Breadboard Quality - Stick With Brand Name?

[Ginsly]

What's the consensus on breadboard quality? I'm just starting out, fwiw.

I can get a kit like this for cheap, and it seems to have everything I'd need for now: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0C1VDKPW2/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=A3FX7C4A9P37IQ

Then there's something like this, which is a brand name (BusBoard): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0040Z4QN8/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_4?smid=A2RKGEIGG4B1JT

With the second one I'd need to get jumpers and little jumper wires, which is not a huge deal. In that case I can shop around for (potentially) better jumpers. Worth it to spend twice as much? Or just get that full kit?

PS - do any of you use anti-static wristbands? I kind of assume not, but all of the warnings on my Mouser packages has me wondering!

 

[Diynot]

I don’t do a lot of breadboarding, but the one I have is a tiny RadioShack one from a decade (to more) ago. I think you would be plenty ok with the full kit one. Def nice that it comes with the jumpers. Treat it gently and you will get more than your $14 out of it and then upgrade (if needed) when it dies. As far as anti static…… I have handled a lot of CMOS chips since starting this hobby bare handed without issue. I like Fredrik’s (from Parasit studio pcbs) take “CMOS chips are very sensitive to static charges and can be easily damaged. It's a good idea to wear an anti-static wristband or at least avoid wearing a wool jumper and petting your cat/dog while building...”.

 

[synthesiserror]

I can't say I've ever bought a name brand breadboard, but the generic ones are hit-or-miss. Tayda usually has a pretty good deal on breadboarding stuff.

I live in the swamp, so ESD isn't much of a concern for me, especially with cheap semis. Definitely recommended if you're handling expensive computer hardware. Not so much if you're handling bargain bin op-amps.

 

[Ginsly]

@Diynot - Good to know, I was kinda leaning towards the kit. I'm in the middle of my first real "stock up", and although remaining funds are thin I don't wanna buy absolutely garbage! Ha.. Small risk in this case, seems like.

@synthesiserror - I realized I should probably get one RIGHT after my Tayda shipment arrived. Doh! I've bought some Allecin stuff from Amazon before and they seemed fine... I'll probably give it a go. Do bad ones just have dead areas I wonder? Wear out fast?

I asked about ESD since Chicago winters can be very dry and staticky. Plus, I have some carpet... Maybe as long as I touch metal first thing when I sit down to handle parts? Seems overkill to wear a wristband. I'd mostly be concerned about the pricier transistors, although I do have a couple ICs for a "Zapper"....

Thanks, both of you!

 

[synthesiserror]

I'll probably give it a go. Do bad ones just have dead areas I wonder? Wear out fast?

Sometimes they just don't grab leads convincingly. This is mainly a problem with thin leads on cheap resistors and crusty vintage components.

 

[Ginsly]

Sometimes they just don't grab leads convincingly. This is mainly a problem with thin leads on cheap resistors and crusty vintage components.

Ahhh ok. That sounds like a pretty bad problem to have, and has me thinking about the BusBoard one again... Hmm.

 

[Silver Blues]

Sometimes they just don't grab leads convincingly. This is mainly a problem with thin leads on cheap resistors and crusty vintage components.

Yeah I've been using the Tayda breadboards and have exactly this problem. They're cheap but not extremely high quality.

 

[Ginsly]

Yeah I've been using the Tayda breadboards and have exactly this problem. They're cheap but not extremely high quality.

Hmm. This BusBoard one might be the better bet after all... Is this size big enough for the relatively simple fuzz circuits I'll be monkeying with, you think?

 

[Silver Blues]

I'd say so! You can get a lot of mileage out of a board like that. You can definitely build Electras and all manner of classic transistor fuzzes on something like that to your heart's content.

 

[finebyfine]

I have a few busboards and a few from global specialities (similar price point). they're worth the price, easily. I thought I hated breadboarding, turns out I just hated using crappy ones. I'm sure decent cheap ones can be found but I haven't found them yet.

 

[DailyDovetails]

Hmm. This BusBoard one might be the better bet after all... Is this size big enough for the relatively simple fuzz circuits I'll be monkeying with, you think?
View attachment 63812

Sometimes its nice to have a couple bread boards. I like to build it once and space everything kind of far apart and then once I have a feel for the circuit down rebuild it more compact. Sometimes you get luck and can build a lot of the power supply on the rail or onto only a few of the crosses on the board. If you get the layouts compact you can transfer them over to a permanent breadboard even.


This is a RAT I build onto the first 14 slots of the breadboard, a few of the crosses are unused even.

The Buss boards are good quality. I have a few of the 30 row ones but should probably buy a 60 at some point.

 

[traumprinz]

A breadboard half the size of that one would probably be plenty for any simple-ish fuzz circuit. Nothing wrong with going larger though. Better than having one smaller than you need. I use 3M breadboards these days which are very expensive compared to most but they are fantastic. They might grip too tightly for some people's tastes but nothing is coming loose from those unless you want them to.

I'd suggest getting an inexpensive one first and making sure you get enough use out of it before springing for an expensive one though (and even then it's probably overkill for most). But the quality of the 3M ones is top notch.

