably would have done the same thing... simply floating the regulator above the board, or attaching a heat sink will easily allow for enough heat dissipation.

But let's get our priorities straight... holes in enclosures look bad-ass.

 

[MichaelW]

I found the netry below in the Madbean Forums which complete clarifies it.

Archibald tube board.

Archibald tube board.

www.madbeanpedals.com

I read, it, complete understood it. then promptly soldered the header pin on the CORRECT side, but UPSIDE DOWN.. arghhhh.. had to basically had to cut it out and make my own jig to create a decent looking set of pins.

The photos below make it pretty clear.

Also, I purchased some really nice heat sinks for TO-220 size regulators on Amazon and they came the next day for like $6.50.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078ZXZ1GN?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1

Those pins look great @jhaneyzz, watching this thread to see what to avoid when I build mine.....

 

[jhaneyzz]

For those following along, the heat sink I bought for the voltage regulator is pretty deep so I soldered some lengths of 18 gauge solid wire to the legs to extend them to the solder pads. If you do this make sure you bend the legs with enough room to keep them from contacting the heat sink. Bad things happen when you bridge the pins of a voltage regulator...

 

[MichaelW]

For those following along, the heat sink I bought for the voltage regulator is pretty deep so I soldered some lengths of 18 gauge solid wire to the legs to extend them to the solder pads. If you do this make sure you bend the legs with enough room to keep them from contacting the heat sink. Bad things happen when you bridge the pins of a voltage regulator...

View attachment 40795

Where did you get the heatsinks? I better go check the ones I got....I haven't come close to starting this build yet so haven't looked to see if it would fit although they are allegedly made for TO-220 IC's.

Edit: These are the ones I got

 

[jhaneyzz]

From above:

Also, I purchased some really nice heat sinks for TO-220 size regulators on Amazon and they came the next day for like $6.50.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078ZXZ1GN?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1

looks like the same one's you bought.