Box 66

fig

fig

Village Idiot
I had to try quite a few gain/leakage combinations before striking tone gold with this one. I have no idea if it sounds similar to the original circuit...
...but frankly I don't care because it sounds exactly like I want it to. 😁

I put it in front of the Boneyard Compressor and it lit up. It cleans up nice and various guitar volume / level combos produce growl to grit.

I'll try to add some sound samples. I've been meaning to do that on these build reports anyway.

Tested with a Peak DCA55
Q1 - NKT275 = hFE 60 / Ic .096
Q2 = AC124S hFE 87 / Ic .169

This is my first attempt with any artwork, and definitely my first experience with acrylic paint. It was fun, but some refinement is sorely needed...

...maybe I'll label some control labels next? That's crazy talk.

IMG_4639 (1).jpeg IMG_4638.jpeg
 
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Looks awesome! Enclosure is way cool! Love those to-5 transistor sockets, I just picked some up myself.
 
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Looks fab, fig!

Speaking of sockets
Where do you get your little hockey-pucks from?

I've been trying to find the tiny ones for ages, as the regulation NHL ones are too big.
 
Feral Feline said:
Looks fab, fig!

Speaking of sockets
Where do you get your little hockey-pucks from?

I've been trying to find the tiny ones for ages, as the regulation NHL ones are too big.
Click to expand...
Thanks!

I get them from GuitarPCB (just ordered more thanks for the reminder). I use them habitually, mostly because I tinker with transistor gains and leakage, but a lot of times they cost more than the transistor!

They are for TO-3, but work well with TO-1....and work okay with TO-18 packages. For TO-92 (inline) , I have been searching for a better alternative than those snappy SIL-ly sockets. I agree with @music6000 on the use of those (but I do still use them).
 
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Robert said:
www.mouser.com

917-93-103-41-005000 Mill-Max | Mouser

917-93-103-41-005000 Mill-Max IC & Component Sockets TO-5 3PIN datasheet, inventory, & pricing.
www.mouser.com www.mouser.com
Click to expand...

That works for me! Thanks!

@fig — Barry stopped overseas-shipping of anything bulky (rotary switches, pre-bond wire etc), due to changes in USPS fee-structure.

I order from Small Bear sparingly as possible, the shipping charges absolutely kill all desire for the tempting little trinkets in the bear-cave.


For the inline transistor sockets, have you tried clipping 6-pin IC sockets in half?

F7020657-01.jpg


Or do you consider them no better than SIP-sockets?
 
@Feral Feline
Oh, that stinks..but makes sense.

I haven't tried that. I think if it were the spring type it would be secure...great thinking....I should look into getting one of them brain thingys one day! Until then, glad I am here amongst bonafide owners of said thingy.

Forgot to mention...I also socket in case I need to rob Peter and pay Paul. I toasted a OC140 the other day. Not a big deal, but this one was already matched to my BB build....so...I try to keep my Ge gains and leakages on a list, and I had one close enough in another build to use until I find another match (or fry this one too...it does have a rather distinct odor).
 
6_pin_socket_2.jpg

Spring ^ ?

I find them less secure than the friction-fit ones. I've never had a problem with SIP-sockets either for that matter.
Whatever works, the DIY mantra...

The worst thing about the springers is the flimsy little solder-legs, I feel like if I so much as breath on one it'll knock it clear off the board I'm working on.


If you find a good deal on brain-thingy, get two if you can — we can go halvers.
 
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fig said:
Thanks!

I get them from GuitarPCB (just ordered more thanks for the reminder). I use them habitually, mostly because I tinker with transistor gains and leakage, but a lot of times they cost more than the transistor!

They are for TO-3, but work well with TO-1....and work okay with TO-18 packages. For TO-92 (inline) , I have been searching for a better alternative than those snappy SIL-ly sockets. I agree with @music6000 on the use of those (but I do still use them).
Click to expand...

I’ve never had any luck getting them to work with smaller to-18 footprints and hate trying to get 3 loose sip pins to stay straight. Which is why I went full over the top and just ordered these custom pcbs and am gonna jam unhoused ic pins into them:

7B4D38E5-6870-4B3E-AEF6-4089D457B20A.png

Depending on the lead thickness you can use 3 pin female pin headers for to-92s: https://www.taydaelectronics.com/3-pin-2-54-mm-single-row-female-pin-header.html. Works great with to-220s. I’ve also started using them with right angle header pins on sot-23 smd breakout boards.

For keeping individual SIP sockets tidier I've also used matching double ended male header pins with one end placed into a breadboard and the other into the footprint but it's a little over the top sometimes even for me.
 
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Feral Feline said:
I find them less secure than the friction-fit ones. I've never had a problem with SIP-sockets either for that matter.
Whatever works, the DIY mantra...

The worst thing about the springers is the flimsy little solder-legs, I feel like if I so much as breath on one it'll knock it clear off the board I'm working on.
Click to expand...
Yeah, those. Agreed, the leads stink...but in a pull apart comparison...they win over the others (at least with that J201). :oops:
IMG_4665.jpeg
 
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