Breadboarding Seabed Delay
- Thread starter jdduffield
- Start date
Brett
Well-known member
I don't think C20 is reversed, cathode of D1 goes to row 58 of the breadboard with R18 between BB rows 58 and 60.
This may (or may not) be a good opportunity to remind the OP that the pins of those 16mm potentiometers will prematurely wear out the sockets on your breadboard. Some screw terminals or flying leads may save you a little headache later on.
jdduffield
Active member
Sorry for the delayed reply. Had to work late. The electro is not backwards … I just verified it.
jdduffield
Active member
With one pin connected to ground…
I just did a beep test and both sides of that resistor do beep when the other pin touches it, yes. That is what is expected, correct?
Also, I confirmed that the diode right before it only beeps on the one leg (negative), as it should.
jdduffield
Active member
Nostradoomus
Well-known member
None of those should beep in relation to ground, you have a short somewhere for sure. You should really make use of the +/- rails on the breadboard.
Brett
Well-known member
No, neither side of R18 should show connection to ground. As @Nostradoomus said, I'd reorganize the breadboard to utilize your power rails for better organization. You can add a jumper at the top or bottom across the breadboard to connect those rails to each side.
Since you have continuity with ground on R18, you'll need to figure out where your short is. Start by isolating the power section by pulling IC3 and IC1. If R18 still connects to ground, your problem is somewhere in the power section. If you don't show a connection to ground after lifting those IC's, put IC3 back in place and check again. If R18 has continuity with ground after putting IC3 back in place, you may want to double check that your connections at and around IC3 are correct.
Feral Feline
Well-known member
Here's another breadboard tip:
Don't jam your pots directly into the breadboard, you'll wear out the breadboard in no time.
Pot legs are slightly oversized and the wrong shape for what a breadboard is designed for.
There are various methods to connect a pot to the breadboard; search the forum to find them and decide which method you like.
For me, the easiest is to use male-female jumpers:
Don't jam your pots directly into the breadboard, you'll wear out the breadboard in no time.
Pot legs are slightly oversized and the wrong shape for what a breadboard is designed for.
There are various methods to connect a pot to the breadboard; search the forum to find them and decide which method you like.
For me, the easiest is to use male-female jumpers:
jdduffield
Active member
The issue is in the power section. I haven’t found it yet, and need to ask an ignorant question… wouldn’t it find its way to ground one of these two ways? (I’m still new at this and trying to understand why the continuity test from R18 to ground would fail.)
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Brett
Well-known member
The only way to learn is to practice.
As much as you probably don't want to hear this, I think it's worth trying to better organize your breadboard so it's easier to see exactly where nets are connected. Pin 2 of IC3 should connect to ground. Looking at all of the images you've shared, I still cannot clearly tell where ground is on your breadboard. If you stick to using the breadboard's built in power rails and try to only make ground connections and power connections directly to those, it'll be much easier for you to decipher where you may have a problem.
I'd start by getting your power section right first. It'll be easiest and it's very easy to test if it's working as expected. After assembling your power section, IC3 should have the following:
Pin 1: 5V
Pin 2: Ground
Pin 3: ~Same or very close to input voltage
Not to seem condescending (I know you're new to this and I'm just trying to help), the pinout for a standard 78L05 regulator is as follows:
The positive side of C21 should be one half the voltage at IC3 pin 3.
Edit to clarify: At this stage, I'd want to make sure that my power section was isolated and correct before making any other connections just to prevent possible damage to the ICs or anything.
jdduffield
Active member
I didn’t know that. I tested it and sure enough, no beep if passing through just those resistors. For some reason I thought since resistors limit the energy passing through I’d still get a beep (since it doesn’t fully block the energy). Thank you.
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jdduffield
Active member
I actually appreciate the advice very much. I had to research the pinout even before this reply because I don’t have a tool that tells me the pinout. I still had some trouble as some datasheets made it look reversed even for the same part number. I went directly to my order details from Tayda to look that up and I think it is correctly oriented.
As for the rails, I’ll definitely deconstruct it and try again, making use of the rails. I mistakenly thought that “power filtering” meant cleaning the power before it even gets to the rails, and when I later realized that the positive gets split and sent to various IC legs but not the rails, I was like “oops” but at the point of no return in my mind.