 

[Ginsly]

Thanks everybody! The BusBoard I posted above should last me a while, and I see no reason to skimp - seems like that may turn me off to breadboarding altogether if I get a wonky one. 3M looks fantastic, but I think the BusBoard is gonna get the job done.

Silly question, but - I obviously need jumpers like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07Z4W6V6R/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A2WJA7K6T25FU0

Do I also need jumpers like this, or can I just use the longer ones in the pack above?: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09FNXKXDW/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A14FP9XIRL6C1F

That second pack has Male/Male, Male/Female, and Female/Female wires - overkill? Seems like I'd really only need Male/Male, although I suppose I could use the M/F ones to connect things like pots that I don't want to jam into the breadboard...

 

[Erik S]

I’m planning to add some of those plastic-ended jumpers and some more breadboards to my next tayda order. No idea idea on quality yet, but they’re cheap enough.

 

[finebyfine]

Thanks everybody! The BusBoard I posted above should last me a while, and I see no reason to skimp - seems like that may turn me off to breadboarding altogether if I get a wonky one. 3M looks fantastic, but I think the BusBoard is gonna get the job done.

Silly question, but - I obviously need jumpers like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07Z4W6V6R/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A2WJA7K6T25FU0

Do I also need jumpers like this, or can I just use the longer ones in the pack above?: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09FNXKXDW/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A14FP9XIRL6C1F

That second pack has Male/Male, Male/Female, and Female/Female wires - overkill? Seems like I'd really only need Male/Male, although I suppose I could use the M/F ones to connect things like pots that I don't want to jam into the breadboard...

I personally prefer using ones like the first link for most of my breadboarding, but I like having options and I think it’s really just a matter of personal preference (other than connecting offboard components), the plastic ended jumpers are usually easier to work with but the bare ones cut to common breadboard lengths are easier to keep tidy (for me anyway). I imagine you’ll quickly find which you prefer for how you work.

 

[JTEX]

As far as anti static…… I have handled a lot of CMOS chips since starting this hobby bare handed without issue. I like Fredrik’s (from Parasit studio pcbs) take “CMOS chips are very sensitive to static charges and can be easily damaged. It's a good idea to wear an anti-static wristband or at least avoid wearing a wool jumper and petting your cat/dog while building...”.

I have also handled lots of them, and definitely fried some by electrostatic discharge. Including finished goods containing them. So did at least one customer. Be safe and at the very least discharge yourself before handling. Especially if you're in a dry climate.

Damage can also be subtle, non-catastrophic, but pushing a chip way out of specs or causing later premature failure.

 

[jwin615]

Go with the bus board
Buy once cry once, at at $8, maybe just a little sniffle.
As for ESD, it's very real, especially in dry cold Chicago. Wristbands are kind of tedious. You can use bother means. I have a long 2 inch strip of aluminum that I'm going to tack down to the edge of the bench(after I take the time to round the edges). Attach that to ground and away we go.

 

[Ginsly]

I have a long 2 inch strip of aluminum that I'm going to tack down to the edge of the bench(after I take the time to round the edges). Attach that to ground and away we go.

The strip is on the front edge so that your arm will kind of always rest on it? Is that what you mean? And how would you attach it to ground? This seems like a less annoying solution than a wristband (I HATE wearing watches! Ha). Definitely going with the Busboard.

the bare ones cut to common breadboard lengths are easier to keep tidy

That's kind of what I was thinking, and I'd rather just get one or the other for now. Think I might just get the non-plastic-ended wire lengths and see if there's a need down the line.

 

[Silver Blues]

I'd get both - I use the flywire ones frequently (they're good for getting around big components or making connections that you expect to plug and unplug a lot, or to bridge sections that are spaced far apart if you're prototyping large circuits).

 

[jwin615]

The strip is on the front edge so that your arm will kind of always rest on it? Is that what you mean? And how would you attach it to ground? This seems like a less annoying solution than a wristband (I HATE wearing watches! Ha). Definitely going with the Busboard.

That's kind of what I was thinking, and I'd rather just get one or the other for now. Think I might just get the non-plastic-ended wire lengths and see if there's a need down the line.

Yep. That's the idea. And no reason to be constantly attached. Just when needed. I've worked around electronics for going on a decade so pretty keen on when to ground.
I'll probably connect it to the big metal power strip under the bench to. It's chassis is(should be) grounded.
With anything ESD, pads, wristbands, whatever, you have to connect to earth ground for them to work. Many wristbands are.meant to attach to a pad, which has a wire to go to ground, commonly with a spade connector at the other end that goes on to the faceplate mounting screw for a wall socket(but chack continuity)
Those wireless esd bands are a load of crap. There's a diode inside the one I saw. That's it. Electrons don't work like that. You have to attach to ground.

Another thing to note, with the band of metal approach, you need to wire a small value low wattage resistor between it and ground. This will hopefully add protection in the event that you are grounded and come in contact with high voltage AC. It should act as a fuse. These are built into the good wristbands. I think something as small as 1/8w 100ohm will do. I'll have to look up the actual value used though.